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08-10-2010, 04:45 PM
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Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: Schaumburg, IL
Posts: 2,053
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Email I recieved from ECI
Mr. Phillips,
ECI is always concerned when notified of any type of failure that involves our product. The issue with the retainer clip is being thoroughly investigated by ECI and we are in the process of deciding what the best course of action will be. Currently we are using OEM parts until this issue is resolved.
We are very sorry that you have experienced this problem and will be happy to send you new parts at no charge. These will be sent on Sales Order 103763 to the address you have listed. ECI appreciates your patronage and we hope to work through this issue to our customer?s satisfaction. Please let me know if you have any questions.
Thank You,
Tara Molyneux
Warranty Administrator
Engine Components, Inc
9503 Middlex
San Antonio, TX 78217
877-820-8101 ext. 115
Fax: 210-820-8102
Office Hours: M-F 12:00pm-5:00pm
__________________
Tony Phillips
N524AP, RV 9 (tail wheel)
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08-10-2010, 04:59 PM
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Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: Schaumburg, IL
Posts: 2,053
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Quote:
Originally Posted by az_gila
Lycoming is quite specific about not using a magnet on the tappets...
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Gil,
Another peeve I have. Good luck using a 40 year old document to overhaul your engine. It sucks!
Here's the quote from the Lycoming OH manual on dis-assembly:
"5-13. Hydraulic Lifters. Remove the hydraulic lifter from
the crankcase. Place each lifter as removed from
crankcase in its proper location in the cleaning basket.
The hydraulic lifters must be replaced in the same location
in crankcase from which they were removed."
Superior gives you more info:
(5) Remove and disassemble the hydraulic lifter assembly.
CAUTION: MAINTAIN THE PARTS OF EACH TAPPET ASSEMBLY
(a) Using hydraulic tappet tool, remove the pushrod socket (30, Figure 72-00-09.15) by placing heavy grease on ball end of the "T". By inserting the ball end in the tappet and withdrawing, the socket will adhere to the grease.
(b) Using the hollow end of the tool, push it over the plunger and withdraw the plunger. If the tool is not available, remove the pushrod socket with fingers or by using needle nose pliers. Insert a piece of wire bent at a right angle into the plunger between the plunger and the lifter body. Turn 90 degrees to engage a coil of spring and draw out the plunger assembly.
I saw nothing about not using a magnet. I tried using a prick and it was hydraulic locked so I called my A&P IA friend and he told me to use the magnet. Makes sense though that you could magnetize the tappets with the magnet. I am not sure what that would do, but good info none the less.
__________________
Tony Phillips
N524AP, RV 9 (tail wheel)
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08-10-2010, 05:27 PM
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Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: 57AZ - NW Tucson area
Posts: 10,011
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No.. only 8 years old....
...on the Lycoming Direct Drive Engine Overhaul Manual.
Part No. 80294-7 revised up to June 2002.
A note between Sections 6-16 and 6-17...
CAUTION
Do not use a magnet to remove the socket
or plunger assembly from the engine as it
could cause the ball to remain off its seat
making the unit inoperative.
Sounds pretty clear to me...
My Lycoming version has essentially the same text you quote from Superior, but is Section 6-17
Perhaps your Lycoming version has not been updated?
6-17. HYDRAULIC TAPPET PLUNGERS. (Where ap-
plicable) Using hydraulic tappet tool (64941), remove
the push rod socket by placing heavy grease on ball end
of ?T' inserting the ball end in socket and withdrawing,
the socket will adhere to the grease. Using the hollow
end of the tool pushing it over the plunger and withdrawing
the hydraulic tappet plunger. In the event the
hydraulic tappet tool is not available, remove the push
rod sockets with fingers or by using a pair of needlenose
pliers. (See figure 6-7). Bend a right angle in one
end of a piece of wire and insert this end into the space
between the plunger assembly and the tappet body. Turn
the wire 90" to engage a coil of the spring and draw out
the hydraulic tappet plunger assembly as shown in figure
6-8.
Quote:
Originally Posted by apkp777
Gil,
Another peeve I have. Good luck using a 40 year old document to overhaul your engine. It sucks!
Here's the quote from the Lycoming OH manual on dis-assembly:
"5-13. Hydraulic Lifters. Remove the hydraulic lifter from
the crankcase. Place each lifter as removed from
crankcase in its proper location in the cleaning basket.
The hydraulic lifters must be replaced in the same location
in crankcase from which they were removed."
Superior gives you more info:
(5) Remove and disassemble the hydraulic lifter assembly.
CAUTION: MAINTAIN THE PARTS OF EACH TAPPET ASSEMBLY
(a) Using hydraulic tappet tool, remove the pushrod socket (30, Figure 72-00-09.15) by placing heavy grease on ball end of the "T". By inserting the ball end in the tappet and withdrawing, the socket will adhere to the grease.
(b) Using the hollow end of the tool, push it over the plunger and withdraw the plunger. If the tool is not available, remove the pushrod socket with fingers or by using needle nose pliers. Insert a piece of wire bent at a right angle into the plunger between the plunger and the lifter body. Turn 90 degrees to engage a coil of spring and draw out the plunger assembly.
I saw nothing about not using a magnet. I tried using a prick and it was hydraulic locked so I called my A&P IA friend and he told me to use the magnet. Makes sense though that you could magnetize the tappets with the magnet. I am not sure what that would do, but good info none the less.
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__________________
Gil Alexander
EAA Technical Counselor, Airframe Mechanic
Half completed RV-10 QB purchased
RV-6A N61GX - finally flying
Grumman Tiger N12GA - flying
La Cholla Airpark (57AZ) Tucson AZ
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08-10-2010, 07:20 PM
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Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: Schaumburg, IL
Posts: 2,053
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Quote:
Originally Posted by az_gila
...on the Lycoming Direct Drive Engine Overhaul Manual.
Part No. 80294-7 revised up to June 2002.
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I have OH manual 60294-7 published in 1979 (31 years old) revisions up to June 2002. I quoted from the series 76 manual. My mistake. I will check to make sure my tappet isn't magnetized.
In any case, don't use a magnet to remove the tappets.
__________________
Tony Phillips
N524AP, RV 9 (tail wheel)
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08-15-2010, 08:04 PM
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Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: Schaumburg, IL
Posts: 2,053
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Replace the 3 remaining push rod tube retainers. Here's a picture of my (4) ECI retainers.
 [/IMG]
__________________
Tony Phillips
N524AP, RV 9 (tail wheel)
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08-15-2010, 08:13 PM
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Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: Round Rock, TX
Posts: 3,778
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Yep...
just what I suspected, put the washers under the retainer and this will not happen. BTW... I confirmed this with a Lycoming/ECI engine builder yesterday.
__________________
Reiley
Retired N622DR - Serial #V7A1467
VAF# 671
Repeat Offender / Race 007
Friend of the RV-1
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08-15-2010, 08:14 PM
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Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: SC
Posts: 12,887
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Careful how you order replacement parts.
I called A.E.R.O. last week, told them I had an ECi engine and that there was a problem with these springs and I wanted to order new ones.
Guess what they sent me...
Four new ECi springs. Duh...
I'll be ordering a second set of non-ECi springs on Monday.
__________________
Bill R.
RV-9 (Yes, it's a dragon tail)
O-360 w/ dual P-mags
Build the plane you want, not the plane others want you to build!
SC86 - Easley, SC
www.repucci.com/bill/baf.html
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08-15-2010, 08:19 PM
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Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: Schaumburg, IL
Posts: 2,053
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Quote:
Originally Posted by N941WR
Careful how you order replacement parts.
I called A.E.R.O. last week, told them I had an ECi engine and that there was a problem with these springs and I wanted to order new ones.
Guess what they sent me...
Four new ECi springs. Duh...
I'll be ordering a second set of non-ECi springs on Monday.
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They sent me a set of Superior retainers. On another note, I was able to fly today after a week and a half of maintenance. Boy, it's dreadful having flown, then to have to spend a week working on it. Bill, I don't know how you do it.
__________________
Tony Phillips
N524AP, RV 9 (tail wheel)
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08-15-2010, 08:26 PM
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Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: Round Rock, TX
Posts: 3,778
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You know... before you start spaming letters out to the FAA, ECI etc... maybe some basic research could be done. This is Common Knowledge (Common Sense). As stated before, Lycoming retainers will break if not shimmed and under this kind of bind, it has happened many times.
__________________
Reiley
Retired N622DR - Serial #V7A1467
VAF# 671
Repeat Offender / Race 007
Friend of the RV-1
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08-15-2010, 08:39 PM
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Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: Round Rock, TX
Posts: 3,778
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I Must...
give a hint... If you know how much these cylinders/heads just on Parallel valve engine move, you would probably quit flying. Let's not go into Angle valve engines. Check it out, YOU will be amazed.
__________________
Reiley
Retired N622DR - Serial #V7A1467
VAF# 671
Repeat Offender / Race 007
Friend of the RV-1
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