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10-17-2008, 08:13 AM
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Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: Eastern, PA
Posts: 828
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RAMPEYBOY
Anyone have an opinion on duplicolor self etching primer? Saw it at Walmart for $4 something a can. Almost looks to be same color as Zinc chromate primer too!
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I get it at Autozone but I don't leave it by itself. I go over it with Rustoleum Gloss Protective Enamel. When dry the combination is tough.
http://www.vansairforce.com/communit...t=16336&page=2

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05-16-2009, 11:53 PM
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Join Date: Mar 2009
Location: Plano, TX
Posts: 2,089
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I picked up a can of the duplicolor self-etching primer the other day to play around with, so far I'm pretty impressed for rattle-can. I put a light, but full-coverage, coat on a piece of scape angle yesterday. The only prep I did was to wipe the angle off with a rag. Today I took the sharp corner of a bit of poplar I had laying around and rubbed it agross the surface with a significant ammout of force. The paint held up great and the rubbing only polished the surface. Sharp objects like a scribe scratched through pretty easy though. As a plus, the primer sands quite well just like "sandable" primer.
I don't know what kind of corrosion protection this stuff would provide, I looked at the MSDS and there is no mention of zinc chromate or chromium. Looking at paint systems for aircraft, most list zinc chromate as the first component on the MSDS. However, the Duplicolor MSDS is missing about 10% of components (The % by volume/weight only adds up to 90.5%). I guessing that the active solids are part of this missing 10%...
__________________
Colin P.
RV-6A #20603
Complete 5/10/19
PP SEL / A&P
I donate every year on my B-Day (in Dec), but donated early in Sep'19.
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05-17-2009, 07:46 AM
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Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: Hazlehurst, GA
Posts: 1,359
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Several methods
On my RV8 I used Alumiprep/Alodine/PPG DP40. Time consuming and a health/environment nightmare. On the RV6A I am using scotchbrite/Marhyde Rattle Can/Cardinal custom mix Grey enamel. Much easier and less of a concern on the health/environment front. On the RV10, some experimentation by using Alumiprep/Alodine/Marhyde Rattle Can on the parts that can be batched in a tub to etch and alodine. The larger parts/surfaces are getting scotchbrite/Marhyde.
An friend of mine in his 70s laughs at us. He was a mechanic with Delta and worked at Piper. His contention is that the Alclad coating will outlast all of us and there are not enough museums to hold these primed airplanes. He may have a point, my 46 Ercoupe does not have any corrosion on it.
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IHN,
2020 Dues Paid
Robby Knox
THEM: Why do you always carry a knife?
ME: I can't open a bag of chips with my Glock!
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05-17-2009, 08:38 AM
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Join Date: Apr 2007
Location: Norway, Stj?rdal
Posts: 598
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Hard Knox
An friend of mine in his 70s laughs at us. He was a mechanic with Delta and worked at Piper. His contention is that the Alclad coating will outlast all of us and there are not enough museums to hold these primed airplanes. He may have a point, my 46 Ercoupe does not have any corrosion on it.
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He may very well have a point regarding Alclad, but the main issue is the climate. The corrosion rate of aluminum in coastal areas compared with inland areas is typical a factor 100-500. 50 years of operation inland will show the same corrosion as a month or two at the coast.
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05-17-2009, 09:16 AM
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Join Date: Oct 2007
Location: Jackson, MS
Posts: 1,262
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About 4 cases to do all areas inside the plane. I plan to live on the coast one day and went to a more extreme and I mean everything.
If I had to do it over again, I would buy the 2 part primer that you mix from Sherwin Williams which is about the toughest thing I have seen except when I need to prime just one little piece. My friend building a 9A here has used it and his results are stellar.
Something I did learn is if you are planning to top coat a primed area, don't prime it until you are ready spray the top coat. Otherwise, get ready to do a quick sand of the primer if you want good adhession.
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Webb Willmott
Jackson, MS
N32WW
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05-17-2009, 03:45 PM
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Join Date: Aug 2006
Location: Secluded Lake,Alaska (AK49)
Posts: 359
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Two reasons
to prime that I can think of.
As a base for color/ appearance
As protection against elements
Three things needed for corrosion
Moisture, electron flow, and dis-similar metals (or salts on metal)
Remove any one of these three and corrosion won't happen.
Epoxy primers (and others) stop moisture and electron flow, cromate primers provide a sacrificail material to corrode, pure aluminum (clad) turns to aluminum oxide with no pits (same as sandpaper grit, tough stuff).
I like zinc cromate on clean unscuffed clad, epoxy on dis-similar metals and some times packing tape (on nutplates) to prevent electron flow.
Andrew
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05-18-2009, 09:10 PM
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Join Date: Mar 2009
Location: Plano, TX
Posts: 2,089
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Has anyone thought about anodizing the majority of small parts, even wing ribs and bulkheads. You can get a very decent at-home kit for $350. Just a thought....
http://www.caswellplating.com/kits/aluminum.htm
__________________
Colin P.
RV-6A #20603
Complete 5/10/19
PP SEL / A&P
I donate every year on my B-Day (in Dec), but donated early in Sep'19.
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05-18-2009, 09:33 PM
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Join Date: Feb 2008
Location: Plant City, Florida
Posts: 229
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Priming
I was a Painter Trainer and Senior Systems Tech Counselor with BASF Chemicals for 7 Years. I can tell you that my 8 emp will be with a rattle can. Shake and spray don't look back, keep pounding rivets...
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cyberpilot10
Plant City, FL
RV 8 Emp.
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05-23-2009, 10:49 AM
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Join Date: Jun 2008
Location: Oklahoma City
Posts: 74
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Rattle cans on fiberglass
I'm building an RV-12. I self- etch primed aluminum mating surfaces, but not the exterior surfaces.
I fiberglassed my canopy and want to prime for final sanding, seeing what I have, etc., preferably with rattle can lacquer like mar-hyde, etc.
I dont want to screw up the possibility of a conventional 2 part exterior paint job.
At the same time, It looks like people use a 2 part epoxy primer followed by a catalyzed primer surfacer i.e. k36.
Are rattle cans compatible with PPG epoxy?
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06-22-2009, 12:01 AM
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Join Date: Nov 2008
Location: Smyrna, TN
Posts: 7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by WingsOnWheels
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I seem to remember something in Sport Aviation about how certain kinds of anodizing were the culprit of spar failure.
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