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  #1  
Old 01-02-2010, 07:13 PM
jeff beckley jeff beckley is offline
 
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Default freezing my tukus off!

Flying in -7 is really rough. I have the standard heat box and was hopping for some suggestions on how to get more heat.
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  #2  
Old 01-02-2010, 07:26 PM
Kyle Boatright Kyle Boatright is offline
 
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Location: Atlanta, GA
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jeff beckley View Post
Flying in -7 is really rough. I have the standard heat box and was hopping for some suggestions on how to get more heat.
1) Install something that serves as additional heat sink and airflow reducer in your heat muff. My heat muff is packed with stainless steel scrubbing pads.

2) Seal air leaks.

I've only taken moderate actions here by slitting a piece of foam pipe insulation lengthwise and putting a removable "C" shaped section between the canopy rail and canopy skirt. This really helps.

You can seal the little V shaped grooves between the baggage compartment back wall and the bulkhead.

Also, you can put little booties on your aileron pushrods to seal the openings where the aileron push rods enter the fuselage.

My personal experience is that with just the canopy rail seals and the scrubbers in the heat muff, my airplane is reasonably comfortable on days when the surface temp gets down to 10f AND the sun is out. Without solar heat, I think it would be very cold...
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  #3  
Old 01-02-2010, 07:41 PM
David-aviator David-aviator is offline
 
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Location: Chesterfield, Missouri
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I agree with what Kyle says, but what would also help is to get the engine hotter by restricting air flow through the cowl.

That of course would involve some sort of cowl flap, more weight and complexity and before you know it, spring has arrived and who needs it. But, I figure if the CHT's could be increased from 290 to 375 without a hassle, there would be plenty of heat for the cabin. I've been thinking about a simple inlet baffle to restrict incoming air. I think Larry has done something like that with the RV-12 out in Nebraska.
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  #4  
Old 01-02-2010, 07:41 PM
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jsharkey jsharkey is offline
 
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Default Long Johns

You should see what Cub pilots wear in our neck of the woods when flying on skis to meet their buddies on snow mobiles out on the ice
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  #5  
Old 01-02-2010, 08:03 PM
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Jamie Jamie is offline
 
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Location: Atlanta, GA
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jeff beckley View Post
Flying in -7 is really rough. I have the standard heat box and was hopping for some suggestions on how to get more heat.
I'm assuming that you've sealed everything up and you just need more heat?

I am currently in the process of getting more heat into mine. In my research I have seen the following ways of generating more heat.

1) Install another heat muff on the exhaust stack on the other side. Then run scat from the baffles to the new muff, to the old muff then to the heat box.
2) Install a longer heat muff (Aircraft Spruce sells them). Some folks swear by it, some don't.
3) Pull heat off of the oil cooler, then to the heat muff...then to the heat box. I personally don't think this is a very good method since a lot of us block off our oil coolers in the winter anyway.
4) Drill a hole and install a scat tube on the lower cylinder baffles (the ones that are usually included with the engine). Then go to the standard heat muff then into the heat box.
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  #6  
Old 01-02-2010, 08:03 PM
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N130WN N130WN is offline
 
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Also,

* At the baffling, reduce the opening for the duct going to the heat muff. I think I made mine a 1 or 1 1/4" hole instead of 2". Slower flow will heat up more.

* Lean the mixture more when/if possible -- higher EGT's make a difference.

* Heated seats.

* Warm thoughts....
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Last edited by N130WN : 01-02-2010 at 08:07 PM.
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  #7  
Old 01-02-2010, 08:10 PM
jlk jlk is offline
 
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Higher EGT and CHT's

You will be heating your cockpit at the expense of your cylinder/engine life. If you can get 290 degree cylinder head temps, keep em!
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  #8  
Old 01-02-2010, 08:14 PM
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bsacks05 bsacks05 is offline
 
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Wow. If I use my cabin heat at all (sometimes in the winter) it is cracked open the smallest amount which generates nice warmth combined with all my canopy leaks.
'Course I am in the southeast but it would have to get REALLY cold for me to even open it halfway. Anyway, gonna fly a dog tomorrow and temps should be around freezing when I depart. Might have to open it a crack and a half!
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  #9  
Old 01-02-2010, 08:22 PM
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AlexPeterson AlexPeterson is offline
 
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Lots written about this topic in the archives, do have a look. Basic deal is that it is fairly easy to keep comfortable down to about 20F OAT. But, much, much tougher with OAT's near or below zero F. Two heaters is a must, airflow control is a must (too much air = cold air, too little means nice hot air but not enough). Lots of cold air wanting to come in. It comes in via wing roots and baggage area, back of slider if so equipped.

One simple trick is to fill the baggage area with a couple fluffy sleeping bags. Also, fold a towel and stuff between fuse outer skins and seat, to act as a **** to keep cold air from the baggage (side by side discussion here) from spilling around seat.

Mixture and power settings are important, go for max egt.

The aircraft performance in really cold weather is simply unbelievable.
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  #10  
Old 01-02-2010, 09:33 PM
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aviationgeek84 aviationgeek84 is offline
 
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Also worth noting that it's waaay below zero here in Iowa right now - dang near everywhere/everything is COLD. (-11 actual temp in Cedar Rapids right now)

That said, some good suggestions above.
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