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  #11  
Old 09-30-2007, 10:51 AM
tomcostanza tomcostanza is offline
 
Join Date: Jul 2005
Posts: 293
Default

I use a straight edge and a soldering gun to melt a line through the plastic. Then just peel it off.

Hope this helps.
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  #12  
Old 09-30-2007, 10:52 AM
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mgomez mgomez is offline
 
Join Date: Mar 2005
Location: Northern California, USA
Posts: 537
Default A dull soldering iron

Take a cheap Radio Shack soldering iron, and work it on a ScotchBrite wheel until it's round and dull. Then run it over a scrap sheet of aluminum until you're sure it won't leave a mark on the skin.



You didn't ask, but in case you're curious: if you want to cut straight lines -- there's not much point, but if you do -- use a wooden straight edge. A metal straight edge, like I'm using in the above photo, draws too much heat from the soldering iron and makes it harder to melt the plastic.

At the risk of igniting a primer debate, I used the blue stuff as a mask for spraying primer on my joints. My theory (half-baked, admittedly) is that I want to prime the areas where moisture can get trapped. The joint between skins and rib flanges is one such place, so I primed just that:

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  #13  
Old 09-30-2007, 11:04 AM
SvingenB SvingenB is offline
 
Join Date: Apr 2007
Location: Norway, Stj?rdal
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Thanks a lot
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  #14  
Old 09-30-2007, 11:17 AM
RScott RScott is offline
 
Join Date: Aug 2005
Location: Estacada, OR
Posts: 787
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Also, on the flat pieces, unroll a couple inches of the film, duct tape it to a pipe or broom handle, then roll it off, being careful to not bend the metal. Works slick & much faster than working it off with your fingers.

Richard Scott
RV-9A
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  #15  
Old 09-30-2007, 01:52 PM
gpiney gpiney is offline
 
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: The Beautiful NJ Shore
Posts: 409
Default 40Watt

From experience, you need at least a 40W soldering iron. Anything lower just don't cut it.
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  #16  
Old 09-30-2007, 02:29 PM
jmbaute jmbaute is offline
 
Join Date: Feb 2005
Location: Blacksburg, VA
Posts: 149
Default Where it all begins

And, just in case you're curious how they get the plastic on there, I snapped this picture when I was at Van's this summer.

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  #17  
Old 09-30-2007, 02:58 PM
Stephen Lindberg Stephen Lindberg is offline
 
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: Olympia, WA
Posts: 272
Default FWIW Dept.

FWIW, if I ever build another RV, I will remove all of the blue plastic right out of the crate, done, finiti.
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  #18  
Old 10-01-2007, 03:24 PM
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RVG8tor RVG8tor is offline
 
Join Date: Mar 2007
Location: McKinney, TX
Posts: 1,261
Default Why all of the plasic

Stephen L,

Just curious why you would remove all of the blue plastic? Did you have a corrosion problem with parts stored for a long time with the plastic on the part? The reason I ask is that someone at Van's basically told me to do this, but I see so many sites where people leave the plastic on the parts and just cut off the rivet zone.

Cheers
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  #19  
Old 10-01-2007, 03:38 PM
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Sam Buchanan Sam Buchanan is offline
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Location: North Alabama
Posts: 4,301
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Stephen Lindberg View Post
FWIW, if I ever build another RV, I will remove all of the blue plastic right out of the crate, done, finiti.
Quote:
Originally Posted by RVG8tor View Post
Stephen L,

Just curious why you would remove all of the blue plastic? Did you have a corrosion problem with parts stored for a long time with the plastic on the part? The reason I ask is that someone at Van's basically told me to do this, but I see so many sites where people leave the plastic on the parts and just cut off the rivet zone.
The only reasons I have seen for not removing all the plastic as soon as the parts hit the worktable:

1) So the project will look all purty and shiny when the DAR visits the shop....wait, he couldn't care less how shiny the plane looks...and your painter is going to hate the shiny look so much the first thing they will do is attack your purty plane with a bunch of ScotchBrite pads!

2) If the plane is going to be polished instead of painted.

3) If you want to be obsessive and spend (waste??) time running around your project with a dull soldering iron....

4) Uh...can't think of any other good reasons
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  #20  
Old 10-01-2007, 03:45 PM
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Mel Mel is offline
 
Join Date: Mar 2005
Location: Dallas area
Posts: 10,768
Default

The purpose of the film is to reduce scratches during packing and shipping. Back when we built, there was no such thing. There is no good reason to leave it on.
The afore mentioned is my opinion, and worth just what you paid for it.
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