prop governor oil line routing (6A, 7A will be the same)

C-GRVT · #1 06-06-2010, 11:43 AM

I am just about to mount my engine (Aerosport IO-360 vertical induction) which has installed a rear mounted PCU5000 governor.
I would be grateful for help in determining the proper routing for the governor hose, and the orientation of the 45 degree fitting (already installed) for the hose in the governor pad.
I think that orienting the fitting will be much easier to do before the engine is on the mount.
The engine came with the governor already installed, and an installed Aeroquip hose ((AF466), running from the governor pad to the front of the engine.
As I hoisted the engine into position, it seems clear that the routing of the governor hose will be a problem at the governor end.
The 45 degree fitting on the governor pad is pointing back and up toward the right top corner of the firewall (actually to the centre of the firewall mounted battery box). The result is that the hose loops towards the battery box (it will touch it if installed this way).
The hose comes with two adel clamps. It seems probable that these are intended to attach to sump bolts, running the hose alongside the block under the intakes, but the hose is sufficiently large that it will interfere with the two aluminum tubes that run from the heads to the block above the intake tubes and attached at the block with hose and clamps if it is run along the side of the block.
Any thoughts or photos on how to orient the 45 degree fitting at the governor and how to route and mount the hose?
Thanks,
Bill Brooks
Ottawa, ON
engine on hoist, ready to be mounted - stuck!

az_gila · #2 06-06-2010, 12:19 PM

...with pictures....

http://www.lycoming.textron.com/supp...dfs/SI1435.pdf

Lars · #3 06-06-2010, 12:45 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by az_gila

...with pictures....

http://www.lycoming.textron.com/supp...dfs/SI1435.pdf

How timely. Was planning to deal with this myself this afternoon. Thanks for the link!

C-GRVT · #4 06-06-2010, 12:58 PM

Gil,
that does indeed help!
I can see this is going to be a steep (but educational) learning curve.
Next question! The fitting coming out of the governor mount is a 45 degree steel fitting, with a nut, washer and rubber o-ring (in that order) on the engine side of the fitting.
How does that get tightened into the engine?
If I back off the nut all the way possible and tighten the fitting by hand against the o-ring, the orientation is wrong. Any more seems like it will crush the o-ring. I can do it less, and tighten the nut against the washer and o-ring, but that leaves the fitting loose (able to be turned by hand in the pad) so that can't be right.
Is the nut just to snug the o-ring against the 45 degree chamfer on the threaded hole? if so, does one apply just enough torque to compress the o-ring?I've never seen a fitting like this before.
Bill Brooks
Ottawa, Canada,
engine hanging on the hoist

az_gila · #5 06-06-2010, 02:03 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by C-GRVT

Gil,
that does indeed help!
....If I back off the nut all the way possible and tighten the fitting by hand against the o-ring, the orientation is wrong. Any more seems like it will crush the o-ring. I can do it less, and tighten the nut against the washer and o-ring, but that leaves the fitting loose (able to be turned by hand in the pad) so that can't be right.
.....
Bill Brooks
Ottawa, Canada,
engine hanging on the hoist

..the O-ring. If it's the correct size O-ring it will just be forced down into the 45 degree bevelled area you mention.

Think of the nut as a lock nut...

C-GRVT · #6 06-06-2010, 03:23 PM

Got it - thanks.
A real time update - I've got three of four engine bolts in - just starting the fourth, so far so good.
For those of you who have a Superior engine, and have the Avery Engine mount installment pins, don't try to use even the short pin on the lower right mount - even though the instructions say use the shorter pin to avoid interfering with the oil dip stick casting, it still interferes and can't be used.
Didn't seem necessary anyway - I found I could get the third (lower right) mounting bolt in by loosening the top two (already installed) bolts, and pulling up on the engine with the hoist (effectively tilting the engine up) and opening the gap a bit between the engine and mount.
hope the fourth cooperates as well.
Oh, and it is possible to do it alone (so far).
Bill Brooks
Ottawa Canada
engine (almost) in

Lars · #7 06-16-2010, 05:35 PM

Like Bill, I have a vertical draft (not that it matters) IO-360. Superior supplied my engine with an Aeroquip firesleeved governor hose and a couple of Adel clamps.

After staring and futzing for some time, I don't see a clean way to secure the hose using a routing under cylinders 1 & 3, let alone getting it through the #1 baffling once I get to that point. It's big and ungainly, and wants to interfere with the oil return tubes under the cylinders and eventually no doubt, the baffle tensioning rods once I install those.

Does anyone have a photo of a governor hose (not hard line) installation?

Another option I'm considering is going up and over, then through the aft wall of the #3 baffling and down to the governor. That actually seems to me to be a much cleaner/easier installation, possibly using Adel clamps at a couple of the top case bolts. Any compelling reason not to do so?

Thanks!

C-GRVT · #8 06-16-2010, 11:53 PM

Like Lars, I find the hose bulky. If one tries to fit it like the Lycoming manual suggests, with two adel clamps along the sump, the hose (being much bulkier than the stainless steel line) won't clear the oil return lines, is left with a fairly large unsupported loop through the engine mount and perhaps at the front as well, depending on clamp location, and is either bent at quite a tight radius at the front, or the adel clamps have to go almost side by side along the sump, as unlike the hard line, the hose does not easily follow the sump contour as it narrows towards the front.
I'm thinking of getting a stainless line instead, but the hose is supplied, Lycoming says a hose is OK - but how is it run and how is it clamped to the engine?
Bill Brooks
Ottawa, Canada
RV-6A finishing

az_gila · #9 06-17-2010, 12:34 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by C-GRVT

Like Lars, I find the hose bulky. If one tries to fit it like the Lycoming manual suggests, with two adel clamps along the sump, the hose (being much bulkier than the stainless steel line) won't clear the oil return lines, is left with a fairly large unsupported loop through the engine mount and perhaps at the front as well, depending on clamp location, and is either bent at quite a tight radius at the front, or the adel clamps have to go almost side by side along the sump, as unlike the hard line, the hose does not easily follow the sump contour as it narrows towards the front.
I'm thinking of getting a stainless line instead, but the hose is supplied, Lycoming says a hose is OK - but how is it run and how is it clamped to the engine?
Bill Brooks
Ottawa, Canada
RV-6A finishing

...that the hose specified by Lycoming (TSO-C53A Type D) is the integral firesleeve teflon hose (usually brown?), and would be a much smaller diameter than a hose with the red slide-on fire sleeve.

Richard Connell · #10 06-17-2010, 04:12 AM

Hi Bill and Lars,
I too have an Aerosport IO360 M1B.
it was also supplied with the flex line and adel clamps .
I could never satisfy myself trying to route it adequately.
In the end, Bart shipped me a S/S line to replace it. Perfect.
I cant think of any reason the flex line would be superior to the s/s part.
cheers
Richard
RV-7 Sydney Aus.