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04-14-2009, 08:39 AM
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Join Date: Jun 2006
Location: Ottawa, Ontario, Canada
Posts: 2,116
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single-wire disconnect
I want to have a removeable disconnect in the wires from my flap motor. There are only two wires so I want soemthing very simple. Here are the options I'm considering, and questions about each:
1) ring terminals on both segments, screw and nut through ring terminals to connect wires. I've never seen this done, is this bad practice?
2) knife-splices. I've never seen or used these, only read about them. Are they suitably secure?
3) Do they make a "male" faston-style wire terminal that would fit in the standard faston terminals (the "femal" kind I use to plug into the tabs on all my terminal blocks, fuseblocks etc) ? I haven't found anything like this on Spruce or B&C.
Thanks!
Phil
__________________
Phil
RV9A (SB)
Flying since July 2010!
Ottawa, Canada
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04-14-2009, 08:46 AM
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Join Date: Oct 2006
Location: Glendale, AZ
Posts: 256
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Quote:
Originally Posted by prkaye
2) knife-splices. I've never seen or used these, only read about them. Are they suitably secure?
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I have used knife splices before, they are very secure. Not to mention simple and light. Just make sure you insulate them well, I use shrink tubing. Ever need access, just cut away the shrink tubing.
Good luck.
__________________
Roger Whittier
RV7A Quick Build, Tip Up
N1MY Reserved - Canopy finished - Wings mated, Engine hung, electrical 95%
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04-14-2009, 08:51 AM
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Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: Racine, WI
Posts: 235
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They do make "male" fast-ons, I have used them. Just cover them with heat shrink (obviously)
A better solution in my opinion is to use molex connectors. I have them in several places on my -8A and they can be connected and disconnected in a second. It requires that you have an open barrel crimper.
You can get both at steinair.com.
__________________
Eric Wolf
RV-8A Flying since May 2009, 300+ hours
Mattituck IOF-360, WW 200RV Prop
N184EW
Past President, EAA838 Racine, WI
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04-14-2009, 08:59 AM
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Senior Curmudgeon
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Join Date: Sep 2005
Location: Dayton Airpark, NV A34
Posts: 15,420
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Quote:
Originally Posted by prkaye
3) Do they make a "male" faston-style wire terminal that would fit in the standard faston terminals
Thanks!
Phil
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Yes, they exist. I have bought them at an auto parts store. And, they have an insulation boot that will cover the assembly, so no need for additional insulation.
I would like to recommend one thing for you. If you do this, use one female and one male on the motor, not two of the same. This will ensure correct polarity when you put it back together.
Better still, get a polarized plug setup like these or the molex suggested above.
Good luck.
__________________
Mike Starkey
VAF 909
Rv-10, N210LM.
Flying as of 12/4/2010
Phase 1 done, 2/4/2011 
Sold after 240+ wonderful hours of flight.
"Flying the airplane is more important than radioing your plight to a person on the ground incapable of understanding or doing anything about it."
Last edited by Mike S : 04-14-2009 at 09:10 AM.
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04-14-2009, 09:02 AM
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Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: Martinsville, IN
Posts: 2,326
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Either knife splices or a 2-pronged Molex connector will work. You can even solder the wires together and cover them with heat shrink. If you need to remove, you can strip the heat shrink and un-solder.
__________________
Randy Pflanzer
Greenwood, IN
www.pflanzer-aviation.com
Paid through 2043!
Lund fishing Boat, 2017, GONE FISHING
RV-12 - Completed 2014, Sold
427 Shelby Cobra - Completed 2012, Sold
F1 EVO - partially completed, Sold
F1 Rocket - Completed 2005, Sold
RV-7A - Partially completed, Sold
RV-6 - Completed 2000, Sold
Long-EZ - Completed 1987, Sold
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04-14-2009, 11:07 AM
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Join Date: Feb 2008
Location: Thousand Oaks, CA
Posts: 183
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Or maybe try these
These are for battery connections for Remote controls stuff. They can handle high voltage, are low resistance and you cant plug them in wrong. They are available at any hobby shop for $3.
http://www.wsdeans.com/products/plugs/ultra_plug.html
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04-14-2009, 12:39 PM
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Join Date: Aug 2007
Location: Midlothian
Posts: 147
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This probably deserves another thread but, How can I determine if my electrical connection are appropriate quality to use on a airplane?
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04-14-2009, 01:00 PM
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Join Date: Apr 2005
Location: KSLC
Posts: 4,021
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sonny junell
This probably deserves another thread but, How can I determine if my electrical connection are appropriate quality to use on a airplane?
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Aviation quality crimp connectors/splices will have a double crimp area. One for the stripped wire, and one for the insulation sleeve. What you get at the auto-parts store will usually have only the crimping area for the bare wire. These connectors are usually "see-through" too. Will come in blue or red/pink for most of the wiring we do.
Besides internet sites that sell aviation type electrical fittings; I've also found some at marine stores such as West Marine and electronic warehouses, and my local FBO. Have never seen any at Radio Shack.
L.Adamson --- RV6A
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04-14-2009, 01:24 PM
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Join Date: Jan 2008
Location: Ashland, OR
Posts: 2,574
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A few other options
One of the problems with the knife type connectors and Faston connectors is insulating them. You can use short segments of shrink tube, slide over the connector, and tie wrap it. THis works better with the knife connectors because they are sort of round.
But, another option to consider is a Molex two-pin plug and socket. They work fine, quick to install, can get them at Frys.
I used them on my stick wiring and my flap motor.
__________________
Steve Smith
Aeronautical Engineer
RV-8 N825RV
IO-360 A1A
WW 200RV
"The Magic Carpet"
Hobbs 625
LS6-15/18W sailplane SOLD
bought my old LS6-A back!! 
VAF donation Jan 2020
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04-14-2009, 01:28 PM
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Join Date: Dec 2006
Location: Carp, Ont
Posts: 347
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Dont do anything
How about not putting any connector in. Leave some slack in the wire where you might put a connector in the future. If you ever need to remove the motor, cut the wires then crimp on the connectors at that time. You may never ever need them and if you do then do it at that time.
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