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03-23-2010, 07:52 AM
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Join Date: Oct 2006
Location: Seattle, wa
Posts: 679
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Big difference on mine; Bendix RSA-5. I also lean to the max; all the way until the MP needle is off the zero peg, any more and the engine will die.
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03-23-2010, 10:43 AM
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Join Date: Aug 2006
Location: santa barbara, CA
Posts: 1,682
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The original post didnt indicate what kind of FI system was installed, but if its an AFP ( and some others as well), then the first thing to do for a hot start is to flush the system of hot fuel and vapor using the purge valve and the boost pump. I run mine a good 30-45 seconds to really flush it out. If the purge line is teed into the feed line from a tank rather than going to the tank itself, make sure you have your fuel tank selector valve set to the opposite tank so that you are not just circulating hot fuel and vapor around in a loop.
erich
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03-24-2010, 06:42 AM
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Join Date: Apr 2007
Location: Bowral Australia
Posts: 13
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An observation.
I saw a guy start a 7 one day. It was a hot start and he used the full throttle method. He wasnt fast enough a bring the throttle back as it fired and from the sound of it it reached at least 2000RPM in about 2 seconds. The tail went way up, the prop went way down, how it didnt dig into the ground is beyond me. Scared him and everyone else who saw it. He quickly changed his method to mixture lean and throttle just cracked. I cant understand why anyone would start with full throttle when the other method works so well. Dont know about you but I only have two hands and one is on the start button.
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03-24-2010, 07:48 AM
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Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: SC
Posts: 12,887
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Chris Byrne
...from the sound of it it reached at least 2000RPM in about 2 seconds. ... He quickly changed his method to mixture lean and throttle just cracked. I cant understand why anyone would start with full throttle when the other method works so well. Dont know about you but I only have two hands and one is on the start button.
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The real problem with this method is that you don't have any oil pressure when it first fires up. Starting a low RPM's is much better for the engine, any engine, with any type of fuel system.
__________________
Bill R.
RV-9 (Yes, it's a dragon tail)
O-360 w/ dual P-mags
Build the plane you want, not the plane others want you to build!
SC86 - Easley, SC
www.repucci.com/bill/baf.html
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03-29-2010, 04:39 AM
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Join Date: Jan 2007
Location: Stuart, FL /Hartford, CT/Virgin Gorda,BVI
Posts: 3,122
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from the book..........
__________________
TURBO YES =VAF= Payed Jan2019
Ed D'Arcy
RV6-A 5,200+ hrs, R-44 1,600 hrs, Helicycle 320 hrs, gyro sold,35,000 miles flown in 2015 
Stuart, Fl / S WINDSOR,Ct / Virgin Gorda, BVI - under major repair from hurricane damage
VAF #840 EAA AOPA FAC FABA QB SPA
addicted pickle ball player
https://i.postimg.cc/tn3h4svg/IMG-3101.jpg
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03-30-2010, 12:03 AM
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Join Date: Feb 2006
Location: Europe, Finland (EFTU)
Posts: 542
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Quote:
Originally Posted by N941WR
The real problem with this method is that you don't have any oil pressure when it first fires up. Starting a low RPM's is much better for the engine, any engine, with any type of fuel system.
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What is the true oil pressure and how slowly the pressure meter will respond to that? We are also talking about hot engine, and I believe a lot of oil is still around the engine and not all of it at the bottom. And one thing more: we are talking seconds here, not hours and hundred of hours which these things are made to work.
I'm not claiming that it wouldn't be better to have gentle start, but just questioning is that really an issue.
__________________
Pirkka
- RV-7 -
Tail: Waiting for fiberglass.
Wings: Some priming left, then lot of riveting.
QB Fuse + Finishing kit: in crates.
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03-30-2010, 09:22 AM
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Join Date: Jan 2007
Location: Stuart, FL /Hartford, CT/Virgin Gorda,BVI
Posts: 3,122
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by the ..........
time some people take to start a hot engine there is lots of oil being pumped in the engine!!!!!!!!! oh yea!!!!!! 
__________________
TURBO YES =VAF= Payed Jan2019
Ed D'Arcy
RV6-A 5,200+ hrs, R-44 1,600 hrs, Helicycle 320 hrs, gyro sold,35,000 miles flown in 2015 
Stuart, Fl / S WINDSOR,Ct / Virgin Gorda, BVI - under major repair from hurricane damage
VAF #840 EAA AOPA FAC FABA QB SPA
addicted pickle ball player
https://i.postimg.cc/tn3h4svg/IMG-3101.jpg
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03-31-2010, 08:01 AM
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Join Date: Aug 2006
Location: Taylor Texas
Posts: 811
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I'll second that one
Quote:
Originally Posted by Chris Byrne
An observation.
I saw a guy start a 7 one day. It was a hot start and he used the full throttle method. He wasnt fast enough a bring the throttle back as it fired and from the sound of it it reached at least 2000RPM in about 2 seconds. The tail went way up, the prop went way down, how it didnt dig into the ground is beyond me. Scared him and everyone else who saw it. He quickly changed his method to mixture lean and throttle just cracked. I cant understand why anyone would start with full throttle when the other method works so well. Dont know about you but I only have two hands and one is on the start button.
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I was standing a bit too close to an aircraft when the fella used the above mentioned procedure once. He almost did a 180 into the ship parked next to him before he get 'er under control. I do not care to see that again!
The full throttle method, in conjunction with an MT or Whirlwind prop, is a recipe for disaster. These props are very light, and allow max RPM to develop quickly -- possibly before you could get the throttle back -- with potential spectacular results. Not good!
I urge you (ALL of you) to practice until you can do the 1/4 throttle (~1200RPM) procedure -- it is a far safer method for you, your wallet, and others around you. The Lycs start easy enough in ICO, after a bit of prime @ FT/full rich (1-2 seconds at most -- you will hear the pressure rise, indicating that the system is purged. Stop the pump at this point - try to NOT flood the engine).
Hot starting a TCM engine is a different art, generally done with the mixture full rich -- I am still learning that one. Ugh..
It may be that the new injection system from ECI behaves more like the TCM system, in which case those so equipped are warned against the Lyc procedures.
Additional item:
If your FI engine does not have a sniffle valve, GET ONE. Route the overflow out of the cowling with a hose or hard tubing.
Airflow Performance: 864.576.4512 "#1090138 drain valve"
Also, if it feels like Phoenix/Houston in August when you are doing this hot start, hit the boost pump switch once she's running to keep secondary vapor locking out of the loop. Adjust mixture as required for a smooth idle -- leaner is better in this case.
Carry on!
Mark
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03-31-2010, 07:37 PM
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Join Date: Dec 2008
Location: Fuquay Varina, NC
Posts: 75
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The best method I've found is the O-360, works every time. :-)
W/ my former IO-360:
Throttle cracked a bit;
Mixture cut-off;
Boost pump for 1-2 seconds;
Crank and ease mixture forward after a turn or two of the prop;
Cheers.
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11-19-2016, 03:25 PM
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Join Date: Nov 2005
Location: Palm Beach Gardens, Fl
Posts: 402
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Eci io360
I've been experimenting this question for about 300 hours. TITAN Eci Io360 and here is my new sequence for cold and hot. Cold in Florida isn't ever really cold. Shut down at 1500 rpm, leave throttle there, mixture rich, fuel pump on, watch for pressure and flow, push starter button until fired and running. If cold, pump can go to off quickly. If hot, pump off after the engine is running well without sputtering. I experimented after flights and discovered the engine can run well near idle with the Andair pump on too. It is rich, but running well enough to clear the vapor and hot fuel.
__________________
Bud Smith, RV-8, ECI IOX360 , Dual PMags, Dynon SkyView, Whirlwind 200GA, IFR and N88ZP has "slipped the surly bonds of earth".  
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