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  #1  
Old 05-03-2009, 01:19 PM
Mark L Mark L is offline
 
Join Date: Mar 2005
Posts: 48
Default Weld filling drilled hole in elevator horn

Recently I went back to the HS and elevators to drill the hinge bolt holes in the elevator control horns, using a drill bushing in the bearing. I drilled a #40 pilot and enlarged up to 1/4". However, after enlarging I found that there was not quite enough clearance to fit the hinge bolt & nut; the hole was drilled too close to the pipe of the elevator horn. After evaluating the problem, it appears to be due to slight angle in the elevator horns when they were welded. Every thing fit up well when they were fit when constructing the elevators.

I called Van's (they said this is a common occurance) and it was suggested that I grind down the bolt head a bit to allow for fit (the only interence on this side is due to the weld bead between the horn and pipe), and use a recessed nut on the bolt (allowing me to secure or turn on the hinge bolt). But, no joy; I cannot get the washer on and thread on the nut. There still is not enough clearance (maybe as much as 1/16"). An alternative suggestion from Van's is to fill the drilled hole (weld it full), grind it down flat again, thus repair the hole; back out the HS rod end bearings a bit and redrill.

This is where I am headed. I have friend who will fill it for me. However, I would like to get some advice from the group as to what welding material and method (Mig?) should be used to fill the 2, 1/4" holes.

Any knowlegable welders out there?
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  #2  
Old 05-03-2009, 02:54 PM
N258RE N258RE is offline
 
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Location: MI
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Default

I had a similar problem. twice well two different problems,any how I filled both holes with a mig,ground them flat (I was a weldor in a former life) and re drilled the holes,

I have not flown the plane yet but it was not even a blip on the concern radar for me
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  #3  
Old 05-03-2009, 07:26 PM
aerhed aerhed is offline
 
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Location: Big Sandy, WY
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Default

You can weld it okay, but hardening around the old hole can make re-drilling tricky. Have you thought of making a nice divot in the washers on either side? That way your bolt head and nut stay square. Otherwise you can plug it with a soft steel bolt, re-drill, then weld the plug after or leave it. Depends on how the plug & new hole relate.
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  #4  
Old 05-03-2009, 09:43 PM
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DanH DanH is offline
 
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Back one side of the hole with a brass or copper block, clamp firmly. Warm the block enough to sizzle spit using a propane torch or something. Now tig the hole closed, working from the outer edge inward in a spiral. Leave the block clamped in place until cool enough to handle with a bare hand.

The block does two things. The plug will be flat and smooth on one side, and the block's mass slows the cooling rate. 4130 is an air-hardening steel; slow cool equals easy to drill later.
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  #5  
Old 05-03-2009, 11:34 PM
Lars Lars is offline
 
Join Date: Nov 2005
Location: Davis, CA
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DanH View Post
Back one side of the hole with a brass or copper block, clamp firmly. Warm the block enough to sizzle spit using a propane torch or something. Now tig the hole closed, working from the outer edge inward in a spiral. Leave the block clamped in place until cool enough to handle with a bare hand.

The block does two things. The plug will be flat and smooth on one side, and the block's mass slows the cooling rate. 4130 is an air-hardening steel; slow cool equals easy to drill later.
Also gives you plenty of time to go mix a gin & tonic, and slice a lime to perfection while you are waiting.
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  #6  
Old 05-04-2009, 04:23 AM
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robjohnson robjohnson is offline
 
Join Date: Jun 2005
Location: IL
Posts: 132
Default Single flute bits for drilling the welded material

Buy a single flute drill bit from McMaster-Carr -- I had to have mine welded twice (first one misdrilled...the second messed up during drilling because of the hardness of the weld). Did a bunch of research and found that a single flute bit was the ticket. It went through the weld like butter! I started with #40 and then stepped it up to final size.
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  #7  
Old 05-04-2009, 04:28 AM
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robjohnson robjohnson is offline
 
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Location: IL
Posts: 132
Default Filler material

Also, I would TIG it closed, not MIG. TIG keeps the heat impacted area close and there is no splatter like MIG. Lincoln Electric has some guidance on TIG filler for 4130. I used ER80S-D2 on mine. Here's a link to their site --

http://www.lincolnelectric.com/knowl...hrome-moly.asp
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  #8  
Old 05-04-2009, 09:15 AM
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RV8Squaz RV8Squaz is offline
 
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Location: Senoia, Georgia
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I had mine professionally filled/welded and ground down. I didn't do the welding so I don't have specifics on that. What I can tell you is that I have 350 hours on my -8 with lots of aerobatics flown between -2 and 5 g and the filled hole is of no concern. The area looks great.

Jerry
RV-8 N84JE flying since Feb 4, 2007
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  #9  
Old 05-04-2009, 09:18 AM
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24Golf 24Golf is offline
 
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Location: Madison, MS
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Default Welded

We welded ours and re-drilled - No problems...
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  #10  
Old 10-25-2010, 08:12 AM
swrankin swrankin is offline
 
Join Date: Aug 2009
Location: Kansas City, MO
Posts: 3
Default Weld filling drilled hole in elevator horn

Quote:
Originally Posted by DanH View Post
Back one side of the hole with a brass or copper block, clamp firmly. Warm the block enough to sizzle spit using a propane torch or something. Now tig the hole closed, working from the outer edge inward in a spiral. Leave the block clamped in place until cool enough to handle with a bare hand.

The block does two things. The plug will be flat and smooth on one side, and the block's mass slows the cooling rate. 4130 is an air-hardening steel; slow cool equals easy to drill later.
Does anyone know of any TIG welders in the Kansas City area with experience performing this repair? So far I've only come across gas or MIG welders.....must be a geographical preference or something. :-)

Thanks
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