|
-
POSTING RULES

-
Donate yearly (please).
-
Advertise in here!
-
Today's Posts
|
Insert Pics
|

01-10-2008, 02:25 PM
|
 |
|
|
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: Santa Clara, CA
Posts: 204
|
|
INSTALLING AN EFIS IN A RV-6 TIP UP
I never thought I would install an EFIS in my RV. If I want to fly an EFIS I will go to work. Steam gauges are good with me. But these new EFIS, EMS combos are now cheaper than buying all the round gauges. So I'm going to buy one. Now this is my problem. The RV6 tip up has the F645 instrument panel mounting rib right in the line of sight of the pilot. Which is OK for a 6 pack. To mount an EFIS I will have to offset to the center of the panel. I guess I will have to get used to it. My question is how has others dealt with laying out there panel? Pictures would be appreciated.
Thanks,
Aaron
__________________
RV6 built and flying
Bearhawk Patrol plans purchased
Last edited by AMURRAY : 01-10-2008 at 08:08 PM.
|

01-10-2008, 03:17 PM
|
|
|
|
Join Date: Dec 2006
Location: Atlanta, GA
Posts: 1,231
|
|
Try playing around with the tool at EPanelBuilder. You can put in an imaginary line in the middle and position various pieces of equipment.
Rather than a single unit, you might consider side-by-sides like the units from Aspen Avionics. They are not in full production yet, but should be soon. You could get nearly the same effect from a pair of vertically mounted Blue Mountain EFIS Sports.
Good luck!
|

01-10-2008, 03:36 PM
|
 |
|
|
Join Date: Jan 2006
Posts: 934
|
|
Unless the -6 tipper is substantially different from the -7, we've usually just cut off the panel rib and moved it outboard a couple inches to accomodate the EFIS.
Jim
|

01-10-2008, 03:49 PM
|
 |
|
|
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: Charlottesville, Virginia
Posts: 1,230
|
|
EFIS
How about the Dynon D10A......fits in existing hole, or to the right
of the support.
You can even stack two of them and be less than the Aspen.
__________________
Bob Martin
RV-6, 0-360 Hartzell C/S, Tip up, 1200+TT
James extended cowl/plenum, induction, -8VS and Rudder. TSFlightline hoses. Oregon Aero leather seats.
D100-KMD150-660-TT ADI2- AS air/oil seperator. Vetterman exhaust with turndown tips.
Louisa, Virginia KLKU N94TB
|

01-10-2008, 03:54 PM
|
|
|
|
Join Date: Feb 2005
Location: Victoria B.C.
Posts: 1,266
|
|
Cut the offending rib out and displace it to the right and build another rib like it and displace it to the right of the removed rib. This will cure your problem and also add some strength to the panel. I have done several times with good success.
|

01-10-2008, 04:56 PM
|
 |
|
|
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: 57AZ - NW Tucson area
Posts: 10,011
|
|
I cut it down...
Quote:
Originally Posted by Norman CYYJ
Cut the offending rib out and displace it to the right and build another rib like it and displace it to the right of the removed rib. This will cure your problem and also add some strength to the panel. I have done several times with good success.
|
My approach is slightly different.... I cut the left hand brace down so it only captures the lower screw.
I'm not flying yet, but if the panel proves to be too "wiggly" a single rod brace from the EFIS mount bracket to the sub-panel bulkhead will stiffen it up. A single nutplate on the sub-panel should be sufficient for this brace...
gil A
__________________
Gil Alexander
EAA Technical Counselor, Airframe Mechanic
Half completed RV-10 QB purchased
RV-6A N61GX - finally flying
Grumman Tiger N12GA - flying
La Cholla Airpark (57AZ) Tucson AZ
|

01-10-2008, 07:00 PM
|
|
|
|
Join Date: Feb 2005
Location: Victoria B.C.
Posts: 1,266
|
|
Gil you might want to put a support in now and not later it will be easier and won't cut into your flying time. Reason being that you will grab or an other person will grab the panel to steady themselves and it will end up bending while they are getting in or out. Those panel just don't have enough strength in them without the ribs. That is why I went with the extra rib, also I use 1/8 angle around the top instead of the .063.
Your panel is looking good.
|

01-10-2008, 07:08 PM
|
 |
VAF Moderator / Line Boy
|
|
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: Dayton, NV
Posts: 12,256
|
|
In retrofitting Louise's -6 panel, I ran into exactly the same problem with the rib. because the sub-panel ad already been ...er..."modified" several times, I really didn't have a good place to move and remount the rib to, so just decided to put a D10A on the left side of it, and the D180 on the right. Neither of them is directly in front of the pilot, but it really hasn't bothered me yet on the few hours I've flown it.
If you're building from scratch, I'd move the rib - but it was not a huge deal to work around it.
Paul
__________________
Paul F. Dye
Editor at Large - KITPLANES Magazine
RV-8 - N188PD - "Valkyrie"
RV-6 (By Marriage) - N164MS - "Mikey"
RV-3B - N13PL - "Tsamsiyu"
A&P, EAA Tech Counselor/Flight Advisor
Dayton Valley Airpark (A34)
http://Ironflight.com
|

01-10-2008, 09:31 PM
|
 |
|
|
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: Santa Clara, CA
Posts: 204
|
|
Thanks guys for the great ideas. I guess I will be moving-modifying the rib. I guess I should of planned a little better. I already painted the sub panel and ribs. A little paint touch up will be in my future.
Aaron
__________________
RV6 built and flying
Bearhawk Patrol plans purchased
Last edited by AMURRAY : 01-10-2008 at 11:47 PM.
|

01-10-2008, 10:06 PM
|
|
|
|
Join Date: Oct 2006
Location: Anaheim, CA
Posts: 16
|
|
I was too lazy to move the rib and mounted the D-180 just to the right of it in my -7. It's obviously not centered, but I find that it's not a big deal and don't really notice it at all. Visibility and readability are excellent, and the buttons are all easily reachable.
-
Scott
RV-7A N653S
265 Hours
|
Posting Rules
|
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts
HTML code is Off
|
|
|
All times are GMT -6. The time now is 09:18 AM.
|