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  #1  
Old 10-01-2008, 08:23 PM
Webb's Avatar
Webb Webb is offline
 
Join Date: Oct 2007
Location: Jackson, MS
Posts: 1,262
Default Tip: Installing wing bolts

I've been through the threads and here is what I've gathered about installing the wing bolts. Considering my target date is Oct 11th (will have to record all those SEC football games), I'm hoping for the best and expecting the worst and probably will get something in between.

It's a pain, tight fit, worthy of a sailor's tongue, but can be made more bearable.

1 - Bolts need to be cold. Freezer or dry ice to shrink them ever so slightly.
2 - Shaft of the bolt needs lubrication. Do not get on threads.
3 - Top drives easier than bottom.
4 - Do not push through very far, esp on the bottom so you can get the nut on.
5 - Rivet gun is a miracle worker for the bottom bolts.
6 - Super glue and popcycle stick makes a pretty fair nut holder till it starts.
7 - Magnet on a stick is your friend for those escapees.
8 - A slight wiggling of the wing is most helpful. Don't raise too much unless you want to repair the skin.
9 - Beer, lots of it for you and the help.
10 - Learn new cuss words, they help maintain sanity.
11 - Be prepared to set the world record on how long it can take to install a bolt and nut.
12 - An air rachet is helpful for getting most of it done, then your torque wrench.
13 - Don't forget the 2 smaller bolts on each wing.
14 - Tighten from the outboard side to the centerline.
15 - Look at the plans CAREFULLY and make sure you put the washers on the correct side. It is different depending on the bolt location.
16 - Other idiots besides yourself have been able to do this. Use their lessons above so you won't feel like one.

Have I missed anything?
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Webb Willmott
Jackson, MS
N32WW
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  #2  
Old 10-01-2008, 08:33 PM
alpinelakespilot2000 alpinelakespilot2000 is offline
 
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Posts: 3,646
Default

You will need to use drift pins. Hardware store bolts with the threads ground off will do the trick. It sounds like you're putting them on for good but, if not, there's no reason to use the NAS bolts. Good luck.
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  #3  
Old 10-02-2008, 01:02 AM
lorne green lorne green is offline
 
Join Date: Dec 2005
Location: Oliver, B.C. Canada (Okanagan valley)
Posts: 786
Default wing attach

So, how many times will we have to re and re the wings? Once in the shop to set up control rods, final set up of fuel lines, final electrical? Then once at the airport?
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  #4  
Old 10-02-2008, 04:13 AM
tinman tinman is offline
 
Join Date: Aug 2005
Posts: 496
Default

Hold off on the beer until the job is done...the warnog makes the job seem like it is going well when it may not be...
I used some wood dowels with rounded nose as starters an just let them serve as "pathfinders" for the bolts that follow them through. Just push out the dowels with the bolts.
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  #5  
Old 10-02-2008, 04:50 AM
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Webb Webb is offline
 
Join Date: Oct 2007
Location: Jackson, MS
Posts: 1,262
Default Drift Pins

Quote:
Originally Posted by alpinelakespilot2000 View Post
You will need to use drift pins. Hardware store bolts with the threads ground off will do the trick. It sounds like you're putting them on for good but, if not, there's no reason to use the NAS bolts. Good luck.
Didn't put the drift pins on the list! I forgot to take them to the airport. It is the last time - can I get an AMEN!!

It's due to come out of the paint shop late next week. Wings are getting shot today but he want's to keep them hanging for a few days until back in craddle for transport. Doesn't want to risk a mark in the paint.

I might look at the wooden dowel ideal. I have a punch that was a tremendous help for getting the holes lined up. It is just a few thousands small and gave me something that I was able to joggle the holes to get alligned and get the test bolts in when I was fitting. Technically, it was what I used for my drift pin. Once I got one test bolt in, the rest just fell into place.

On the beer - there might be one coldie slipped in on the way. However, the bulk is for the victory dance.

As far as the re re the wings, mine was 1 fit and remove. I'm going from memory right now but I don't recall anything penitrating the spar that would interfer with the area of attachment. If I recall correctly, the holes for passage of wires is just inboard and shouldn't interferr. I also don't recall any holes in the wing spare like that either.
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N32WW
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  #6  
Old 10-02-2008, 05:06 AM
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pierre smith pierre smith is offline
 
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Location: Louisville, Ga
Posts: 7,840
Default Yes......

Quote:
Originally Posted by Webb View Post
.

.........Have I missed anything?
You mentioned an air ratchet....

....Don't turn the bolts if you can get to the nut. Aircraft practice is to turn the nut because rotating a bolt can scratch it and cause stress risers down the road.

Regards,
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Pierre Smith
RV-10, 510 TT
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Air Tractor AT 502B PT 6-15 Sold
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  #7  
Old 10-02-2008, 06:31 AM
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N941WR N941WR is offline
 
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Location: SC
Posts: 12,887
Default

Add wood blocks (oak) to protect things when banging on them with the rivet gun.

I would also bring a 3 lb sledge hammer, just in case.

Wood dowels work to punch out the "drift pins". Then again, put these in backwards and drive them out with the final bolts.

PS. Don't forget the four AN4-13A bolts you need for the spars, two on each side. Read this thread for details.
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RV-9 (Yes, it's a dragon tail)
O-360 w/ dual P-mags
Build the plane you want, not the plane others want you to build!
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Last edited by N941WR : 10-02-2008 at 06:35 AM.
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  #8  
Old 10-02-2008, 06:58 AM
Steve Steve is offline
 
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: Roy, Utah
Posts: 1,144
Default and

1. You will need 1 cheapo bolt or drift pin per side. This will give the wing something to pivot around when you put in the first NAS bolt.
2. I used 1/4" and 3/8" drive air ratchets.
3. I didn't bother with the frozen bolt. Verify the NAS bolts go through the center section and the wing spar BEFORE you fit the wings.
4. I've a -9A. A large screwdriver wedged below/between the nut and the gear leg weldment keeps the nut from turning. 'Cause ain't no way you're gonna get a socket / standard wrench on those outboard nuts when you torque them.
5. Driving/tapping with the yellow/red plastic hammer should be all you need to get the bolts through. If you're reaching for the 10 pound mallet, there's something wrong.

Steve
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  #9  
Old 10-02-2008, 07:02 AM
DGlaeser DGlaeser is offline
 
Join Date: May 2005
Location: Rochester Hills, MI
Posts: 879
Default Need a ground-down wrench...

Quote:
Originally Posted by pierre smith View Post
You mentioned an air ratchet....
....Don't turn the bolts if you can get to the nut. Aircraft practice is to turn the nut because rotating a bolt can scratch it and cause stress risers down the road.
Regards,
All of the angst is over the lower bolts where it's tough to even see the nuts, and you need a ground-down open end wrench to even hold them. Turning those nuts would require violating a few laws of physics...

I didn't see the ground-down wrench on the list of tools

If you haven't done so yet, be sure to insert the NAS bolts in all of the holes prior to assembly. Sometimes the anodizing inside the holes needs to be polished away a bit.
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RV-7A - Eggenfellner H6, GRT Sport ES, EIS4000, 300XL, SL30, TT Gemini, PMA6000, AK950L, GT320,
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  #10  
Old 10-02-2008, 07:58 AM
Webb's Avatar
Webb Webb is offline
 
Join Date: Oct 2007
Location: Jackson, MS
Posts: 1,262
Default From the sound of it

It sounds like this is one of those moments in a builder's like that may try a man's soul!! I'm not really worried about it, just a bit apprehensive.

Lots of good tips here. Now all I really need are some experienced wing putter oners that want to show me how it's done. Did I ever tell you the story about Tom Sawyer..........
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N32WW
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