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  #1  
Old 11-13-2008, 08:14 PM
What-Now-Ski's Avatar
What-Now-Ski What-Now-Ski is offline
 
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Location: Palm Beach Gardens, FL
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Default How do I dimple the aileron leading edge???

I'm trying to figure out the best way to dimple the leading edge of the the aileron skin....right where the skin meets up with the counterbalance. I'm having difficulty getting anything in there to dimple with and the DRDT-2 certainly isn't working. Any hints would be greatly appreciated!!!
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  #2  
Old 11-13-2008, 08:21 PM
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What I did for this is countersink the galvanized pipe for the pop rivets. Next I clecoed the skin to the galvanized pipe. I put an extension on the 1/8" male dimple die out of a threaded rod. I put the dimple die in the hole and wacked the threaded rod a few times with a hammer. The countersunk galvanized pipe acts like the female dimple die.

I took some pics of how I did it here:

http://www.rvplane.com/?categoryid=3&dayid=291
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  #3  
Old 11-13-2008, 08:25 PM
SportAvServ SportAvServ is offline
 
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Location: Ione, California
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Default aileron dimpley thingy

A simple way would be to drill the holes throught the skin in to the counter balance pipe. Remove the pipe and counter sink the holes and deburr every thing. Cleco the counter weight back in every other hole. Try putting an An426 rivit an just tap it with a hammer, the counter weigh will be the die for the counter sink. Yes you will destroy a couple of rivits, and maybe you might modify a #6 screw to do the dimpling.

Hope it helps.

RT
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  #4  
Old 11-13-2008, 09:12 PM
borislav borislav is offline
 
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Location: San Jose, CA
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Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by bullojm1 View Post
What I did for this is countersink the galvanized pipe for the pop rivets. Next I clecoed the skin to the galvanized pipe. I put an extension on the 1/8" male dimple die out of a threaded rod. I put the dimple die in the hole and wacked the threaded rod a few times with a hammer. The countersunk galvanized pipe acts like the female dimple die.
I'm not there yet, but it sounds like a job for this tool:

http://www.averytools.com/p-617-dimp...block-set.aspx

Yeah, I'm a tool junkie.
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  #5  
Old 11-13-2008, 09:22 PM
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How about a pop-rivet dimpler?
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Mel Asberry, DAR since the last century.
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  #6  
Old 11-13-2008, 09:29 PM
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bullojm1 bullojm1 is offline
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mel View Post
How about a pop-rivet dimpler?
Mel-

The female die would "ding" the inside of the skin since the skin is pre-bent for the radius of the pipe.
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  #7  
Old 11-13-2008, 11:28 PM
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morlino morlino is offline
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bullojm1 View Post
Mel-

The female die would "ding" the inside of the skin since the skin is pre-bent for the radius of the pipe.
Yes, it will. And so will the small female dimple die that comes with the avery kit - http://www.averytools.com/pc-578-17-...mple-dies.aspx.

Shipping on the replacement leading edge skin is as expensive as the replacement skin itself - I think about $25 for the skin and about $25 for shipping. It comes in a nice wooden souvenir box though

(When I did it the 2nd and 3rd times around) I counter sunk the pipe, cleco'd the skin to the pipe and dimpled the skin with a center punch I had that approximated the angle.
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  #8  
Old 11-14-2008, 02:59 AM
8CW 8CW is offline
 
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I used the method Chad Jensen used on his -7 and it worked out well.

http://www.chadandbrittne.com/Octobe...ct%2015-06.htm
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  #9  
Old 11-14-2008, 06:17 AM
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zspivey zspivey is offline
 
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Default Do you need to dimple the aileron leading edge?

I Just re-read the section on the aileron leading edge. For the RV-8, the instructions say, "Machine countersink the holes in the counterbalance pipe. The countersink need not be 120 degrees to match that of the rivet heads. The .20" skin and the aluminum blind rivet will deform sufficiently to contour to a 100 degree countersunk hole."
When assembled, the leading edge will not be visible.
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  #10  
Old 11-18-2008, 04:11 PM
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What-Now-Ski What-Now-Ski is offline
 
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Default Thanks all

Thanks for the input! I ended up using Mike Bullock's method and it worked out great!
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