VansAirForceForums  
Home > VansAirForceForums

- POSTING RULES
- Donate yearly (please).
- Advertise in here!

- Today's Posts | Insert Pics

  #1  
Old 09-22-2009, 08:35 AM
jdeas's Avatar
jdeas jdeas is offline
 
Join Date: Mar 2006
Location: SoCal
Posts: 626
Default Painting over SW wash primer

I am at the point in my build where I need to paint the cockpit area. Being a QB kit most interior parts are already primed with SW wash primer.
I called SW and was given the following information for painting.

1) re-apply the wash primer if more than 8hrs old
2) Apply 1 coat Macropoxy 646
3) Apply 1 coat High solids Poly

This sounds more like their marine environment specs than what I was looking for.

What have others done to get a good chip resistant paint over the WP Vans appiles on the QB interior ?
__________________
JD
----------------------
RV-7 N314SY (KWHP)
IO-360-B1B

CANbus based trim/flaps and electrical
Reply With Quote
  #2  
Old 09-22-2009, 10:31 AM
Mel's Avatar
Mel Mel is offline
 
Join Date: Mar 2005
Location: Dallas area
Posts: 10,768
Default

I've been using SW wash primer for over 30 years. I've had good results with either shooting a fresh light coat of the same wash primer or scuffing with scotchbrite.
__________________
Mel Asberry, DAR since the last century.
EAA Flight Advisor/Tech Counselor, Friend of the RV-1
Recipient of Tony Bingelis Award and Wright Brothers Master Pilot Award
USAF Vet, High School E-LSA Project Mentor.
RV-6 Flying since 1993 (sold)
<rvmel(at)icloud.com>

Last edited by Mel : 09-22-2009 at 04:51 PM.
Reply With Quote
  #3  
Old 09-22-2009, 10:59 AM
vic syracuse vic syracuse is offline
Super Moderator
 
Join Date: May 2005
Location: Locust Grove, GA
Posts: 2,626
Default

I have also used the wash primer for many years, and usually another light coat or scuffing suffices. However, on the quickbuilds, I think they get some type of contamination/dirt on them from the overseas journey. I only scuffed and cleaned the last QB, and in some areas on the interior the paint has less-than-ideal adhesion.
__________________
Vic Syracuse

Built RV-4, RV-6, 2-RV-10's, RV-7A, RV-8, Prescott Pusher, Kitfox Model II, Kitfox Speedster, Kitfox 7 Super Sport, Just Superstol, DAR, A&P/IA, EAA Tech Counselor/Flight Advisor, CFII-ASMEL/ASES
Kitplanes "Unairworthy" monthly feature
EAA Sport Aviation "Checkpoints" column
EAA Homebuilt Council Chair/member EAA BOD
Author "Pre-Buy Guide for Amateur-Built Aircraft"
www.Baselegaviation.com
Reply With Quote
  #4  
Old 09-22-2009, 12:36 PM
jdeas's Avatar
jdeas jdeas is offline
 
Join Date: Mar 2006
Location: SoCal
Posts: 626
Default Did you use all three steps?

Did you guys use both the micropoxy and Poly coats? Think it would be safe to scuff and MEK as opposed to reapply WP
__________________
JD
----------------------
RV-7 N314SY (KWHP)
IO-360-B1B

CANbus based trim/flaps and electrical
Reply With Quote
  #5  
Old 09-22-2009, 12:44 PM
Mel's Avatar
Mel Mel is offline
 
Join Date: Mar 2005
Location: Dallas area
Posts: 10,768
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by jdeas View Post
Did you guys use both the micropoxy and Poly coats? Think it would be safe to scuff and MEK as opposed to reapply WP
Nope, just top coated with whatever I was using for the next step. Don't wipe down with MEK. It will remove the wash primer.
__________________
Mel Asberry, DAR since the last century.
EAA Flight Advisor/Tech Counselor, Friend of the RV-1
Recipient of Tony Bingelis Award and Wright Brothers Master Pilot Award
USAF Vet, High School E-LSA Project Mentor.
RV-6 Flying since 1993 (sold)
<rvmel(at)icloud.com>
Reply With Quote
  #6  
Old 09-22-2009, 04:20 PM
JonJay's Avatar
JonJay JonJay is offline
 
Join Date: Jan 2007
Location: Battleground
Posts: 4,348
Default as Mel says....

... and clean with a good wax/grease remover. I use Kleen Strip. It is a mild solvent that will not remove the original primer. This will give you good adhesion.
If you want excellent adhesion, you must scuff well beyond scotch bright, with something a lot more course, and reshoot. There is no chemical substitute for exposing more surface area for the paint to bite.
I chose not to do this as it is very difficult to work around finished interior structures. My paint is holding up well.
I finished with Valspar on my panel and PPG Concept for the interior.
__________________
Smart People do Stupid things all the time. I know, I've seen me do'em.

RV6 - Builder/Flying
Bucker Jungmann
Fiat G.46 -(restoration in progress, if I have enough life left in me)
RV1 - Proud Pilot.
Reply With Quote
  #7  
Old 05-25-2020, 10:08 PM
oren_rokach oren_rokach is offline
 
Join Date: Dec 2018
Location: Tel-Aviv Israel
Posts: 175
Default

So I went ahead and did a short test of spraying topcoat over bare Aluminum,
telling myself "let it last for 10 years, who knows what comes after"
well see what happens after one day! :
https://photos.app.goo.gl/rjfSv4cyoRs4Yrh77

Which is probably no surprise to all of you paint experts. but was a shock for me

going back to the thread topic, what I am trying to do is paint my interior QB fuse.
If I wipe the SW P60 was primer with Mek and spray on, will the results be the same?
is the fact that the fuse was already etched will give better results?
What about epoxy primer? can I spray over wiped with MEK aluminum?
I would like to avoid scuffing , in order not to remove the etched layer.

Thoughts on this?
__________________
Oren Rokach
4X-ODU
RV-10 QB
Cabin top installed, doors completed!
Wings almost done

Blog:
https://4x-odu.blogspot.com/

VAF 2020 dues paid!
Reply With Quote
  #8  
Old 05-26-2020, 04:23 AM
Jetmart Jetmart is offline
 
Join Date: Sep 2019
Location: Windsor, Ontario
Posts: 224
Default

I am at the same stage with a QB. The primer they use for QB is not exactly SW.

From Van's

The primer used on the QB kits is sourced by the factory in the Philippines, You will not find the exact product here in the US or Canada. You will be better off to just find a priming process you are happy with and build using what you can easily get locally.


The product they use is Sphero SW-600 primer with SWPR-2100 reducer, and SWPC-1000 acid catalyst.

I found the primer wipes off very easily off the QB fuse using something as benign as rubbing alcohol.
I am considering trying to wipe most of it off and starting with a new compatible primer.
__________________
Glenn Martin
Windsor, Ontario
1942 Tiger Moth
2017 Waco YMF-5
Kit # 140694
Received RV-14 Empennage Kit October 22, 2019
Started Tail Cone Dec 2019
Received QB Kit April 2020
Finished a mounted Tail Surfaces to Fuselage June 2020
2020 Dues Paid
Reply With Quote
  #9  
Old 05-26-2020, 07:10 AM
wirejock's Avatar
wirejock wirejock is offline
 
Join Date: Oct 2005
Location: Estes Park, CO
Posts: 3,947
Default Alumiprep

If it's anything like P60G2, Alumiprep will strip it right off. Peels it up like paint remover. I think it reacts with the acid somehow.
__________________
Larry Larson
Estes Park, CO
http://wirejockrv7a.blogspot.com
wirejock at yahoo dot com
Donated 12/03/2019, plus a little extra.
RV-7A #73391, N511RV reserved (2,000+ hours)
HS SB, empennage, tanks, wings, fuse, working finishing kit
Disclaimer
I cannot be, nor will I be, held responsible if you try to do the same things I do and it does not work and/or causes you loss, injury, or even death in the process.
Reply With Quote
Reply


Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

vB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Forum Jump


All times are GMT -6. The time now is 01:18 AM.


The VAFForums come to you courtesy Delta Romeo, LLC. By viewing and participating in them you agree to build your plane using standardized methods and practices and to fly it safely and in accordance with the laws governing the country you are located in.