Tools: Pneumatic vs Battery

[gmpaul]

I believe it is what you are used to or whatever you are most comfortable using (pneumatic or battery powered drills). I used a porter cable 12v, almost entirely, building my (9). Personally I don't like dragging around hoses or extension cords. Although I could not have made it without a drill press.
G.P.

[az_gila]

...buy the smallest/lightest one you can find, and a 1/4 inch chuck is fine.

All good models will have a "teasing" trigger - which some Sears ones don't...

It's then much more convienient to use, and you will use it more....

A short (4 ft) section of very flexible hose at the end of your long hose will make a wonder of difference.

[osxuser]

Once you use one, you will thank yourself many times over for buying air tools! They are WAY better than electric battery operated.

[alpinelakespilot2000]

I'm not sure about this clunky heavy hose thing that some people are complaining about above, but my Sioux drill will be one of those tools that someone will have to pry out of my cold dead fingers someday (along with the DRDT2 and Main Squeeze).

I do use a nice (relatively) lightweight 12V cordless occasionally, but usually just because I don't want to swap out bits. I can't imagine drilling wing or fuselage skins with a cordless drill!

[RudiGreyling]

My 2cents worth of experience builiding 1 RV7.

Air drills has high speed RPM giving cleaner drill cuts on smaller holes #40 and #30. (If I remember correctly I've read somewhere, to lazy to go find it now, ideal aluminum alloy cutting speed for #40 is +/- 7,000 RPM! Airdrills get you close to more than 1/2 that, but electric drills typically not) (#30 holes ion Alu was the sweet spot for airdrill mathcing airdrill speeds +/- 3500 RPM if I remember correctly)
Battery drill for BIG slow countersink the torq is linear so they make good slow speed cutting.
Electric drill for BIG holes where you need torq power but not extreme high speed. (Don't tease the trigger on electric drills and big holes!)
On Really big holes use your small Bench Drill press and slow it down with the mechanical belt and pulleys in the head of the unit.

Electric AC (alternating current) drill with teasing trigger are the worst for countersinking. The teasing trigger cuts the AC electric wave pulses to slow it down what it means it goes stops, goes stops, many times a second and gives a bad result on countersinking. Use your battery DC (direct current) drill teasing trigger for constant linear torq power effect when you want to go slow.

Regards
Rudi

[videobobk]

As I understand it, the main reason for pneumatic drills in the aircraft industry was to prevent a worn cord from arcing and burning a hole in the aluminum. Sounds like a pretty good reason, not even counting the chance of getting shocked. Dragging a cord over a sharp edge could do that.

If you go pneumatic, get swivels and the light hose (Cleveland Tool has one) and you will hardly know you are "attached." To me, Sioux drills are the way to go, although with the 12 you may not need one.

Bob Kelly

[ebrendan]

Thanks to all of you for really excellent comments. Your insights are greatly appreciated.

- Brendan

[leeschaumberg]

Hello
Aluminum drilling is best done by turning the bit faster than 3000 rpm. Also that air compressor will come in handy to air up the tires.

[PropellerHead]

Originally Posted by Peterk

having finished the 12 wings my favorite tools/equip were:
...
12. wasp spray

Pete

I have found a better wasp spray. Way more efficient and less harmful for the guy spraying.

Paslode air tool cleaner.

Since wasps bodies are part of their respiratory system, one short spritz and they are dead before they hit the floor.

Works good on the air tools too.