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  #11  
Old 02-04-2008, 03:21 PM
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newtech newtech is offline
 
Join Date: Mar 2006
Location: Evansville, Indiana
Posts: 661
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I just finished making all of the hoses for my O-360-A1A equipped RV-7A. I ordered all Aeroquip fittings and hoses from SummitRacing.com for approximately $300 and am very pleased with the results. Only recommendation is to buy the non-marring vice jaw inserts to hold the fittings while you work the metal braid hose into it. Be careful and make sure you are buying the good stuff, i.e. the stuff from the auto racing suppliers and not the AN stuff. Aeroquip makes both. I bought two AN4 hose fittings at $22 each and the Racing line part was $6.00 and every bit as good.

Do your own evaluation and make your own decisions. I chose to go with the Aeroquip parts from Summit and am very pleased with the results.

Steve Eberhart
RV-7A, O-360-A1A
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  #12  
Old 02-04-2008, 03:30 PM
szicree szicree is offline
 
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: SoCal
Posts: 2,061
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Quote:
Originally Posted by newtech View Post
I bought two AN4 hose fittings at $22 each and the Racing line part was $6.00 and every bit as good.
I recently needed a coupler and purchased it from a local speed/machine shop. It looked exactly like the corresponding AN part but was surprised to learn (from the guy who made it) that the inner bore was larger, resulting in a thinner wall, and that the threads were cut rather than rolled. Just cuz they look the same doesn't mean they are. Be careful.
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  #13  
Old 02-04-2008, 04:01 PM
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newtech newtech is offline
 
Join Date: Mar 2006
Location: Evansville, Indiana
Posts: 661
Default Just how much experimental are you comfortable with

True, that is why I put the caution at the bottom. The racing applications run higher pressures than I will see on my plain vanilla Lycoming O-360-A1A. The AN part may have thicker walls; but, in my application that is just extra weight and many more dollars. I am very comfortable with my choice and I fully support your choice to use only AN hardware. It is all about our own comfort levels.

Since our airplanes are Experimental, you have to decide for your self where to draw the line between what on your plane is going to be AN and or certificated and what is not. After all that is why we are building experimental airplanes rather than buying certificated.

Steve Eberhart
Experimental RV-7A and Lycoming O-360-A1A
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  #14  
Old 02-05-2008, 08:55 AM
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frankh frankh is offline
 
Join Date: Jul 2006
Location: Corvallis Oregon
Posts: 3,547
Default Local hydraulic shop

Will make hoses for waay cheap...The downside is the fittings will be steel...Which personally for fuel lines I prefer anyway.

Supply your own firesleeve and they will include it.

A 1/2" 3ft hose with #8 swivel ends cost me $20 a few weeks back...Would be less for#6 plus the firesleeve of course.

Frank
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  #15  
Old 02-05-2008, 09:03 AM
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atreff atreff is offline
 
Join Date: Jan 2005
Posts: 215
Default DIY for sure

I did all my hoses. I also bought my fittings at SnF from a vendor who was selling hoses already made up to length, and covered with firesleeve. I added up my (very slightly used) material costs, vs buying from Spruce and I saved close to $900 over retail. This was for fuel, oil, inverted oil, brake hoses.

I also asked the Aeroquip tech guys at an airshow what the proper procedure was for pressure checking aircraft hoses. 1.5 x the working pressure OF THE HOSE. Not the application, the hose. So, I was building using Aeroquip 303 and the requried fittings. this hose (going from memory) has a working pressure of like 2000psi. So, I tested my hoses with a hand pump and gage to 3000psi (1.5xworking pressure).

I would not build my own hoses and not pressure check them this way. Air to 100 psi doesn't do it. I actually had a few hoses that did n't leak at lower pressures, but did above 1000 psi. and they were fuel hoses. Glad I did.

How? I bought a hydraulic hand pump from Northern tool, it was a replacement part for some hydraulic press or something. I believe it cost me approx $30. Tee'd a gage that went to 4000 psi in there, and used a ton of brass fittings from Home depot to adapt my pump to the differend sized NPT's for the various hoses. Oh-empty the pump from whatever they put in it, and fill it with 5606 Mil spec hydraulic oil.

I like the DIY version, cause I'm not a brain surgeon, and I usually have to make the hoses twice-once for the length I think I'll need, then again, after I try and fit it on my plane.

I also firesleeved my hoses (firesleeve came along for free in the already built up hoses I bought.).

OK, since you're all my good friends, I'm going to blow my source, and therefore effect the supply and demand equation, but heck, my plane's built. I get them from one of the tents at SnF in front of the four exhibition hangars. I forget the name. He sells sheet metal, and hardware and in the back, hose parts and built up hoses that were either rejected or were extras from some FAA approved hose shop, complete with engraved stainless steel dataplates. So, I cut them up, and use what I can. Example of pricing: $7 for a complete Aeroquip 303-4 hose, with two brand new ends, hose and firesleeve. You can't get one fitting set for $7 new at ACS. I usually just buy a roll of new hose, just to make sure, but the fittings and firesleeve are the expensive items.

Buy the mandrels, rubber jaw protectors for your vice, a hand pump (with gage) and you'll be good for your career working on your plane. Don't hope that they'll not leak. Check them like the pros do....only the best part is-if you don't like the length, undo it, try it, then leak check it and bolt her on.

It's a good thing.

Art Treff
RV-8 Fastback Slider
"Lil Snorkey"
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  #16  
Old 02-05-2008, 09:12 AM
Dean Pichon Dean Pichon is offline
 
Join Date: May 2006
Posts: 532
Default Installing firesleeve?

I've been unable to find instructions for installing firesleeve. Specifically, I would like to know how to terminate the sleeve ends to the fittings. Can anyone direct me to such instructions?

Thanks,

Dean
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  #17  
Old 02-05-2008, 09:38 AM
trib trib is offline
 
Join Date: Aug 2005
Location: Virginia Beach, VA
Posts: 474
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Dean,

I made all of my hoses last month for my 6A, O360. Total for 8 hoses, including oil, fuel and senders for my VM1000C was just under $200. No mandrels are required. I've heard the 1/4" lines are difficult to get the fittings on, but for these I premeasured and used the already built hoses. The teflon hoses with SS braiding for 1/4" line are in the neighborhood of $15 each, already made and tested to 3000 psi! I premeasured with clear tubing for all of the hoses, but still had to modify some of the fuel/oil lines to get the routing and stress relief I wanted. The 1/4" lines did not have reusable fittings at that price, but who needs em? I cut the hoses using aluminum tape on the ends and the cutoff wheel from the canopy. With a good vise, there is no problem.

I'd definitely recommend making your own hoses so you can get the precise fit you want.
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  #18  
Old 02-05-2008, 09:59 AM
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rv6rick rv6rick is offline
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Join Date: Apr 2005
Location: Vincent, Ohio
Posts: 737
Default

I 'was' pretty happy with my $844 spent at ACS with a 15% discount over Vans....until I read what some others are paying. I still think I got an acceptable 'deal'....I can only guess that others didn't make as large of a purchase as I did. Again...I'm doing ALL of my fuel/oil/brake runs with SS braided HP fuel/oil hoses.

A grand total of 22 fittings, 34ft of hose, and 10' of firesleeve. For those of you quoting less...I'm curious what quantity we're talking about. I can post my exact order if need be.

Dean already made up his mind to make hoses so I don't think we are too far off the subject here .
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