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  #21  
Old 02-21-2021, 08:40 PM
Steve Crewdog Steve Crewdog is offline
 
Join Date: Mar 2019
Location: KBVS
Posts: 82
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Quote:
Originally Posted by abwaldal@gmail.com View Post
I have a Dymo Rhino 4200 and it takes flat tape and shrink tubing up to 3/4" black or white.
Good tool to have on the bench. NO clue how much I paid. It just works well.
Easy to change tapes and easy to operate.
Like it Art
Quote:
Originally Posted by RV7A Flyer View Post
I have the K-Sun Bee3, and it works great, on tubing down to 1/8". I have no idea what I paid for it (like all things, if you buy decent equipment/tools, you'll never remember what they cost, down the line. "'Tis a false economy to invest in cheap goods."

Guys, WADR you should look at replacing that with the Dynamo unit, I had been using one of the K-Sun units and got used to the high tape price, I was stunned how much cheaper the Dynamo tubing is. (maybe it was where I was buying the tubing.)



Quote:
Originally Posted by Rallylancer122 View Post
How does that work? Do you just flatten and feed heat shrink tube in instead of the label tape?
Check out my build page: http://seareybuild.blogspot.com/2020...nd-pieces.html



The generic heat shrink tubing is cheaper and works just as well as the Dynamo brand tubing.
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Last edited by Steve Crewdog : 02-21-2021 at 08:45 PM.
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  #22  
Old 02-21-2021, 10:02 PM
PilotjohnS PilotjohnS is offline
 
Join Date: Jan 2016
Location: Southwest
Posts: 1,296
Default Just me

Here is what i am using. The heatshrink is 1/4” flattened. It will shrink onto 22awg wire. I use the 3/8"size for 26 awg twisted shielded pair and larger, the 1/4” is too small for that. Amazon description claims the shrink tubing shrinks 3:1 or more. I never measured it but it does shrink up well.

I also use black lettering on yellow. The yellow helps me find where the wire is marked.
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Last edited by PilotjohnS : 02-22-2021 at 09:59 AM.
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  #23  
Old 02-21-2021, 11:30 PM
PCHunt PCHunt is offline
 
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"The heatshrink is 1/4” flattened. It will shrink onto 22awg wire. I use the 3/16”’size for 26 awg twisted shielded pair and larger, the 1/4” is too small for that."

Umm, isn't 3/16" smaller than 1/4" ? Or is one measured flat, and the other one measured as a tube?

And which model Dymo printer are you using?

Thanks,
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  #24  
Old 02-22-2021, 10:05 AM
PilotjohnS PilotjohnS is offline
 
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Location: Southwest
Posts: 1,296
Default fixed

I fixed it, it was 3/8" size.

Model is DYMO LabelManager PnP Label Printer - 2-1/2w x 5-1/2d x 5-3/8h as on Target.com website.
At staples.com, it is $48.99; so i did beat the $50 barrier. :-)
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WARNING! Information presented in this post is my opinion. All users of info have sole responsibility for determining accuracy or suitability for their use.

Dues paid 2021, worth every penny

RV9A- Status:
Tail 98% done
Wings 98% done
Fuselage Kit 98% done
Finishing Kit 35% canopy done for now
Electrical 65% in work
Firewall Forward 5% in work
Fiberglass 0%, thought i was building in metal?
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  #25  
Old 02-22-2021, 10:23 AM
PatMac PatMac is offline
 
Join Date: Feb 2021
Location: Louisville
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Second on the Dymo/Brady label maker. We use it all the time. Well worth the investment. One trick I leaned from an A/P is to use clear heat shrink over the label. (Not at joint/connection). Takes a little more time and few pennies but well, well worth it in the long run, particularly if/when you go to sell. fwiw
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  #26  
Old 02-22-2021, 06:54 PM
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PerfTech PerfTech is offline
 
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Location: Redlands, Ca.
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Default You Were Lucky!

Quote:
Originally Posted by Steve Crewdog View Post
I had been matching heat shrink to the wire (red on red, black on black), but got caught short one weekend when the store was closed and used some clear I had laying around. Liked the novelty of seeing the joint and, I'll admit it, went of a bit of a kick of using it. Aside from making me do a doubletake sometimes about "Did I cover that wire?", it's a small pleasure to see the joints, but a hangar rat stopped by and said clear heat shrink is bad because it will deteriorate faster than colored.


Thoughts?

TIA
... I had some hangar rats stop by and they ate a bunch of wire insulation, and
then had the heat-shrink for desert! W.T.H. --
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  #27  
Old 02-22-2021, 08:55 PM
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GalinHdz GalinHdz is offline
 
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FWIW I use a cheap Dymo P-touch label maker for the label then slide clear shrink wrap over it. Looks great and makes future maintenance or repair significantly easier.

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  #28  
Old 02-22-2021, 11:00 PM
jliltd jliltd is offline
 
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Back on topic, it only makes sense that equivalent materials with more pigment are less susceptible to ultraviolet breakdown (as a rule). This is the same reason sunlight-rated tie wraps are black while those for indoor or under cover use are white or translucent. And also why PVC pipe used for underground or in wall use is white, while that use for electrical conduit has gray pigment so it is UV-rated. So I would disagree with the responses saying there is no difference in plastic heat shrink life expectancy when exposed to light.

Despite all that we rarely see exposed wires or splices in aircraft so I wouldn't let the clear or color issue be a concern.
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  #29  
Old 02-28-2021, 01:05 PM
Steve Crewdog Steve Crewdog is offline
 
Join Date: Mar 2019
Location: KBVS
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PerfTech View Post
... I had some hangar rats stop by and they ate a bunch of wire insulation, and
then had the heat-shrink for desert! W.T.H. --
Best kind of hangar rats are the ones who's first words are "Need a hand?"
Worst kind are the ones who's first words are "How come you're out of beer?"

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