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  #11  
Old 11-19-2009, 07:45 AM
T6pilot T6pilot is offline
 
Join Date: Jun 2008
Location: Cary, North Carolina
Posts: 78
Default Converting from FP to CS

Sam's right the removal of the punched rear plug is challenging. But there are ways to remove the old plug without destroying it and having to remove a cylinder to retrieve the pieces. If there is no rear plug installed then it's pretty easy to install the new rear plug, even around the transfer tube. There may be different configuration crankshafts that challenge this conversion?
Randy
P.S. However, there is also the installation of the external transfer tube, governor adapter, governor, prop control and c/s spinner to do as well...
It was well worth the effort!
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  #12  
Old 11-19-2009, 04:43 PM
jeff beckley jeff beckley is offline
 
Join Date: Jan 2006
Posts: 192
Default

My crank does not have the plug in the rear. It does have an oil tube that i have to get around. What is the procedure to install the plug when there is a oil tube.
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Des Moines Iowa
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  #13  
Old 11-19-2009, 05:06 PM
jabarr jabarr is offline
 
Join Date: Sep 2008
Location: Fayetteville, Georgia
Posts: 215
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I just finished removing my pierced rear plug and the crank has the oil tube. It bypasses the tube easily as the oil tube is off center in the crank. Soon as I obtain the p/n 61510 lycoming plug or equivalent, I'll let you know how easy it is to install.
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  #14  
Old 11-20-2009, 01:03 PM
jabarr jabarr is offline
 
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Location: Fayetteville, Georgia
Posts: 215
Default Update--

New plug is installed. Goes in easily---tapped into position with a long brass drift. Worst part was thinking about it so long!!
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  #15  
Old 12-09-2009, 05:05 PM
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Toobuilder Toobuilder is offline
 
Join Date: Jul 2009
Location: Mojave
Posts: 4,652
Default

So is anyone finding a bunch of sludge build up in the crank snout when they pull the outer cap off? I have an engine that has no "rear plug", but the crank was packed full of sludge... I can scrape it out, but I fear contaminating the bearings in the process. I will likely just tear down the 350hrs SMOH engine so I can be sure the crank gets properly cleaned.
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WARNING! Incorrect design and/or fabrication of aircraft and/or components may result in injury or death. Information presented in this post is based on my own experience - Reader has sole responsibility for determining accuracy or suitability for use.

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  #16  
Old 12-31-2009, 11:35 AM
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nomocom nomocom is offline
 
Join Date: Jun 2009
Location: Caldwell ID
Posts: 253
Default Lycoming "built in" centrifuge and SB 505B

Quote:
Originally Posted by Toobuilder View Post
but the crank was packed full of sludge
I also noticed mine was full of sludge when I went looking to see if I could do a constant speed conversion. I was concerned about having the dregs move backwards and fall in the crankcase, but turned out it wasn't a big deal. I used an old hacksaw blade, plus a narrow nozzle on a shop vac. Broke it loose with the blade, then vacuumed it out.

I thought I was done, but just now noticed a Lycoming service bulletin on cleaning and checking this area, 505B. Much detail here about what to check for. Purely optional for non-commercial flyers, but a good to-do list if you find corrosion. I think I'll go back for a second look, might as well, it is still apart.

This area of the crank reminds me of a bowl centrifuge, a device that works wonderfully at isolating particles that might take weeks to separate at only 1 G. I'd be very surprised if this wasn't the intent of a couple smart old Lycoming engineers. It has a high G environment, almost 200 g's at 2700 rpm, a pond area offering retention time for the oil (widest diameter), a dam (narrowed diameter) is the exit area back into the crankcase for the clarified oil. Only thing that isn't real obvious, how does the fixed pitch engine feed this tiny oil clarifier? Is it the front main bearing or splash though the end? Seems like whether fixed or constant speed, the solids are retained in the pond and removed either at rebuild or when inspecting. Removing the solids seems like a good thing to do once in a while, since once the "pond" fills with sludge, you've got no retention time nor anywhere for the solids to sit, so they are going right back into the crankcase. Once again very impressed by this decades old engine design.
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1990 RV-3 (now apart, upgrades in the works)
1959 C172 O-360
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  #17  
Old 02-06-2010, 04:01 PM
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panhandler1956 panhandler1956 is offline
 
Join Date: Jun 2006
Location: Ohio
Posts: 1,686
Default Converting my engine back to constant speed

I recently purchased a 'previously loved' IO-360-A1A which was set up for fixed pitch props. It doesn't have the stainless steel (or flexible) oil line, shown below from the Lycoming service bulletin No. 1435 for converting to or from constant speed props. Lycoming wants $500.00 for this part! Is this something that can be fabricated, or do I just need to pony up the cash?

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  #18  
Old 02-06-2010, 04:22 PM
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N941WR N941WR is offline
 
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Location: SC
Posts: 12,887
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Check with ECi.
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RV-9 (Yes, it's a dragon tail)
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  #19  
Old 02-06-2010, 05:03 PM
Goflyn Goflyn is offline
 
Join Date: Feb 2005
Location: Venice. FL
Posts: 27
Default Check Your E Mail

Brent;

Just sent you a couple of e-mails.
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  #20  
Old 02-06-2010, 05:15 PM
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RV6_flyer RV6_flyer is offline
 
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: NC25
Posts: 3,508
Default

On my present O-320 that I converted to Constant Speed operation, I purchased a custom 3,000 psi Aeroquip PMA Teflon stainless steel braided hose ($53 USD) from the local Aeroquip supplier.

For the 360 core that I have in my hangar and am building up, I purchased the governor drive adapter and stainless steel line from an RV-9A builder / flyer at my airport that went fixed pitch and says he will never go Constant Speed.

Check the Classified section here on VAF or place a WTB in the classified section here at VAF.
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Last edited by RV6_flyer : 02-06-2010 at 05:16 PM. Reason: added info
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