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  #1  
Old 03-03-2009, 10:25 PM
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Default dimpling R-704

How? It's eluding me.

How do you get the nail in the last holes to even get the close quarters dimple dies in? Is there another technique I can use?
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  #2  
Old 03-03-2009, 10:29 PM
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Default Vise grip dimpler

Avery sell a vice grip dimpler. I think I used that for many of the hard to get into rib end holes. It was a while ago though, so I could be wrong...
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  #3  
Old 03-03-2009, 10:31 PM
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If its the holes in the end of the ribs (I don't have my manual nearby), just flex the edge outwards a bit, then use the avery vice grip dimpler.
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  #4  
Old 03-03-2009, 10:34 PM
thilokind thilokind is offline
 
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Check out www.eaa.org under homebuilder hints - they have two very interesting videos in the sheet metal section about riveting and dimpling in close quarters. Wish, I would have known about that earlier....

Thilo
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  #5  
Old 03-04-2009, 04:25 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Shockwave View Post
How? It's eluding me.

How do you get the nail in the last holes to even get the close quarters dimple dies in? Is there another technique I can use?
Very simple, actually. Insert the nail through the hole located directly opposite the hole you want to dimple. Here is an example:

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Last edited by Rick6a : 03-04-2009 at 05:30 AM. Reason: insert photo
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  #6  
Old 03-04-2009, 08:45 AM
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The practice kit comes with instructions on how to do that. You drill a #40 hole in a steel plate and countersink it. Then slide the rib over the hole, put the male dimple die in the rib hole, put an appropriate size socket over the die to protect the shank, then smack it a couple times with a hammer. Voila, nice dimple, easy-peasy. If I new how to put a picture up I would.
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Last edited by Low & Slow : 03-04-2009 at 09:27 AM. Reason: Edited hole size.
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  #7  
Old 03-04-2009, 09:31 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Low & Slow View Post
The practice kit comes with instructions on how to do that. You drill a #40 hole in a steel plate and countersink it. Then slide the rib over the hole, put the male dimple die in the rib hole, put an appropriate size socket over the die, then smack it a couple times with a hammer. Voila, nice dimple, easy-peasy. If I new how to put a picture up I would.
I did a similar process with the practice kit but using a rivet and a flush set. Drill #40 hole into a sleet plate and countersink it. Slide rib over the hole, put appropriate AN426AD3 rivet into rib hole and 'bucking bar female dimple die'. Tap tap tap ...

Low and Slow ... is that a Weatherly as your avatar? I would love to fly one of those some day. Working my way into the hot seat of an Ag Truck for this season.
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Last edited by Adam Oke : 03-04-2009 at 09:59 AM. Reason: Drill Size ..
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  #8  
Old 03-04-2009, 05:39 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rick6a View Post
Very simple, actually. Insert the nail through the hole located directly opposite the hole you want to dimple. Here is an example:

Rick,
Did your nail head fit through the hole without also pulling through the dies? I tried this method and my nail pulled through the die with hardly any force.
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  #9  
Old 03-04-2009, 10:56 PM
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Thanks for the replies!

I tried the countersunk steel bar, and got a marginal result with the male die in the rivet gun. Kind of a mashup between the EAA videos and the suggestion here. I tried hitting the die with a hammer protected by a socket and got no result at all. (Didn't think I was hitting it that softly) Since it sounds like I'll need it elsewhere, I ordered the Avery vise-grip dies.
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  #10  
Old 03-05-2009, 05:36 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Shockwave View Post
Rick,
Did your nail head fit through the hole without also pulling through the dies? I tried this method and my nail pulled through the die with hardly any force.
Chanler,

I took your original post to mean you cannot find a way to insert the nail (used with the closed quarter dimple countersink) through the last rivet hole. That is the problem I addressed in my response. You now describe an entirely different problem. Normally the nail will break if too much force is applied. It can be a fine line between forming an "acceptable" countersink (which by design will not be as high quality or sharp as a regular dimple anyway) and breaking the nail trying to generate that good dimple. You have to learn to "massage" the puller and stop exerting pressure before the nail breaks. For that reason, I long ago started using common panel nails instead of the nails that are usually included with the close quarter set. Since they cost next to nothing, I break them with abandon. Unless the head of the nail was defective, in my experience they almost always break in two before pulling through the die as you report.

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