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12-25-2008, 08:25 AM
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Join Date: Feb 2005
Location: Chesterfield, Missouri
Posts: 4,514
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Larry tested this system quite extensively and the instructions say to mount the pipe holding brackets as close to the firewall as possible. I have mine suspended to the engine mount with 2 hangers with each pipe bracket and about an inch of rubber hose between the tubes. It seems quite secured for now, will post a couple images later this week.
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12-25-2008, 09:07 PM
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Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: Las Vegas, NV
Posts: 488
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OK here are the donuts, remember this is a 7A, but
This is what the Vetterman supplied donut looks like:
Installed this way, slightly different that what Larry suggests, but only in terms of the attach to the motor mount:
left side view looking right.

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Terry F.
RV 7A N457RV
250 hours and lovin it! 
Southern Nevada EAA Chapter 1300 - www.eaa1300.org
Paid VAF 03/17
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12-26-2008, 04:35 AM
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Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: Lake St. Louis, MO.
Posts: 2,346
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DATA POINT: Upon close FWF inspection following the very first engine start on the new IO-360-M1B fitted with Vetterman exhaust, the subsequent squawk was duly noted: The inappropriately sized adel clamp I installed to secure the engine mount and exhaust system managed to work its way up the engine mount causing the steel support tubes to separate from the rubber joint. SOLUTION: I replaced the adel clamp with the next smaller size clamp.
There is a significant amount of independent motion relative to the engine and its fixed mount. I am not that all that confident with the geometry of the present set up. Until reading this thread, was unaware of the donut option now being offered. Offering improved mounting seems to make perfect sense because the donut arrangement seems to directly address the squawk following the first engine run in N308R.
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Rick Galati
RV6A N307R"Darla!"
RV-8 N308R "LuLu"
EAA Technical Counselor
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12-31-2008, 05:58 PM
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Join Date: Mar 2006
Posts: 86
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adel clamp? does color mater?
Quote:
Originally Posted by Rick6a
The inappropriately sized adel clamp I installed to secure the engine mount and exhaust system managed to work its way up the engine mount causing the steel support tubes to separate from the rubber joint. SOLUTION: I replaced the adel clamp with the next smaller size clamp.
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Rick, Thanks for the heads up on the adel clamp. I noticed that mine is not completely snug either. I'll switch it out to the next smaller size.
Question: Does the color of adel clamp have anything to do with the heat it can withstand? Do I need to source a smaller size of white adel clamps? or will the black ones work just the same?
Different question: on my exhaust, pipes 1 & 3 just barely touch down where the ball joint is. I'm guessing I should have a 1/4" between the pipes minimum at all places. How should I go about makeing modifications to prevent them from touching? Since the contact is at the ball joint, swiveling the ball joint around won't help. Any sugestions?
-Brad Vier
rv-8 FWF
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12-31-2008, 07:50 PM
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Join Date: Sep 2007
Location: Socal
Posts: 106
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Pipe Support
Quote:
Originally Posted by flyingbeaver26
Here are a couple of pictures of my 4-pipe system in my -8. The exhaust is very nice quality. Having a little welding experience myself, I'd say these welds are flawless. My question is: I'm about to cut the steel support tube to length to support the lower half of the exhaust. Before I cut, I wanted to ask the forum to see if my placement looks to be acceptable. The 4-pipe system only comes with one strut to vertically support the two pipes. Thanks for your feedback.
-Brad

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Hi Brad,
Be sure to put some space between the tubes so the Rubber tube can do its work. I put a bead on the tubes so when I clamped it stopped slipping.
Mount the Exhaust to the Engine so it moves with the Engine ( Larry has some nice 4130 little brackets he sells. I have a RV6 with a 4 pipe system, and have been through several mods in the first 100 hours (you will not like Pipe #1 ratteling around in your cowl it vibrates alot) , email me if you need more info ( PS the Stainless pipes are hard to bead go slow)
Peter 
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10-15-2013, 11:59 AM
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Join Date: Nov 2008
Location: Louisiana
Posts: 50
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Exhaust Hanger
I have a 4 pipe system on my RV-6 and I need the part of the hanger that lays on top of the exhaust pipe. Can't seem to locate this part can someone point me in the right direction.
It's actually seen better in the post above this one. It is just a small flat piece with a bolt hole in the center that is welded to two curved pieces that lay against the top of the exhaust pipes.
Quote:
Originally Posted by flyingbeaver26
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Last edited by Bwing96 : 10-15-2013 at 12:05 PM.
Reason: Wron picture
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10-15-2013, 05:44 PM
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Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: houston, texas
Posts: 900
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Mercedes is good.
The donut that is shown comes from and is used on a long line of Mercedes, yes it is used to hang mufflers and pipes. What we try to do is reach up to the rear pan or sump bolts and make a small bracket to bolt up with them. this lets the engine and pipes move as one. We then trim the small support tubes to be within 3/8 or so of an inch to the ends of one another. When the hose is put on and clamped, it acts as a shock absorber, but does not have to fight the movement of the engine as much. You will be fine with either but the latter will last longer.. Yours as always R.E.A. III #80888
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10-15-2013, 07:31 PM
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Join Date: Jan 2006
Location: Winston-Salem, N.C.
Posts: 1,213
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What I did
I have the 4 pipe system on my -4 which would be pretty much the same set-up. I eliminated any support to the mount or airframe ( not to contradict anyone) and made supports that go from the pipe joiners (left and right support brackets) up to the rear sump corner bolts. I fabricated them from 3/8 stainless tubing threaded for Hiem ball joint rod ends that bolt to stainless steel tabs bent to the angle of the rod. I don't use any rubber in my mount. This keeps the system fairly ridged and moving with the engine, but never hits the cowl or airframe. So far, 200 hrs and no cracks or loosening of anything.
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Bill E.
RV-4/N76WE
8A7 / Advance NC
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10-16-2013, 06:52 AM
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Join Date: Jul 2009
Location: Mojave
Posts: 4,652
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I too use a rigid connection to support the collector on my exhaust. And I agree that you need to attach to the engine rather than the mount or airframe. There is just too much relative movement to do otherwise. My support is simply some 3/8 tube flattened at both ends and drilled for a bolt. The bolts are slightly loose and allow for some swivel action, but will fully support the weight of the pipes. 400+ hours, no issues yet.
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WARNING! Incorrect design and/or fabrication of aircraft and/or components may result in injury or death. Information presented in this post is based on my own experience - Reader has sole responsibility for determining accuracy or suitability for use.
Michael Robinson
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Harmon Rocket II -SDS EFI
RV-8 - SDS CPI
1940 Taylorcraft BL-65
1984 L39C
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10-16-2013, 10:04 AM
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Join Date: Apr 2011
Location: Cincinnati, OH
Posts: 2,791
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slight flare on the exhaust mount tubes?
I put a slight flare on the exhaust mount tube ends. I don't know the value but it seemed to be in the direction of goodness. 25 hr. and no movement in this tubes.
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Steve Melton
Cincinnati, OH
RV-9A, Tip-up, Superior O-320, roller lifters, 160HP, WW 200RV, dual impulse slick mags, oil pressure = 65 psi, EGT = 1300F, flight hours = 800+ for all
Simplicity is the art in design.
My Artwork is freely given and published and cannot be patented.
www.rvplasticparts.com
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