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  #11  
Old 07-27-2008, 11:23 PM
Flying Scotsman Flying Scotsman is offline
 
Join Date: Nov 2005
Posts: 1,256
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Quote:
Originally Posted by danielhv View Post
I've tried both ways... when I'm pounding them, I make sure the bucking bar is perpendicular to the rivet... and tap slow... but it just wont set straight. I've placed an order for another spar and the two ribs... I'm going to rivet the rib to the spar first before I rivet the two ribs together... that should eliminate the problem with not being able to get the squeezer in there straight...
My first guess would align with a previous poster...rivets are too long (which will make them bend over in a heartbeat). Get yourself one of these

http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalo...engthgauge.php

and check to see if they're too long. Van's plans are not *always* perfectly correct on rivet lengths (e.g., we often end up using 426AD3-4s instead of 3.5s on skins-to-ribs, maybe because two layers of primer make the thickness *just enough* more than would take a 3.5. The opposite is true sometimes, as well. My latest example? The rivets for the rod ends on the bellcrank-to-aileron pushrods. WAY too long, bent over something terrible. Lesson learned.

I assume you're doing this yourself, which takes some practice, when you pound them...it can be hard to make sure that the gun, the rivet and the bar are all in a straight line. Might be time to get a bucking buddy for a while until you get the hang of it, but you will.

The previous poster's advice on turning the gun down was also spot on...too much hammering, especially when doing it single-handed, can make things jump around too much to control.

Don't know if I can add much more than that to what everyone else has said...hang in there.
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  #12  
Old 07-27-2008, 11:39 PM
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AntiGravity AntiGravity is offline
 
Join Date: Dec 2005
Location: Hamilton, New Zealand
Posts: 632
Default Clamp it down too...

...another hint which I find useful when rivetting alone, is to ensure the work is clamped down to the bend, held in a vice or whatever. That way you only need to worry about the rivetting and not the work moving around on you at the same time. Seems simple enough, but many is the time I thought I could get away without holding the work securely. It is always easier when clamped down.

Oh, and if you use that offset rivet set; I've found it a major help to duct tape the rivet set to the spring retainer in the position I want. That way it deosn't spin on me while bucking, which has also caused me problems in the past. Actually, I hate that offset rivet set so much I will almost always wait until Jackie can buck for me, no matter how simple the job seems. I just don't get on well with it...
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  #13  
Old 07-28-2008, 03:42 AM
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Jamie Jamie is offline
 
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: Atlanta, GA
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rocketboy View Post
2. Never drill a hole after 9 pm. To this day I haven't drilled a hole after 9PM that didn't result in an "awe sh*t".
Truer words have never been spoken!

Keep up the work, Daniel. Don't become overly frustrated. There are so many frustrations ahead. Sometimes you just have to laugh it off and grit your teeth when you order new parts. Put it this way: I built my plane for cash (I am not wealthy!) so each penny counted for me. I never, ever regretted buying a new part, even the $200.00 canopy frame that I botched all the Hades and back! It's worth it to know that you know that you know that you did it right.

Believe me, when you look back at your completed airplane all of those frustrations are just a distant, faint memory.

Build on, brother!
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  #14  
Old 07-28-2008, 06:23 AM
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Webb Webb is offline
 
Join Date: Oct 2007
Location: Jackson, MS
Posts: 1,262
Default Tight spot rivet removal

Instead of butchering up a hole by drilling out a rivet in a tight spot, grind it out. A Dremel tool with an abrasive cut off wheel makes a dandy grinder that you can get in tight spots.

Grind off the head (if not contersunk) or the hammered end (or both) and punch it out. Take time not to gouge the metal around it.

If you can get your squeezer on it, it will push the rivet out without hardly any effort, otherwise - punch.
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  #15  
Old 07-28-2008, 11:44 AM
RScott RScott is offline
 
Join Date: Aug 2005
Location: Estacada, OR
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This might be a good time to make some acquaintances and get some help. I see Denton isn't far away from Little Elm. There are half a dozen builders in Denton, according to the RV White Pages--see the VAF home page, left side listings. May be some folks in other nearby towns, especially on your side of Dallas. One or more of those folks might be happy to come give you a hand and maybe a couple tips. Then you'll also have a resource for other problems that will certainly come up and there will be times where you will certainly want some help, so now is as good a time as any to make contacts.
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  #16  
Old 07-28-2008, 12:28 PM
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frankh frankh is offline
 
Join Date: Jul 2006
Location: Corvallis Oregon
Posts: 3,547
Default Couldn't agree more

I had a friend building the tail on his Glastar he was terrified to bashing the rivets on his nice new tail.

So I went over there...I had him amking perfect rivets in 10 minutes..I then showed him how to do those "impossible to get to" rivets using the offset sets.

A couple of hours and he was flying.
Riveting is one of those "how on Earth does anyone do this...Oh thats how..Oh gee this is easy"..deals

Once you got it there will be no stopping you..

Frank
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