My 2nd rudder gust damaged

[Bob Axsom]

I originally had the one side 1/8" "U" wire and saw the compression failure as mentioned earlier. Duplicating the 1/8" "U" lock on both sides solved the problem simply and cleanly - as mentioned earlier. No more problems in 6 years. Just make sure you pull them before takeoff or you will not be able to move the rudder from the cockpit - it is that solid.

Bob Axsom

[Deems Davis]

Originally Posted by Mike S

Can you make another lock for the opposite side???

Your link appears to be failing in compression mode, having a second one that is in tension may make all the difference you need

I had a similar problem , and solved it by placing a mirror copy on the other side. Bending the U channel really isn't that hard, and once both are installed, they are rock solid. Previous to this I had installed a telescoping brace that supposedly locked the rudder pedals. that was a waste of time.

[Snowflake]

FWIW, I have a rocket link connecting my tailwheel to my rudder. With the tailwheel steering arm in the detent, it locks the rudder in place quite well. At least, I haven't been in a situation yet where the rudder has unlocked due to wind gusts around the plane while parked.

[Bavafa]

I am using a steel hinge pin on both side and it has held in pretty good wind with no movement. If I put only one side then the back and forth movement of the rudder pulls the pin a bit up and could see it easily bending. I think you will have a much better luck if put the U shape pin on both side.

[flion]

I've got a similar gust lock and noticed how weak it seems, even though it is 1/8" music wire. Engaging my brain, I realized the problem is the long vertical moment to the bends is allowing the rudder to exert more leverage than desired. So, I am wavering between two fixes: bending a new gust lock that lies flush on top of the rudder horn and stop (minimum vertical bending moment) or adding a spacer of bar stock to the existing lock so that the force from the rudder cannot compress or spread the "U". I'm leaning toward the latter because it's easier to fabricate the bar stock spacer than bend and cut music wire. In any case, I can't really test it until I get the plane back in flying condition but I'll report on my results, with pictures, when I do.

[TOAD]

If you have a nose wheel, the rudder will be out of reach to put these things in. They are nice for elevator and ailerons.

[terrye]

The 3/16" wire clip on the control horn is an elegant solution, but apparently not up to the loads imposed by high winds.

I made some gust locks for my C-150 (RV-9A still being built) which might work better as long as there is a mass balance horn on the control surface which there are on RV-9As. The locks were made out of two .090 aluminum plates about 4" diameter with some 1/2" closed cell foam (from a backpack mattress) glued on the inside face. An 1/8" rod threaded on each end, with a piece of heat shrink in the middle to protect the control surfaces, connects the two plates together with a wingnut (or an over center clamp) for adjustment. The rod is slipped into the gap between the end of the mass balance horn and the fin (or horizontal stabilizer in the case of the elevators) and the wingnut tightened.

I believe this is better than locking the rudder pedals together as the rudder cables are not constantly being loaded by the wind gusts.

Sorry no pix.

[arunnells]

I purchased one of these Air Gizmo Rudder Gust locks at Oshkosh 2009, thought I would replace my home made one, ended up denting my RV-6 rudder at Oshkosh. The pressure exerted by closing the web type clamp dented the rudder. I had applied it with just enough force to prevent it from being loose, but due to the plastic clamp being straight and the rudder being angled, it just didn't work.

Very upsetting, I went back to the clamp I made from foam, scrap wood and a long bolt with wing nut. This one wears off the paint on the top of the rudder edge and also caused another dent when ramp people moved my plane without removing the rudder gust lock. I also have the Rocket steering link which I think locks the rudder pretty well if it is left straight, it just moves back and forth a bit against the internal springs in wind gusts, which may actually be good, not sure. But I definitely wouldn't buy the Air Gizmo one for a tapered aluminum control surface again.

[TroyBranch]

I have experience with both the airgizmos and the Gust off Lock. On the RV10 the Gust off compressed due to strong winds while in Vegas and it puts a lot of load on the bolt that supports the brake. I spun the bolt to make sure it was still straight and it was. I can't imaging how much force was on the brake bolt to allow it to compress. Fortunately the wind stayed in the same direction and the rudder stayed put. It was one heck of a wind in May, close to 50kts peak gusts and tail in. No help there. You locals said it got windy down there I had One airgizmos on the elevator and it to blew off. Fortunatley the elevator stayed down. All the planes were really twisted in the chain tie downs. I have small ones that hold the ailerons that I made, I now put one airgizmo per elevator side and then I pull the tail down and put one on the rudder if there is any chance of high winds. I just use the gust off for short stays. No dents from the airgizmos and this set up has worked so far, the 10 elevator is real big and one argizmo is just not enough if the winds really get howling. Pulling the tail down is a pain but it helps me sleep while the plane is outside on trips. My plane loves its hanger

[Peetie the Pilot]

Ted
I had a similar thing happen to me and how I fixed it was rather simple. I made another "U" shaped Stainless Steel Rod from 3/16 diameter material. Then I threaded the ends 10/32 for 1"long. I made a spacer bar from UHMW material 1/4 thick X 1" wide X 4" long. I drilled two 3/16 diam. holes in the UHMW with the same center distance as the "U" shaped part is wide. I also welded two washers on the U rod and spaced the washers 3/4" from each other so the rod will sit flat on top of the rudder horn and stop. There is approx. 3/4" diff. between the horn and the stop in height. You just put the NEW rudder lock on the same way but add the UHMW spacer UNDERNEATH and two wing nuts screwed on from underneath and the rudder lock now cannot spread inwards and outwards. My rudder has had 55 mph winds push on it and it stays put. Hope this helps.

Peter