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  #1  
Old 04-14-2009, 08:39 AM
prkaye prkaye is offline
 
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Location: Ottawa, Ontario, Canada
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Default single-wire disconnect

I want to have a removeable disconnect in the wires from my flap motor. There are only two wires so I want soemthing very simple. Here are the options I'm considering, and questions about each:

1) ring terminals on both segments, screw and nut through ring terminals to connect wires. I've never seen this done, is this bad practice?

2) knife-splices. I've never seen or used these, only read about them. Are they suitably secure?

3) Do they make a "male" faston-style wire terminal that would fit in the standard faston terminals (the "femal" kind I use to plug into the tabs on all my terminal blocks, fuseblocks etc) ? I haven't found anything like this on Spruce or B&C.

Thanks!

Phil
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  #2  
Old 04-14-2009, 08:46 AM
rwhittier rwhittier is offline
 
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Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by prkaye View Post
2) knife-splices. I've never seen or used these, only read about them. Are they suitably secure?
I have used knife splices before, they are very secure. Not to mention simple and light. Just make sure you insulate them well, I use shrink tubing. Ever need access, just cut away the shrink tubing.

Good luck.
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  #3  
Old 04-14-2009, 08:51 AM
ericwolf ericwolf is offline
 
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Default

They do make "male" fast-ons, I have used them. Just cover them with heat shrink (obviously)

A better solution in my opinion is to use molex connectors. I have them in several places on my -8A and they can be connected and disconnected in a second. It requires that you have an open barrel crimper.

You can get both at steinair.com.
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  #4  
Old 04-14-2009, 08:59 AM
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Mike S Mike S is offline
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Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by prkaye View Post

3) Do they make a "male" faston-style wire terminal that would fit in the standard faston terminals

Thanks!

Phil
Yes, they exist. I have bought them at an auto parts store. And, they have an insulation boot that will cover the assembly, so no need for additional insulation.

I would like to recommend one thing for you. If you do this, use one female and one male on the motor, not two of the same. This will ensure correct polarity when you put it back together.

Better still, get a polarized plug setup like these or the molex suggested above.

Good luck.
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Last edited by Mike S : 04-14-2009 at 09:10 AM.
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  #5  
Old 04-14-2009, 09:02 AM
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f1rocket f1rocket is offline
 
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Default

Either knife splices or a 2-pronged Molex connector will work. You can even solder the wires together and cover them with heat shrink. If you need to remove, you can strip the heat shrink and un-solder.
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  #6  
Old 04-14-2009, 11:07 AM
vonjet vonjet is offline
 
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Location: Thousand Oaks, CA
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Default Or maybe try these

These are for battery connections for Remote controls stuff. They can handle high voltage, are low resistance and you cant plug them in wrong. They are available at any hobby shop for $3.
http://www.wsdeans.com/products/plugs/ultra_plug.html
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  #7  
Old 04-14-2009, 12:39 PM
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sonny junell sonny junell is offline
 
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Default

This probably deserves another thread but, How can I determine if my electrical connection are appropriate quality to use on a airplane?
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  #8  
Old 04-14-2009, 01:00 PM
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L.Adamson L.Adamson is offline
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sonny junell View Post
This probably deserves another thread but, How can I determine if my electrical connection are appropriate quality to use on a airplane?
Aviation quality crimp connectors/splices will have a double crimp area. One for the stripped wire, and one for the insulation sleeve. What you get at the auto-parts store will usually have only the crimping area for the bare wire. These connectors are usually "see-through" too. Will come in blue or red/pink for most of the wiring we do.

Besides internet sites that sell aviation type electrical fittings; I've also found some at marine stores such as West Marine and electronic warehouses, and my local FBO. Have never seen any at Radio Shack.

L.Adamson --- RV6A
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  #9  
Old 04-14-2009, 01:24 PM
scsmith scsmith is offline
 
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Location: Ashland, OR
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Default A few other options

One of the problems with the knife type connectors and Faston connectors is insulating them. You can use short segments of shrink tube, slide over the connector, and tie wrap it. THis works better with the knife connectors because they are sort of round.

But, another option to consider is a Molex two-pin plug and socket. They work fine, quick to install, can get them at Frys.

I used them on my stick wiring and my flap motor.
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  #10  
Old 04-14-2009, 01:28 PM
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andrew phillips andrew phillips is offline
 
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Location: Carp, Ont
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Default Dont do anything

How about not putting any connector in. Leave some slack in the wire where you might put a connector in the future. If you ever need to remove the motor, cut the wires then crimp on the connectors at that time. You may never ever need them and if you do then do it at that time.
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