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07-19-2008, 10:37 PM
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Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: Blue Ridge, Georgia
Posts: 247
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Airflow Performance Install on IO-360
Does anyone have install pictures of how they installed the servo on an IO-360? I have tried to understand how you run the fuel line from the controller up to the servo/purge valve. My servo has the intake on the servo pointed down between the #1 and #3 cylinders and I don't think that can be right.
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07-20-2008, 12:45 AM
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Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: Port Angeles, Wash
Posts: 372
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Servo
Is the servo for updraft or horz induction. My servo is for horz induction and will be going up through the intercylinder baffle and 2/4 cylinders. The flow divider will mount down from the middle of the case and nestled in between the cylinders. This way keeps it out of the exhaust areas. I have seen some that go all the way to the back of the engine and then thru the back of the baffling.
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07-20-2008, 08:13 AM
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Join Date: Dec 2007
Location: Flagstaff, AZ
Posts: 2,647
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Sounds like he has the vertical. Going down between the cylinders is correct. At the Superior build school, we drilled a hole in the inter-cylinder baffle for the hose before installing the baffle. You should also have some clamps that will allow you to clamp the fuel line to the intake tube(s) to keep it off the exhausts. Also, the purge fitting points straight back. They didn't supply a hose for that, but I ordered 3' of 601 and ran it back through the rear baffle and down to the bottom cowling, where I will use a bulkhead fitting to exit the engine compartment.
I don't have a really great picture of my installation but maybe this will help: 
You can see the firesleeved line coming down and clamped at the corner of the sump and then again on the aft intake tube before continuing on to the throttle body. It also shares a clamping point on the forward intake tube with the prop oil line. What I can't show you is that the servo fitting and hole in the baffle are positioned so that the line goes straight down without touching either cylinder, but you can figure that out yourself.
__________________
Patrick Kelley - Flagstaff, AZ
RV-6A N156PK - Flying too much to paint
RV-10 14MX(reserved) - Fuselage on gear
http://www.mykitlog.com/flion/
EAA Technical Counselor #5357
Last edited by flion : 07-20-2008 at 08:32 AM.
Reason: Adding picture
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07-20-2008, 10:40 AM
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Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: Blue Ridge, Georgia
Posts: 247
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Intercylinder Baffle
Yes, exactly, but how do you penetrate the ICB with the fuel line? Is there a high temp grommet of some type that would protect the hose? It just seems weird that you would have a fuel line running between cylinders.
BTW, Aden, I got the engine together finally!
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07-20-2008, 10:53 AM
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Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: Blue Ridge, Georgia
Posts: 247
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Pictures
Patrick,
Do you have any more pics I can see? As you know...a thousand words.
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07-20-2008, 11:39 AM
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Join Date: Dec 2007
Location: Flagstaff, AZ
Posts: 2,647
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I'm afraid that's the best I've got. Lots of stuff in the way, you know. The hole at the ICB is just big enough for the fuel line. I should probably have asked Superior but I was a bit overwhelmed with all I was learning at the build school and I just assumed that the close fit with the fire-sleeve was enough to prevent chafing. I've got a couple of A&Ps checking in on me from time to time; I'll ask them next time I see them.
__________________
Patrick Kelley - Flagstaff, AZ
RV-6A N156PK - Flying too much to paint
RV-10 14MX(reserved) - Fuselage on gear
http://www.mykitlog.com/flion/
EAA Technical Counselor #5357
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07-20-2008, 12:02 PM
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Join Date: Mar 2007
Location: Corvallis Oregon.
Posts: 680
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I think I understand what you're asking and yes there is a perforation in the baffle between the cylinders with a large rubber gromet for the fuel line to pass. Lots of air passes that area and cooling seems not to be a problem so long as you keep the bird nests out of there  . I drilled my own baffle but I understand you can get the baffle ready to go as a Lycoming part.
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07-21-2008, 07:49 AM
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Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: Blue Ridge, Georgia
Posts: 247
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Intercylinder Baffles
Just spoke with Don at AFP and he verified that I need to drill a hole in the intercylinder baffle and protect the fire-sleeved fuel line with a plain' ol rubber grommet. It just don't seem right... 
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11-06-2018, 03:06 PM
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Join Date: Jul 2007
Location: Litchfield Park, AZ
Posts: 1,017
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Intercylinder baffle grommet
I know this is an old thread but for those who run into it now and then will now have a pic of the ICB between #1 and #3 with grommet and -4 fuel line from TS Flightlines. I'm a visual guy too and pics help alot.

__________________
Carlos in Arizona
EAA Chapter 538 www.chapters.eaa.org/eaa538
Wittman Tailwind W8 N53CH (built & sold)
Pazmany PL-1 N2029 (bought & sold)
RV7 - N537TC (reserved & building)
Emp, Wings & Fuse done - working on FWF
"The air is an extremely dangerous, jealous and exacting mistress. Once under the spell most lovers are faithful to the end, which is not always old age." - Winston Churchill
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11-06-2018, 03:31 PM
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Join Date: Sep 2007
Location: BC
Posts: 1,673
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Instead of a rubber O-ring, I riveted an aluminum flange commonly used for a scat tube. The flange had a nice curved edge to protect the fuel line.
Bevan
__________________
RV7A Flying since 2015
O-360-A1F6 (parallel valve) 180HP
Dual P-mags
Precision F.I. with AP purge valve
Vinyl Wrapped Exterior
Grand Rapids EFIS
Located in western Canada
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