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08-09-2009, 01:01 PM
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Join Date: Aug 2009
Location: Fort Wayne, IN
Posts: 1
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Best de-burring technique?
Okay, I'm struggling with the best method for sheet metal edge deburring. My builder assist coach taught me to use a file. I file down the edge to a flat, smooth finish, then file the 'corners' of the edge at about 45 degrees to round them off. I finish the whole process with a Scotch-Brite wheel. The edges are nice and rounded an smooth, but it is a tedious process.
Just to prevent confusion . . . I'm not referring to the corners of the sheet metal. Those can be filed or sanded to make a rounded corner
I see all these (seemingly) great tool built just for edge deburring. There's a dove tail (edge breaker) deburring tool and also a double edge (V-notch) deburring tool. Both look like they can accomplish the job that I'm doing with my file. Especially, if you follow it up with a Scotch-Brite wheel. Like all of you, I'm trying to produce QUALITY work, but maybe these short-cut tools can do both: 1) Quicken up the job and 2) Still produce quality work.
Thoughts on these techniques?? Is filing the best method or should I toss my file and go with the edge deburring tools?
Thanks! -Irishnavy
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08-09-2009, 01:31 PM
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Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: Utah
Posts: 8,151
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Welcome Andrew!
The best method is the one which works for YOU. Yes, filing is a tedious process sometimes but it produces nice burr-free edge. I used files and sandpaper/sandblocks to debur all the airframe. Sounds a bit crazy but I had time and it was good labor therapy. My budget was tight too when I started.
You will remember this deburring process later as the easiest one in airplane building 
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08-09-2009, 02:25 PM
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Join Date: Nov 2005
Location: Asheville, NC
Posts: 2,692
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Depends on personal taste and the situation
I agree with Vlad.
One note to add. The sheet metal punching machine in use at Vans always leaves small "nibs" about every 2 inches on the sheet parts. I found that going directly to a knife, vee, or double wheel style debur was not best for me. The blades would hang up on the nibs and give a "stutter" cut. So, I use the file to get rid of the nibs and then finish with a myriad of tools such as the scotchbrite wheel or vee, or single edge deburr, etc.
__________________
Bill Pendergrass
ME/AE '82
RV-7A: Flying since April 15, 2012. 850 hrs
YIO-360-M1B, mags, CS, GRT EX and WS H1s & A/P, Navworx
Unpainted, polished....kinda'... Eyeballin' vinyl really hard.
Yeah. The boss got a Silhouette Cameo 4 Xmas 2019.
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08-09-2009, 02:26 PM
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Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: Lake St. Louis, MO.
Posts: 2,346
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Welcome aboard Andrew! Deburring need not be an overly tedius task so try not to overthink the process. To quickly debur most work, I use 3 basic tools found and used extensively in most aircraft production shops. In that environment, an inspector will see how well you deburred by simply running the tips of his fingers over your work. You've got fingers too so use them to judge the quality of your own efforts.
__________________
Rick Galati
RV6A N307R"Darla!"
RV-8 N308R "LuLu"
EAA Technical Counselor
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08-09-2009, 04:19 PM
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Join Date: Sep 2007
Location: Montabaur, Germany
Posts: 66
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I also use the deburring tools - after a little practice they work very well on long straight edges and larger holes.
First, I smoothen the edges with a file to get rid of the notches from the shearing process. Next, I use those deburring tools - for long straight edges I use the V-shaped tool. This gives even better results than with a file. Corners, slots, etc. I deburr with file, 3M Scotchprite wheel, etc. And yes, it is a labour-intensive and a rather mindless process. Makes you reflect on the decision to build an airplane :-).
For holes I use a cordless screw driver with a drill bit. The cordless screw driver turns rather slowly, so I do one or two turns for each hole.
Thilo
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08-09-2009, 06:53 PM
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Join Date: May 2006
Location: Pocahontas MS
Posts: 3,884
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You probably won't like it....
For the big sheets, I used a 3" belt sander. Clamp the skin to the workbench in a couple of places, start with a pass (Light pressure!) more or less square, then tilt the sander to <90degrees & draw it down both sides of the edge. 120 grit works pretty well to get the worst of the shear marks off very quickly, followed by a touchup with a file or scotchbrite wheel.
For the small stuff, I've got an old Harbor Freight 1" belt sander that was worthless until I discovered that I could remove all the guards, table, belt backing plate, etc & dress the edges of small pieces. It's also very useful to do very fast final shaping on pieces that were cut on a bandsaw.
Charlie
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08-09-2009, 07:26 PM
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Join Date: Nov 2006
Location: Waco, Texas
Posts: 1,658
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You'll find your own method, but for me.
1) Draw file the edge to a perfectly smooth surface. That leaves a 90 degree sharp edge on both sides.
2) Run my swizzle deburr tool down each side to remove the 90.
Truth is, it's fine right there. But I'm a little OCD so.....
3) I run a 1" scotch brite wheel (on a die grinder) down the edge. That really does the trick.
It doesn't take long to debur those edges. I can do an entire skin in just a couple of minutes and it's smooth as a baby's bottom.
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08-09-2009, 09:03 PM
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Join Date: Mar 2005
Posts: 78
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I use a file
I turn my file around and draw it back towards me. I think thats called draw filing and it works really well with the edges of skins. 2-3 pulls, light pressure, and smooth as can be (no cut fingers yet).
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08-10-2009, 12:43 AM
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Join Date: Mar 2007
Location: Sonoma County
Posts: 3,821
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Quote:
Originally Posted by compren
I turn my file around and draw it back towards me. I think thats called draw filing and it works really well with the edges of skins. 2-3 pulls, light pressure, and smooth as can be (no cut fingers yet).
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DRAW FILING is when the file is held with both hands and at 90 degrees to the part and then pulled back to you.
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