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  #1  
Old 03-27-2008, 08:34 PM
Webb's Avatar
Webb Webb is offline
 
Join Date: Oct 2007
Location: Jackson, MS
Posts: 1,262
Default Inlet ducts pictures wanted

Vans spends an entire page on the importance of the inlet ducts. However, how to install is a weak. Would someone mind sharing a few pictures of a set of installed ducts please?

Webb
7A = N32WW
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  #2  
Old 03-27-2008, 08:45 PM
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Jim P Jim P is offline
 
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What engine, FI, or carbed, and vertical or horizontal induction?

Jim
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  #3  
Old 03-28-2008, 10:34 AM
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Webb Webb is offline
 
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Location: Jackson, MS
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Default engine type

Superior IO360, horizontal induction. These are the 2 pieces of fiberglass that are trapzoid shaped that get epoxied to the top cowl.
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  #4  
Old 03-28-2008, 11:06 AM
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Rick6a Rick6a is offline
 
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Location: Lake St. Louis, MO.
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Webb View Post
............ Would someone mind sharing a few pictures of a set of installed ducts please?......
Sure. The left photo shows the ramps installed to support the vertically mounted carburetor on the O-320. The photo on right shows the ramps supporting the horizontally inducted IO-360. As you can see, the placement is virtually identical.....ergo....engine config/type is generally a non-issue. I'm sure there are any number of ways to install the duct ramps and others may have approached the task differently. I interpreted the instructions by butting the ramps up to the intake flanges that are molded into the upper cowl and then using West epoxy to lay in 2 layers of cloth centered between the upper surface of the parts. There is enough room to reach in there and apply the cloth. Later, a bit of filler was added to the lower area that is open and exposed to view, sanded smooth. The aft flange of each ramp was simply bonded into place on the upper cowl. The idea of the ramps is to provide a less turbulent, more efficient airflow over the engine. Later, when the engine baffles are installed, you can either position and install the baffles so the rubber seal is outboard of the ramps as the telltale "skid marks" in the left photo illustrate, or shape the baffle and its seal to conform to the curvature of ramp as I did with the ramps on the right.

Like those before me, I later glassed in the exposed areas of the ramps as suggested, it is very easy to do, but cannot report any perceived difference in performance, but then I've never really tried to document any before/after results. Other builders report a significant improvement. The following caveat is part and parcel to the RV building experience: As always, YMMV.


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Last edited by Rick6a : 03-30-2008 at 06:12 AM.
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  #5  
Old 03-28-2008, 08:21 PM
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Webb Webb is offline
 
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Location: Jackson, MS
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Default Thanks Rick

I appreciate the pics. Have to tell you that I now understand why they call the darn things baffles. I let loose a string of profanity today that would have made a sailor blush. Kid from next door heard me and told me I cursed better than his dad (lol). Vans instruction on the inlet ducts are weak. Called them today and Joe was stellar with help.

Bottom line, I'm at the end of building and feel almost manic to finish except I'm tired of building. Joe was an inspiration.

I really appreciate the photos. They answer the visual questions I had.

Webb
N32SW
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  #6  
Old 03-28-2008, 09:10 PM
Brambo Brambo is offline
 
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Location: Boulder City
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Webb View Post
Bottom line, I'm at the end of building and feel almost manic to finish except I'm tired of building.
Webb
N32SW
Wow, I'm at the same point doing baffles and cowling. It's such a slow process, (fit, disassemble, attach, etc....) that I'm starting to look for work around the house to do instead of working on the plane. I probably just need a break.
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  #7  
Old 03-28-2008, 10:14 PM
ao.frog ao.frog is offline
 
Join Date: Sep 2006
Location: Manstad, Norway
Posts: 866
Default Here's mine...

Hi.

I've a Superior IO-360 horizontal induction too, and here's my set up.

The ramps are first clecoed in place, then glued in place with industrial glue, then gaps and edges where filled with flox and sanded smooth and finally the ramps where glassed in.

As you can see, I've added inboard "sidewalls" to the ramps to stop airleaks.
I've done this because folks in this forum recommended it. (makes sense to me too)

The sidewalls is simply small triangles made from foam, filled with microballons, glued and fiberglassed in place.

Hope this helps.



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First RV-7 completed, (bought partly finished from a US-builder) 305 hrs per July 2014, SOLD
Second -7 had first flight Feb 25th 2014. 220 hrs pr July 2019. Life is good!

Last edited by ao.frog : 03-28-2008 at 11:00 PM.
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  #8  
Old 03-28-2008, 10:38 PM
gasman gasman is offline
 
Join Date: Mar 2007
Location: Sonoma County
Posts: 3,821
Default IMAGE SIZE !!

One such place is www.Imageshack.us - a site that is about the easiest I've ever seen. They have a 1MB per picture limit, so if your image is 3MB and two feet in width you'll need to reduce it first. Once you have the picture at the size you want (a nice size for the forums is 700 pixels wide), go to their site. You'll see the following screen.
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  #9  
Old 03-28-2008, 11:02 PM
ao.frog ao.frog is offline
 
Join Date: Sep 2006
Location: Manstad, Norway
Posts: 866
Default Done...

I've resized now... sorry...
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Regards Alf Olav Frog / Norway
First RV-7 completed, (bought partly finished from a US-builder) 305 hrs per July 2014, SOLD
Second -7 had first flight Feb 25th 2014. 220 hrs pr July 2019. Life is good!
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  #10  
Old 03-29-2008, 03:25 AM
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Webb Webb is offline
 
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Location: Jackson, MS
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AO Frog - I like the side enclosures. I'll wait until I see how the baffling meets the ducts to see if I want to go that extra step. It would make it stronger. I may do it anyway since I have to glass in the joints. What the heck - just a bit more time in the building log.

Webb
N32WW
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