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02-04-2010, 08:19 PM
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Join Date: Nov 2007
Location: Jesup, Iowa
Posts: 1,657
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Hey Jim
The site glass has been the root of most of the problems. Without it, sealing the tank is not too bad at all. Almost every problem has been with the 'glass' area. That does require some serious planning or experience. Most 12 builders had/have neither. I also feel ethanol ( potential ) and plastic are not a good mix.
John Bender
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02-04-2010, 09:39 PM
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Join Date: Mar 2005
Location: Sandpoint, Idaho
Posts: 104
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leaking fuel tanks
Why not take it to your local Heli arc guy and have it welded? I plan on welding mine if I can talk my DAR into it being better and safer.
RV-4 flying
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02-05-2010, 06:43 AM
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Join Date: Nov 2008
Location: Sulphur Springs, Texas
Posts: 44
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2024-T3 is not considered a weldable aluminum for aircraft use, most welded tanks are made from 6061, 5052 or 3003. I would not weld the -12 gas tank.
__________________
Chuck Olmsted
East Texas Airframes
903-945-5120
33 RV airframes built
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02-05-2010, 07:32 AM
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Join Date: Dec 2007
Location: Spruce Creek, FL
Posts: 370
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ted Farmin
Why not take it to your local Heli arc guy and have it welded? I plan on welding mine if I can talk my DAR into it being better and safer.
RV-4 flying
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As Chuck said 2024 is not weldable and you will not find a welder who can weld the long seams in 0.025 thick aluminum, our ex-NASA welder will try at 0.040 and would prefer 0.060 for fuel tank welding.
Best regards,
Vern
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02-14-2010, 10:46 AM
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Join Date: Jan 2006
Posts: 905
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fuel tank woes
part five:
re tested and the glass still leaks at the same place. Have purchased new glass components from Van and will go back to the beginning. Pull top, (2nd time) remove glass and goop and install new glass with sufficient goop between the glass and tank (I hope). Will also pull access plate at front (2nd time) as putting the vent tube clamps back on when re assembling the top is a bear if that isn't done.! Will have to wait for new top rivets to re assemble. Will re test and post results in about two to three weeks.
The really interesting part about all this is I expect that I may finish the airplane completely in two to three weeks and not have a usable tank by that time.
I will remain positive in my outlook to encourage the gremlins in the tank to co-operate.
Dick
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02-14-2010, 01:46 PM
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Join Date: Feb 2005
Location: Huskerland, USA
Posts: 5,862
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dick seiders
part five:
re tested and the glass still leaks at the same place. Have purchased new glass components from Van and will go back to the beginning. Pull top, (2nd time) remove glass and goop and install new glass with sufficient goop between the glass and tank (I hope). Will also pull access plate at front (2nd time) as putting the vent tube clamps back on when re assembling the top is a bear if that isn't done.! Will have to wait for new top rivets to re assemble. Will re test and post results in about two to three weeks.
The really interesting part about all this is I expect that I may finish the airplane completely in two to three weeks and not have a usable tank by that time.
I will remain positive in my outlook to encourage the gremlins in the tank to co-operate.
Dick
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Dick, don't forget to goop the screws. I gooped the threads with enough goop that when I inserted the screw there was goop under the heads. Goop the nuts and the washers also.
I commend you for the positive attitude! Good luck! Keep us posted.
__________________
RV-7 : In the hangar
RV-10 : In the hangar
RV-12 : Built and sold
RV-44 : 4 place helicopter on order.
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02-15-2010, 07:27 AM
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Join Date: Apr 2008
Location: Riley TWP MI
Posts: 3,070
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Balloon Leak test
My original balloon test leaked, but I could not detect where because it leaked very slowly. I wanted to eliminate the fill tube and gas cap as possible leaks. What I needed was a balloon with a large neck that would fit over the T-1204B flange on top of the tank. I found such a "balloon" at the local pharmacy. I put a wide rubber band around the flange first to act as a gasket under the "balloon". Then put a second rubber band over that followed by electrical tape and a clamp. Broccoli comes wrapped with rubber bands that are perfect for this. There are no leaks now. Can anyone think of a good caption for the photo? LOL

As for the sight glass, I used plenty of sealant between the glass and the tank wall and also completely filled the threads of the screws. I discovered that the screw holes in the tank skin are slightly undersized. Instead of drilling them out, I forced all of the screws in. If not bottomed out, the screws will stay in place without the need for tape as described on page 37-05 step 3. After placing the glass over the screws, I filled all of the slots in the glass with sealant. There is no need to put sealant between the T-1213-1 Backing Plate and the glass because fuel needs to flow into the hollow space to indicate level. Sealant on the nuts and the ends of the screws is more for corrosion protection and thread locking than for leak prevention.
Joe
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02-15-2010, 07:38 AM
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Join Date: Mar 2005
Location: Dallas area
Posts: 10,768
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If your "balloon" remains inflated for more than 4 hours, you should call your Doctor!
__________________
Mel Asberry, DAR since the last century.
EAA Flight Advisor/Tech Counselor, Friend of the RV-1
Recipient of Tony Bingelis Award and Wright Brothers Master Pilot Award
USAF Vet, High School E-LSA Project Mentor.
RV-6 Flying since 1993 (sold)
<rvmel(at)icloud.com>
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02-15-2010, 09:49 AM
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Join Date: Nov 2007
Location: Jesup, Iowa
Posts: 1,657
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Hey Joe
Tell everyone this is natural when you fly and RV ! ! ! ! !
John Bender
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02-15-2010, 10:15 AM
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Join Date: Jun 2007
Location: Perth, Scotland
Posts: 494
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4 washers?
These replies are timely as I am gooping away, here in Scotland.
The plans call for 4 x NAS1149FN632P washers on every screw around the sight glass. That's 88 washers. I don't think that many were provided. Is it really 4 washers per screw? If so, why?
Thanks...Keith
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