First Mistake on Wings - Page 2

Naruto · #11 10-14-2007, 01:23 PM

Thanks guys for the good but conflicting advise .

I was off at work using the paint booth, priming up my wing ribs. I'm glad that's done. I will talk to Vans tomorrow and let everyone know what they say.

Quote:

Originally Posted by dan

I agree with Dave. I'll bet Van's will tell you the spar itself is fine, but that the doublers need to be replaced.

While you're at it, it will be a good excuse to flip those rivets around. Rule of thumb: Shop head on the THICKER material side whenever possible.

Dan,

Thanks for the heads up on the rivet shop heads. I will definitely remember it. Did you end up drilling out your rivets in the rear wing spar? I notice on your web site, http://www.rvproject.com/20020512.html, it looks like you put the shop head the same way I did. If you left them the same way and are up and flying, I'm comfortable leaving the the rivets in the rear spar the way they are if Vans says I don't have to replace anything.

dan · #12 10-14-2007, 01:40 PM

Dan, you know...sometimes I look back at my construction log and just shake my head at some of the stuff I did. Thanks for pointing that out, because I honestly can't remember why I did it that way!

No problems whatsoever (of course I'd say that, right?) but my next set of wings will be done "right."

Naruto · #13 10-14-2007, 01:58 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by dan

Dan, you know...sometimes I look back at my construction log and just shake my head at some of the stuff I did. Thanks for pointing that out, because I honestly can't remember why I did it that way!

No problems whatsoever (of course I'd say that, right?) but my next set of wings will be done "right."

Thats a relief, if Vans says I don't have to replace anything, I was not looking forward to drilling all those rivets out

. Since your plane is flying, it reinforces my confidence that mine will be fine leaving the rivets the way they are. I researched several sites and copied what they did so I assumed it was the right way. No lost sleep tonight waiting to talk to vans tomorrow, yeah right

.

Bernie RV7 · #14 10-14-2007, 05:55 PM

Thanks .... It makes sense

cheers

cytoxin · #15 10-14-2007, 06:02 PM

which side the shop head is on. as dan said the sheetmetal WILL pucker (he said scallop) between rivets . try it you'll not like it. -3s may not but the -4s will. On the thinner stuff..032 and less esp.the thinner the more the pucker will be. dont take them back out. as far as the doubler being hurt, this is a stress concentration unless blended out to about a 1/2 to 1 inch radius. IMHO. good luck

ADDED LATER which i wouldnt used as said earlier.

flyboy96 · #16 10-15-2007, 10:43 AM

So what is the general idea for proper shop head direction, I didn't see it specified on the drawings or directions so when I built my HS I looked at some of the logs online and guys did it both ways, I liked the way it looked better with the shop heads in so that's how I did it. Not the smartest way to build (by looks) but thats a rookie for ya. Whats the best?

Ted

Naruto · #17 10-15-2007, 10:51 AM

OK guys,

Vans replied and its only half bad

.

"Only partial bad news on the rear spar. Engineering wants the doublers, W-
707G and D to be replaced. The spar is OK. Be careful; drilling out the
rivets or you may have to replace the spar also.

As a reminder, do not drill though the rivet. Drill just through the head and
then pop it off with a prying action with a tight fitting punch or the shank of a
drill. Then punch out the rivet shank or pull it out using a side cutter to grab
it tight. That way the hole is not compromised.

Counting the ribs from the root (as number one), towards the tip, on the
second and third rib, ignore the extra holes in the spar web. On the fourth
rib, put two blind rivets (LP4-3) in the extra holes in the web."

I'll probably have to get a spar because I bet I'll screw up drilling out the rivets.

dan · #18 10-15-2007, 11:08 AM

Thanks for posting their reply...confirmed my thoughts.

Take your time drilling out those rivets, or maybe enlist some help from your local technical counselor or "been there done that" builders if you're not confident about it. The prospect of ordering a new spar sounds like expen$ive $hipping co$t$ to me...

Naruto · #19 10-15-2007, 12:34 PM

I would like to report after an hour of drilling and popping out the rivets head, I successfully removed everything and don't need to get a new rear spar also

. My replacement cost is about $21.00 and I might as well get a few extra thing to save on shipping (Ductworth 100 Watt lamps and some 3/8" aluminum tubing).

I also got a reply about which way to put the shop head and Vans response.

"Shop head/manufactured head orientation is not important. It's up to you."

Guess I'm going to have both wings with different orientations since I'm leaving the right rear spar alone. Thanks guys for all your help.

ditch · #20 10-15-2007, 05:22 PM

I've also heard from a friend of mine that shop heads don't matter which way they are put in. He read it in a sport aviation article. It would be alot easier to get the bucking bar on the rib side than trying to get the gun in along the rib. All good info though. I'll try the shop head on thickest except where it would be much easier the other way around. Just put up my wing jig this weekend so haven't had a chance to get after the wings yet. Good info to know about the extra holes in the 2nd and 3rd ribs.