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  #91  
Old 11-19-2007, 12:57 PM
Ron Lee's Avatar
Ron Lee Ron Lee is offline
 
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Default One way to minimize depressing the brake pedal

Fly without shoes. Better sensitivity of where your footsies are.
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  #92  
Old 11-19-2007, 06:21 PM
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Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Mike S View Post
So, is there anybody out there using these??

http://www.cleavelandtool.com/fileca...l_Brochure.pdf

If so, how do you like them???

Are they worth the $$$$??

Thanks.
Looks like they might work because they project the rudder pedal aft quite a bit more. I think they assume that you have small feet, though. With my heel on the floor, my toes can actuate the brakes. Size 11 feet.

Gee, I should sell my laminated hose fix for $100. Half the price of the cleaveland parts and easy to install!

V
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  #93  
Old 11-19-2007, 06:45 PM
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Default Look good to me

I think they look like an improvement over the Vans standard pedals. There may be a weight penalty. I like the looks of them and think they would help prevent inadvertant braking. Now the cost....??? seems a little on the high side. Back when I was still building and still had some money in the account, and knew then what I know now, I probably would have bought them.
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  #94  
Old 11-20-2007, 07:01 AM
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Default

I think a piece of rubber hose, slit, and placed over the lower bar would work just fine. When I built my RV, I just pitched the brakes forward a little. I have AL skid plates under the pedals and just make sure I have my heels on them during TO and landing.

Roberta
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  #95  
Old 11-20-2007, 11:24 AM
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Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Build9A View Post
I think they look like an improvement over the Vans standard pedals. There may be a weight penalty. I like the looks of them and think they would help prevent inadvertant braking. Now the cost....??? seems a little on the high side.
I agree totally.

I was hoping someone out there had bought them, and could report on how well they actually work.

Looking at the design, it looks like the lower pad is located so that it actually applies pressure that retracts the master cylinder, good if you have a sticking unit.
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Flying as of 12/4/2010

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  #96  
Old 11-20-2007, 08:44 PM
skikrazi skikrazi is offline
 
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Default RV Flip Overs

Our solution at Lockhart, Texas, to the RV 6, 7, 8 & 9-A nose wheel fork plows and subsequent roll-overs was to install a skid plate to protect the nut at the bottom of the fork. A well-known RV Guru at Lockhart thought of it and welded one together for me. The flat face of the fork with a big nut sticking below it does not make a good plow. Even if the fork is presently rounded and sets an inch higher, as of February, 2005, it still does not make a good plow. A rounded, metal skid plate behind the fiberglass cup of the front wheel pant does offer protection--especially if that cup has 3 layers of fiberglass on the inside leading edge of it. The 3-layer is rock hard and fits snug against the skid plate and does not allow a gap between the skid plate and nose cap. If the nose cap is put on while the 3-layer is still wet, it forms to the skid plate. Any gap will allow an impact to crush the fiberglass and thus expose the fork and bottom nut so they dig in. Then the strut will bend back and collapse. The one-inch higher fork may or may not solve the problem. The concept is too new to provide statistics one way or the other. I have 480 hours on my RV-7A with over half of that using the skid plate. Don't get me wrong, I plan on doing the "Mandatory" Service Bulletin; but I'll be also pulling off the "jock strap" and moving it to the new fork for extra insurance because I'm convinced it has saved my RV-7A and my bacon more than once. I enjoy fly-ins to out-of-the-way places like Reklaw where you land on uneven dirt strips. I intend to keep flying into places like that.
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  #97  
Old 11-20-2007, 09:46 PM
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Ron Lee Ron Lee is offline
 
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Default Link to my "skid plate" solution

Maybe not ideal but better than nada

http://www.vansairforce.com/communit...highlight=tips
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  #98  
Old 05-13-2012, 07:39 PM
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CPSONE CPSONE is offline
 
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Default new corrected links for original post on this thread

New updated links are here:
http://www.ntsb.gov/doclib/reports/2006/rv_photos.pdf
http://www.ntsb.gov/doclib/reports/2006/rv_study.pdf
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  #99  
Old 05-13-2012, 10:58 PM
Paul Walter Paul Walter is offline
 
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Location: Horsham, Victoria, Australia
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I installed an antisplat reinforcement on my 7A and I would have to say that i noticed no difference taxiing or otherwise what so ever. However, I will say it made me feel more confident just knowing the device was there. I wonder if anyone has tried engineering the heavier RV 10 nose folk to suit a 6 or 7 . The 10 dosent seem to have the nose wheel coloapse problems of the two seat models, or at least I havent heard of any at this point.
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  #100  
Old 05-13-2012, 11:45 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Paul Walter View Post
I I wonder if anyone has tried engineering the heavier RV 10 nose folk to suit a 6 or 7 . The 10 dosent seem to have the nose wheel collapse problems of the two seat models,
The 10 uses a totally different system for the nose gear leg than the two seat models.

On the two seaters, the nose leg flexes to provide the spring action. The 10 uses a rigid leg, that pivots at the upper end, and a stack of rubber discs as a compression spring.
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Flying as of 12/4/2010

Phase 1 done, 2/4/2011

Sold after 240+ wonderful hours of flight.

"Flying the airplane is more important than radioing your plight to a person on the ground incapable of understanding or doing anything about it."
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