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  #11  
Old 05-12-2022, 06:31 AM
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DanH DanH is offline
 
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Location: 08A
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Prepperpilot View Post
Tailwheel chain clip busted loose. Strong crosswinds.
The bent wire kind? They can be safety wired. Or given a flotation test and replaced with:

https://www.lowes.com/pd/National-Ha...eel/1002234754
.
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  #12  
Old 05-12-2022, 12:00 PM
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Prepperpilot Prepperpilot is offline
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DanH View Post
The bent wire kind? They can be safety wired. Or given a flotation test and replaced with:

https://www.lowes.com/pd/National-Ha...eel/1002234754
.
Yup. Will probably go the shackle method on next annual.
Makes we wonder why use clips at all.
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  #13  
Old 05-12-2022, 12:22 PM
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RV6_flyer RV6_flyer is offline
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DanH View Post
The bent wire kind? They can be safety wired. Or given a flotation test and replaced with:

https://www.lowes.com/pd/National-Ha...eel/1002234754
.
Looks like what I have been doing except I have a Clevis at the front also. This would be a lower cost option and less than an ounce more weight.
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  #14  
Old 05-12-2022, 01:25 PM
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Location: Edgewater, MD KANP
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DanH View Post
The bent wire kind? They can be safety wired. Or given a flotation test and replaced with:

https://www.lowes.com/pd/National-Ha...eel/1002234754
.
Dan, I can find one of these anywhere that fits the factory hole. Did you enlarge the hole or is there a small diameter pin option?
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  #15  
Old 05-13-2022, 07:07 AM
Tomcat RV4 Tomcat RV4 is offline
 
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Home depot and Harbor Freight have various sizes.
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  #16  
Old 05-13-2022, 07:32 AM
HFS HFS is offline
 
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Location: Lemoore, CA
Posts: 461
Default Cable Shackle For Rudder Horn

Here are the specs for different cable shackles (from Genuine AC Hdwe).

We typically use AN115-21, which already has a .188" hole diameter. If that's not large enough for you (even though the plans call out is for a -3 bolt), there is ample edge distance on the hole flange to enlarge it a bit for your needs.

YMMV

HFS
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  #17  
Old 05-13-2022, 07:38 AM
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Default Thanks!

Thank you HFS!
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  #18  
Old 05-13-2022, 08:02 AM
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Default Jack

In addition to some of the above tools, RV8 travel jack in case of that unexpected flat tire.
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  #19  
Old 05-13-2022, 09:30 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RV6_flyer View Post
Looks like what I have been doing except I have a Clevis at the front also.
An eyebolt with a few spacing washers at the rudder horn drops the cable assembly below the bottom rudder cap at full deflection. Might not need that on a -6, but it's needed on the -8 when the attach point is moved inboard to correct the rudder/tailwheel ratio.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Carlos151 View Post
In addition to some of the above tools, RV8 travel jack in case of that unexpected flat tire.
You bet! A fella can usually borrow tools, but jacking Grove gear out in the boonies might be tough. I carry two of these, left and right. They pick up two axle attach bolts and allow the use of a small jack, or even a log and a limb for a lever. Note the modified wrench to reach in behind the disk and hold the bolt head. Wouldn't be needed if I got off my lazy butt and installed some sort of head lock.
.
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  #20  
Old 05-13-2022, 12:33 PM
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Location: San Jose, CA
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DanH View Post
An eyebolt with a few spacing washers at the rudder horn drops the cable assembly below the bottom rudder cap at full deflection. Might not need that on a -6, but it's needed on the -8 when the attach point is moved inboard to correct the rudder/tailwheel ratio.
As usual, much learning here for me.

Dan, can you elaborate on finding/setting the “correct rudder/tailwheel ratio”. I have been curious about this ratio’s effect on ground handling for some time. I have a 6 with stock old-school Van’s fully swiveling tailwheel if it matters…
Thanks,
Peter
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