Drop-down fuse panel construction tips?

[David Carter]

I've seen several threads with pictures of fuse blocks mounted to panels that swing down underneath the copilot side of the panel. It seems that the best designs are hinged on the subpanel & use a camlock or similar at the bottom of the instrument panel.

As a non-builder, I'd like to get some tips from the group on the details of fabricating & installing such a fuse panel.

Some questions that come to mind:

- What thickness aluminum should be used for the base plate?
- What size piano hinge? attached with rivets or screws/bolts?
- What type quick-release fastener at the front, and how are these installed? I believe some require special installation tools?
- Any other helpful fabrication details I didn't know enough to ask about?

Thanks in advance for your suggestions.

[Martyrv6a]

I did this on my RV6. I think the aluminum shelf was made from 0.025 but it could’ve been a .032 material. The hinge was a half-inch wide, probably 1/16 inch pin. I did not use camlock’s but I used #8 screws flat head and nut plates. Be sure to leave service wire loops so the shelf can swing open. Marty

[Walt]

My advice, don't do it, find a permanent location on the subpanel.

[9GT]

Right on the panel if you can find the room.

[Desert Rat]

Originally Posted by Walt

My advice, don't do it, find a permanent location on the subpanel.

Why do you say that Walt?

[rapid_ascent]

I thought about this at one point, but when would you actually be planning on swinging down the fuse panel? In flight? Seems unlikely it would be accessible. If that is not the case then I'm not sure about the benefit.

Right now I'm going with my previous plan which happens to be as Walt suggested. It's also the simplest solution and I need to do a few of those since mostly everything seems to be customized lately.

[wirejock]

I have two but they are not for fuses. Additional area for remote boxes. They are each a section of .032 spanning from panel to subpanel maybe 12" wide. They each have P3 hinge fore and aft so they can swing either way or be dropped completely for maintenance. Pins have a 90 with one eye of scrap hinge holding the leg with a screw.

[Bicyclops]

I hinged mine at the panel and used a camlock at the subpanel. The fuse panel is slightly longer than that so the camlock is a couple of inches from the end in between a couple of fuseblocks. I think I used .032 and a couple of bent sheetmetal stiffeners. My fuseblocks are mounted to the bottom of the swinging panel so they face the cabin when it is swung down. I have no intention of opening it in flight, but it would be feasible. On the ground, it makes it a lot easier to replace a fuse than if it were further forward under the panel. Also, if there were to be any loose hardware behind the panel, it can't fall onto the fuseblocks. I brought all my wiring onto the swinging panel in conduit parallel to and right at the piano hinge so that the only flex they get is a 90* twist.

Ed Holyoke

[Malndi]

My 22yo 6 has a drop down fuse panel and I’m a fan. It’s an efficient use of space and for me there has been no down side. In my setup the fuse panel is roughly Z shaped in cross section so no fastener is required, it simply swings up and clips behind the adjacent bulkhead. With shoulder straps loosened it’s accessible from the left seat, not that I’ve needed to.

[Walt]

Originally Posted by Walt

My advice, don't do it, find a permanent location on the subpanel.

Originally Posted by Desert Rat

Why do you say that Walt?

Well a couple of reasons but mainly:

1) The hinge panel itself is going to block access behind it, access is critical for future maintenance. This is one of those things that looks good on paper before all the wires are run, but doesn't work well in the end. (I've seen plenty of these and they all s*ck).

2) Wire bundles cannot be effectively made to pivot around a hinged panel, especially the larger gauge wires. The end result is usually a mess rather than a neat secure bundle protected from chafing.