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POSTING RULES

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04-14-2008, 11:33 AM
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Join Date: Nov 2006
Location: carson city nv
Posts: 52
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Rv 10 doors
Thanks for the extra shots. Over the week end I met with a designer and a A/P. We spent several hours working the doors with different pressures. They seem to do well untill all of a sudden we achieved failure.I stressed them hard. When simulating the buldge( if you will,) i blew the door right out. I ripped right through the teflon guides. In all we determined the pins are strong enough just not long enough.A center latch is a must for me. I'm constructing a mod to the handle to give added strenth to the panel with out cutting the door.This device will be easy to install over the existing handle and create a three point door lock and help line up the pins for a secure fit. I also used a different sensor with a ground break to insure all pins are where they are supposed to be. So far so good,I ordered new rods from Vans last week and I will install a little longer with less angle, and replace the teflon with stainless steel blocks. Thanks again Dave RV-10
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04-15-2008, 08:32 PM
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Join Date: Feb 2008
Location: Canberra
Posts: 13
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RV10 doors
Hi Dave
I love the way ideas come out of these forums - after reading your post I will be replacing my door pins with ones that have hardly any angle or chamfer at the ends - I think an excessive angle may well be part of the reason that the doors can fail in-flight - as the doors bulge or flex outwards, eventually the chamfered ends of the pins ride up and pop out. With a central latch providing initial door closure, there is no need for excessive pin chamfer because the latch holds the door closed and the pins have no option but to go into their holes.
Thanks for the tip!
Cheers
Andre
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07-26-2008, 01:59 PM
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Join Date: Mar 2005
Location: Calgary, Canada
Posts: 5,745
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Billet Door Pin Lock Photos?
Anyone have some photos of the Rivethead/ Ifly billet door pin locks mounted? How do you like them? Did you cut the rods off at the start of the taper for the threads of the stainless shaft nose pieces.
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07-26-2008, 03:15 PM
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Join Date: Jan 2006
Location: Ogden Utah
Posts: 161
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Here is a picture of a Rivethead one. I cut/shortened my rods to where they do not go past the door frame. If the pins are extended with the door open and the door is closed, the skin of the airplane is not beat up. Sorry, this is the best picture I have.

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07-26-2008, 06:15 PM
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Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: Albany, GA for the moment
Posts: 294
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I don't have a picture handy, but I left my rods longer. I basically just cut off the angled portion plus enough so that the pins don't hit the blocks when you shut the door. I left them long enough that they protrude through the cabin structure by about 3/8"
PJ Seipel
RV-10 #40032
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07-26-2008, 09:16 PM
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Join Date: Jan 2006
Location: New Smyrna Beach, FL
Posts: 1,339
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I have the IflyRV10 blocks and left the rods as long as possible. They protrude the length of the screw-in pin with the magnet in the tip plus a touch more past the structure. They just clear the blocks with the door handle in the open position. Don't have pictures available right now, but will send some when I get home.
Yes, they will probably ding up the door frame/paint if someone tries to shut the door with the handle in the "closed" position, but I am pretty comfortable that the doors will not open in flight. I also have the IflyRV10 billet handles and locks and am very happy with them.
__________________
David Maib
RV-10 N380DM
New Smyrna Beach, FL
VAF Paid 1/21/2020
"In '69 I was 21, and I called the road my own"
Jackson Browne
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07-27-2008, 09:22 AM
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Join Date: Mar 2005
Location: Calgary, Canada
Posts: 5,745
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I'll trim my pushrods to leave as long as possible. I had to mill down the plates a bit to clear the doors. I've also devised a simple safety lock which comes down with the main handle as extra insurance.
No way I want to do another set of doors! They are a nasty job- almost as bad as the cabin top.
Thanks for the feedback guys.
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08-04-2008, 02:34 PM
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Join Date: Mar 2005
Location: Calgary, Canada
Posts: 5,745
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Simple Safety Latch Design
I've seen some complicated supplementary latch designs here. I just added a couple strips of 3/16 X 1.25 aluminum 90 degrees to the main latching handle. As the handle goes down, these overlap the door jamb directly below. Dirt simple and nothing to fuss with. A lot safer if a passenger had to get out in an emergency.
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08-04-2008, 04:09 PM
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Join Date: Oct 2005
Location: Savannah, GA
Posts: 1,849
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rv6ejguy
I've seen some complicated supplementary latch designs here. I just added a couple strips of 3/16 X 1.25 aluminum 90 degrees to the main latching handle. As the handle goes down, these overlap the door jamb directly below. Dirt simple and nothing to fuss with. A lot safer if a passenger had to get out in an emergency.
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Pictures? You know it's against the rules to come up with a new design and not post pictures with it! 
__________________
Todd
N110TD
RV-10 Vesta V8 LS2/BMA EFIS/One formerly flying at 3J1 Hobbs stopped at 150 hours
Savannah, GA and Ridgeland, SC
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08-04-2008, 05:36 PM
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Join Date: Mar 2005
Location: Calgary, Canada
Posts: 5,745
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I'll snap some tomorrow and try to post them here.
Anyone could retrofit these easily. Just have to remove the handles and drill two holes through them with a drill press.
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