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02-12-2006, 05:54 PM
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Join Date: Dec 2005
Posts: 27
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Thought I knew better...
In my persuit of perfection, I drilled out the two rivets securing HS404 to the HS702 spar and HS405, and of course, the holes are now enlarged. Would an AN5 rivet be appropriate here..?
Thanks...
TJoyner (Feeling stupid...  )
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02-12-2006, 06:42 PM
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Join Date: Mar 2005
Location: ...
Posts: 2,049
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Nuts and bolts
Yeah, in my case, my emp wasn't entirely pre-punched and the build sequence was different than what Van's recommends now. The key was that you were to leave the inboard nose ribs out so you could reach in and buck the middle nose rib rivets. I think I just spaced on that, riveted the inboard nose ribs, and had to drill out the nose rib to front spar rivets. The holes got mangled since I was pretty much clueless.
I didn't have a 5/32" cupped set, so I opted to drill the holes out to #12 and put AN3 bolts/AN365-1032 nuts in there. A heavy solution to a dumb mistake.
But the plane flies just fine. Just inspected the tailcone and empennage last night as part of my condition inspection. Yep, there were those bolts.
)_( Dan
RV-7 N714D (812 hours)
http://www.rvproject.com
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02-12-2006, 08:23 PM
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Join Date: Oct 2005
Location: Melbourne, Australia
Posts: 1,865
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Quote:
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Originally Posted by TJoyner
In my persuit of perfection, I drilled out the two rivets securing HS404 to the HS702 spar and HS405, and of course, the holes are now enlarged. Would an AN5 rivet be appropriate here..?
Thanks...
TJoyner (Feeling stupid...  )
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Get a 5/32 set and some rivets of various lengths. That's the answer. You'll use it again.
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02-12-2006, 08:31 PM
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Join Date: Sep 2005
Posts: 1,110
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Quote:
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Originally Posted by TJoyner
In my persuit of perfection, I drilled out the two rivets securing HS404 to the HS702 spar and HS405, and of course, the holes are now enlarged. Would an AN5 rivet be appropriate here..?
Thanks...
TJoyner (Feeling stupid...  )
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I'd just ask Vans if it's OK to replace them with 5/32" blind rivets. I had a couple of cases where I had to do that. Way easier than procuring a 5/32 set and trying to set those. As difficult as 1/8" is to set when you're first starting, it doesn't get any easier going up a size to 5/32".
Here's how I did mine
http://www.ballofshame.com/flying/rv...g/20060108.php
But before you do anything, call Vans so you sleep well at night 
__________________
John Coloccia
www.ballofshame.com
Former builder, but still lurking 'cause you're a pretty cool bunch...
Last edited by jcoloccia : 02-12-2006 at 08:40 PM.
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02-12-2006, 10:22 PM
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Join Date: Feb 2006
Posts: 81
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I agree with John. Had a similar experience. I put a -5 rivet in the VS skeleton and it was a b*tch to set in the thin channel. Maybe it was my gun or just me, but I can't recommend it.
__________________
Greg Grigson
Yellow Peril / RV-6A SOLD
Albuquerque, New Mexico
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02-12-2006, 10:28 PM
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Join Date: Mar 2005
Location: ...
Posts: 2,049
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Don't shoot! Squeeze...
Quote:
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Originally Posted by Grigson
I agree with John. Had a similar experience. I put a -5 rivet in the VS skeleton and it was a b*tch to set in the thin channel. Maybe it was my gun or just me, but I can't recommend it.
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Try squeezing it. Less battering going on.
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Dan Checkoway RV-7
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02-13-2006, 07:47 AM
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Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: Highland, IL
Posts: 271
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I've had to use 5's several times for the same reason, I screwed up. I see no reason a few pulled rivets can not be used. However, I shot 5's most times with a 3X gun, they are tough.
First try to set the rivet with a squeezer if you can get at it, don't try to fully set it on the first squeeze. Set the squeezer so as it just starts the set as it fully closes, then reset it to squeeze a little more etc until you get it done.
If you can't use a squeezer set the gun to a higher pressure then for 4's and use the heaviest bar you can find. In no case let the assembly move as you shoot or you will pay! Clamp it down tight.
Also, when you are replacing 4's with 5's, there is no reason you have to follow the "rule" about length and shop head size... remember you are trying to get the strength of a 4. Select a 5 that is shorter than you normally would and only set it to a point where you would a 4.
IMHO... works for me, hope it helps.
Larry
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02-13-2006, 08:47 AM
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Join Date: Mar 2005
Location: ...
Posts: 2,049
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Twin piston squeezer
A twin piston squeezer should be able to handle a 5 no problem. Beg/borrow/steal one for the task if you don't have one. Or just use other methods...
See, this is a pain in the butt. Try not to make the mistake in the first place! 
__________________
Dan Checkoway RV-7
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02-13-2006, 01:26 PM
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Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: Boise, ID
Posts: 1,007
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Depending on how enlarged the holes are, you can "pre-squeeze" a longer rivet, swelling it up some to fit the hole, thereby holding it normal to the skin and less likely to heal over, particularly if not bucked square on. Knowing this trick helps bunches instead of always having to go up a size if your drilling isn't perfectly concentric.
John Siebold
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02-13-2006, 10:14 PM
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Join Date: Dec 2005
Posts: 27
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Thanks for all the fast reply's. I recieved a message from Van's on this, and after a light scolding from Ken Scott about drilling out rivets just to replace them  , he said 5/32's were fine if you can find some. Luckily I drive right by Aircraft Spruce on the way to work, so I'll be picking some up (As well as a 5/32 set...) here in a day or so...
Thanks again...
TJoyner
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