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POSTING RULES

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10-15-2008, 07:02 AM
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Join Date: Mar 2006
Location: Newport, TN
Posts: 7,496
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Today I worked on getting the top drilled to the hinges and worked on the fit of the bottom.
I ensured that I had the top exactly where I wanted it and proceeded to drill the top hinges. I left ~1/16 gap for paint. I started in the middle and worked down the sides.
I think when I rivet the hinges on, I will put some flat strip stock in to hide the gaps where there is no hinge material. I think this will loook better and camouflage those areas once it is painted.
I then lifted the bottom up into place and ensured a nice fit to the top and then marked for the bottom trim line and the bottom hinges.
I cut the bottom from the sides just up to the radius of the exhaust outlet area. I will leave that part long till later.
I then drilled and clecoed the bottom hinges. Put the bottom back on and drilled and clecoed the hinge to the bottom cowl.
Like all the other hinges I have drilled, I am going to the limit on edge distance on the holes in an effort to hide the eylets of the hinge behind the glass. This little stickout seems to do that quite well.
Next session I will work on the horizontal fit between the two halves. I will not cut the overlap off of the bottom sides where they overlap the fuse till I have the horizontal hinge installed.
To be continued....
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10-15-2008, 07:06 AM
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Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: Blue Ridge, Georgia
Posts: 247
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Top Cowl Spacer
I used a tip I got from Bill Repucci... Use two rolls of paper towels, one on each side sitting on the cylinders. Bounty worked great!
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10-15-2008, 07:14 AM
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Join Date: May 2007
Location: St. Helens OR
Posts: 429
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Thanks Brian
I am just about to start on my cowl, what a help your updates will be, thanks for the great writeup.
Randy
Finishing, wiring, 8A
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10-15-2008, 09:17 AM
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Join Date: Feb 2007
Location: Shepherdsville, KY
Posts: 280
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Ditto
Brian,
Receiving my replacement Pepto cowl from Van's today. Your step-by-step photo essay could not have been more perfectly timed. Man, have you lowered my stress level on fitting the cowling. You are the Man, keep up the good work, and again THANKS for your postings. VAF ROCKS!
Mike H 9A/8A 
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10-15-2008, 04:42 PM
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Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: Utah
Posts: 8,144
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One more THANK YOU Brian
I will start my cowling in three weeks and your sequence of operations and tips on spacing look optimal.
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10-15-2008, 05:11 PM
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Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: Arkansas
Posts: 1,505
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I will pick up my finish kit in the morning so a canopy is in my near future. Like many others I would like to thank you for you efforts to help. Great job!
__________________
Jim Wright
RV-9A N9JW 90919 SoldArkansas
http://www.jimsairplanes.com
_______________________
"It's a brutal struggle for the biscuit."
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10-16-2008, 11:47 AM
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Join Date: Jun 2006
Posts: 33
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Brian, great illustration...I have done 6 installs on RV's and still am learning. Especially like the book spacer idea.
A thought on the split line between the upper and lower.
You are at the point where you are going to cut the horizontal line between the upper and lower cowl. Consider creating a water line between the front lip and the rear of the plane.(level the plane) This provides a great place on the cowl for paint line considerations. I used this on my RV8 and XB-51-8 to visually hide the split between the upper and lower cowls. See my web
www.ramairforhomebuilts.com
Getting ready to help a friend do his RV6 and will have him follow your lead. Rod XB-51-8
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10-18-2008, 03:18 PM
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Join Date: Mar 2006
Location: Newport, TN
Posts: 7,496
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Yesturday I got started trimming the lower cowl to fit the upper one. Out of the box, the upper cowl's outer lower edge seems to be where they intended the split line to be.
I sanded the upper cowl's edge straight using a very long sanding block.
Then I put it all back on the plane and marked the cut line on the bottom cowl that was underlapped by the top.
Put it all back together to check the fit. I sanded the bottoms edge straight with the long block.
Now you can finally see how the areas around the outsides of the inlets are going to fit. These are pretty good. Just a small amount of filler will make them nice.

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10-18-2008, 03:23 PM
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Join Date: Mar 2006
Location: Newport, TN
Posts: 7,496
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10-18-2008, 03:30 PM
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Join Date: Mar 2006
Location: Newport, TN
Posts: 7,496
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Then I marked, cut, and sanded the aft sides of the bottom to the firewall. Used packing tape to hold the hinge straight for drilling.
Once the side was cut and I had a paint line relief sanded in, I marked and drilled the aft side hinges on the bottom.
And thats about it! I call the fitting complete on this cowl!
Just a little more cosmetic work to do and after riveting on the hinges, I get to do several hours of pinhole filling!
I started on this a couple hours Monday night and worked on it a couple hours each Tuesday and Friday evening and about 5 hours today to get to this point.
If your following this, good luck with yours and your results may vary 
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