DecalPro Pireps?

[russd]

Dan, I had pretty much the same experience with DecalPro as others. Like many tasks in this airplane building project, there's a learning curve but I'm pretty happy with the end result. I liked the ability to create icons to use instead of text for some things.

I wanted a satin finish on my panel and preferred no clear coat if possible. I also felt white letters would look better on the dark gray paint (and be easier for older eyes to see). Even so, my first attempt was laser water slide decals. They looked okay but were black and did not stick to the finish I had sprayed. Maybe not all water slide decal papers are created equal. If they had stuck, I would have had to clear coat them anyway.

I still have a piece of scrap aluminum, with paint, and with one of my practice decals. I'll drop it in the mail if you want to see what they look like. You can take a fingernail or whatever to the letters to get an idea of how well they stick.

Send me a PM if interested.

Russ

[rvmills]

Dan,

I went a slightly different route, though gotta agree with you that "Nemo"'s work sure does look nice!

Not sure if you still have bare metal or have already painted the base coat, and the method I used may work with paint or powdercoating, so FWIW...

I was doing a panel upgrade and making overlays on the old panel skeleton, so I had 3 flat sheets of .090 AL to work with. After cutting, we had them powdercoated light gray, then had the letters laser etched by a woman that does trophy and award placards. She taped the area with blue masking tape, then cut the letters through the tape. We then masked off the rest of the panel, leaving the blue tape on and leaving only the letters exposed, and we used rattle can black for the letters. Same could be done with white letters on gray or dark panels. Pics:





Pros: Professional look, durable (letter paint is down in the etching, won't rub off).

Cons: Changes not easy. I'd either have to cover the current lettering with a placard overlay (similar material to the N# placard in the first photo) or cut new metal and do it over. I figure if I'm gonna change things its gonna be bigger stuff, ie, to add a Dynon EMS to the right side or similar, so it'll be new metal on that side. I've added a couple cbs to a drop-down subpanel (for the new EI, etc), so I've been able to avoid changes to the panel so far (1.5 yrs). But that's why I did three panel overlays (left, right and switches)...just in case! If your panel is one piece, more flexibility may be important, but this could still work.

A couple guys on the field are using the same guy I did, but are doing removable/replaceable placards to go over the powdercoated base. They are not done yet, so no pics to share. However, I'll bet a good trophy shop or engraver could use anodized AL in just about any color that would complement your panel color.

Good luck, and looking forward to seeing how it turns out (my guess is many of us will be jealous!! )

Cheers,
Bob

[Bill Wightman]

Dan, here's the best pic I have showing my DecalPro markings. Note the CB subpanel mounted on the bottom of the main instrument panel is done in white. I cleared over that, because the white markings didn't seem as durable as the black ones did:



The DecalPro markings are sharp as a tack, but probably lack the durability of anything laser etched, or routed in plastic. At any rate, they seem good enough for use where repeated handling isn't expected.

Another experiment I'm going to try is to mark my Infinity stick grips with the DecalPro system - in white - and spray a clear epoxy layer over them. If the epoxy hangs on, I'll have some very neat markings for the stick grips. We'll see...

[DanH]

Boy oh boy.....some beautiful panels out there. All of you should be proud.

I've decided to go with water slide decals under automotive clear. The panel is an off-white so dark lettering is fine, and I have no graphics. Actually I don't have much of anything. This is a simple VFR glass setup with fuse blocks, so the main panel only has eight switches and three buttons to label.

I'm told the decals work fine with PPG clear, so here's the plan. I'll shoot base, apply the decals, then shoot three coats of 2021 to bury them. When cured I'll wet sand to flatten any trace of the decal outline and shoot another coat of PPG matte clear. The result should have depth matching the rest of the airplane (which is also base/clear) and be very durable. We'll see.

[William Slaughter]

Originally Posted by DanH

I've decided to go with water slide decals under automotive clear.

Order the Microscale MicroSet and MicroSol products. You won't be disappointed.

[schristo@mac.com]

the decalpro system is okay... the results are pretty good but as others have said, the learning curve is high, the frustration is high, and the amount of time to produce and place acceptable results is high... yikes.

[RONSIM]

I tried the DecalPro labeling for the RV-10, but my level of "patience" is quite low (ask my hangar partner). Anyway, would be willing to send my kit (films, etc.) to anyone who would want them, free --- I will hang on to the laminator and heat gun, but the film package was about $80.00. Just send me your shipping address and I will get it in the mail to you.

Ron Simonton

[cln1owner]

Originally Posted by RONSIM

I tried the DecalPro labeling for the RV-10, but my level of "patience" is quite low (ask my hangar partner). Anyway, would be willing to send my kit (films, etc.) to anyone who would want them, free --- I will hang on to the laminator and heat gun, but the film package was about $80.00. Just send me your shipping address and I will get it in the mail to you.

Ron Simonton

PM Sent Ron...

[DanH]

Some followup....

Stein can print a decal sheet in any color using your artwork, meaning you can control font, size, spacing and design. Just send a file with an exact representation of what you want on the decal page.

The panel was primed, shot with the PPG DBC, then one good coat of standard DCU2021 clear. When cured it was block sanded with 800 wet to flatten the surface and eliminate any trash.

After applying the decals I sprayed 5 light coats of PPG DCU2060, a flat clear, just the thing for a non-glare panel:

https://buyat.ppg.com/refinishProduc...b-cb8b9da7f393

The idea is to bury the decals in clearcoat. No hardship shooting flat clear at 30 minute intervals since I was spraying base and gloss clear on wingtips that day anyway....just mixed some and shot it through an extra trim gun.

The cured 2060 was blocked with 800 to thin the clear over the decals and blend in any "raised" look, then it got one more good coat of flat clear.

[9GT]

I am at that point and have decided to label my panel using the DecalPro. Can anyone recommend a simple CAD program to use for this or is word processing the way to go? I am somewhat computer challenged so it needs to be EZ. Thanks!