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03-22-2018, 09:42 AM
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Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: 57AZ - NW Tucson area
Posts: 10,011
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Av8rRob
Thanks for the replys guys, for those who recommended a professional; how did you find them? I would definitely want a quote from a pro before I attempt it. Do i just start calling roofers?
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Check for local metal building assembly companies. The metal construction techniques of hangars probably won't be familiar to a home roofing company.
__________________
Gil Alexander
EAA Technical Counselor, Airframe Mechanic
Half completed RV-10 QB purchased
RV-6A N61GX - finally flying
Grumman Tiger N12GA - flying
La Cholla Airpark (57AZ) Tucson AZ
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09-27-2020, 05:50 PM
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Join Date: May 2014
Location: Bountiful, UT
Posts: 145
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Howdy guys, I have a 42'x36' Metal skinned on Metal beams/Purlins) hangar that was built about 25 years ago.
While putting in a mezzanine/loft I took down the Fiberglass batting that was installed on the bottom of the purlins (Normally they erect the metal frame and the purlins and then put the batting on TOP of the purlins and then the metal skin on top of that.). What I noticed is some water staining and areas on the purlins where there was rust developed from the moisture being trapped from leaks I guess.
We want to do this before we have the ceiling spray foamed. We removed the batting because we want to regain the head height between the purlins.
So, what to do about fixing it before I have the ceiling spray foamed with insulation. We pulled down the batting insulation because we want the headroom between the purlins instead of the batting hanging down lower than the purlins.
It appears from looking at the screws that were used to screw the metal skin that they may have been overdriven or with normal heating/cooling contracting and expanding that the rubber washers looked to have squished and deteriorated and that this may be causing some of the leaking. I have not actually been up on top of the roof (But looking at the skins on the door and sides of the hanger, I bet the roof is the same or worse).
Some thoughts are:
1. A set of hangar owners at the airport with newer (by 10-15 years) had someone come in and unscrew every screw part way, shoot a blob of RTV under the rubber washer and then screw it back down).
2. Someone suggested to install the next largest size rubber washer metal self tapping screw in every hole (IE: Remove screw, put in new larger screw). I'm not sure that oversizing is needed because screwing into the metal the threads should be ok. Where I have seen that suggested is metal roof on wood where the holding power may be compromised into the wood.
3. Just replace the existing screws with new screws and try not to overdrive them and squish out the rubber (or neoprene someone will point out) washers.
(Is it possible to get up on the roof and walk/kneel around? I don't know the gauge of the metal but I know the purlins are spaced at 48" apart from each other.
I think I'll try number 3 first on some of the walls/door to see how that works and if the threads in the metal framing is going to be ok with a new screw of the same size and see what works better a DRIVER or a drill with adjustable clutch.
Any other thoughts? I will try to call a metal building installer and see what their thoughts are.
Thanks!
Mark
__________________
Donation for 2019 complete! Thanks VAF and DR! (Worth every penny!)
Last edited by mantry : 09-27-2020 at 06:02 PM.
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09-27-2020, 06:05 PM
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Join Date: Jul 2020
Location: Western edge, Iowa
Posts: 10
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Could see what other hangar owners have done in the area.
Other option is to have a spray on roofing coating. Something a contractor may have to do. Or you can try yourself, local hardware stores sell the sealant by the 5 gallon bucket.
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09-27-2020, 06:15 PM
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Join Date: Jan 2017
Location: Battle Ground WA
Posts: 45
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Hate those leaks
Gotta love some roofing products. I like comp over sheeting. Just finished removing 18,500 feet metal and comping it.
Having installed, removed, fixed and screwed with tens of thousands of feet of metal roofing in my construction career I will say one thing. !! Well more than that. !!
Find out where it is leaking, map it out from below, then go up and find the leak. It's usually obvious where it is if you look closely.
I bought a 24 year old hanger a year ago. Move in, two months later the cowl of my 6A had water on it. Oops Hey this thing isn't water cooled.
Found only one screw had backed out about strong 1/16" causing that problem. It's amazing how much water one screw can let in.
I went over the whole roof and found a number of screws backing out or gasket problems. I also made and installed foam seals for under the ridge cap.
If you aren't feeling good about heights guess you'll have to trust somebody else. And then they are probably dumb as a box of rocks. I've hired hundreds of sub contractors in my 41 years of construction and I am amazed at the lack of understanding of the trade they are working in.
Good luck. If yo were in my area I would help ya. Art
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09-28-2020, 10:43 AM
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Join Date: Sep 2016
Location: Joseph, Oregon
Posts: 561
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mantry
Howdy guys, I have a 42'x36' Metal skinned on Metal beams/Purlins) hangar that was built about 25 years ago.
While putting in a mezzanine/loft I took down the Fiberglass batting that was installed on the bottom of the purlins (Normally they erect the metal frame and the purlins and then put the batting on TOP of the purlins and then the metal skin on top of that.). What I noticed is some water staining and areas on the purlins where there was rust developed from the moisture being trapped from leaks I guess.
We want to do this before we have the ceiling spray foamed. We removed the batting because we want to regain the head height between the purlins.
So, what to do about fixing it before I have the ceiling spray foamed with insulation. We pulled down the batting insulation because we want the headroom between the purlins instead of the batting hanging down lower than the purlins.
It appears from looking at the screws that were used to screw the metal skin that they may have been overdriven or with normal heating/cooling contracting and expanding that the rubber washers looked to have squished and deteriorated and that this may be causing some of the leaking. I have not actually been up on top of the roof (But looking at the skins on the door and sides of the hanger, I bet the roof is the same or worse).
Some thoughts are:
1. A set of hangar owners at the airport with newer (by 10-15 years) had someone come in and unscrew every screw part way, shoot a blob of RTV under the rubber washer and then screw it back down).
2. Someone suggested to install the next largest size rubber washer metal self tapping screw in every hole (IE: Remove screw, put in new larger screw). I'm not sure that oversizing is needed because screwing into the metal the threads should be ok. Where I have seen that suggested is metal roof on wood where the holding power may be compromised into the wood.
3. Just replace the existing screws with new screws and try not to overdrive them and squish out the rubber (or neoprene someone will point out) washers.
(Is it possible to get up on the roof and walk/kneel around? I don't know the gauge of the metal but I know the purlins are spaced at 48" apart from each other.
I think I'll try number 3 first on some of the walls/door to see how that works and if the threads in the metal framing is going to be ok with a new screw of the same size and see what works better a DRIVER or a drill with adjustable clutch.
Any other thoughts? I will try to call a metal building installer and see what their thoughts are.
Thanks!
Mark
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If the screw threads show signs of corrosion, they are leakers.
My hangar, metal roof on top of metal purlins, was repaired by using method 2, which was the suggestion of the professional roofer. All screws replaced with the next larger size.
No leaks in over a year 
__________________
Michael Fleming
Joseph, OR
sagriver at icloud dot com
RV-7 Slider #74572
Started 11/2016
Empennage completed 11/2016 (sans fiberglass)
Ailerons and flaps completed 3/2017.
Wings completed 12/2017
Started on QB fuselage 01/2018
Donated for 2020 and so should you
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09-28-2020, 02:04 PM
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Join Date: Jul 2007
Location: TX & CO
Posts: 465
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If it’s just a couple of leaks, I’d go with silicone too. But make sure it is 100% silicone that comes in the clear tubes, not any of the colored ones.
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09-28-2020, 03:01 PM
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Join Date: May 2010
Location: Burlington On. Ca
Posts: 136
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Retighten screws
When I first bought my hangar, I had 17 leaks. At first I was just going to concentrate on the screws in those areas but when I got on the roof I could see many screws that were no longer tight enough. I retightened all that would snug up and replaced the few that would not with longer screws. I managed to stop all leaks this way.
I have since done this on the walls as I noticed water coming in certain places. It seemed to work on the walls as well.
Good luck
__________________
Al Grant
Flying RV6, O-320, 160hp
Burlington, On
Dues Paid
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09-28-2020, 05:46 PM
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Join Date: Mar 2005
Location: Huntsville, AL
Posts: 427
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Take a look at www.uniflexroof.com.
We used their product 41-500 applied with a floor mop.
No leaks
__________________
Dave
RV12 N951DZ
First Flight 9/23/16!
No paint yet. Working on a scheme with John Deere colors or accents.
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09-29-2020, 08:01 AM
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Join Date: May 2014
Location: Bountiful, UT
Posts: 145
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Thanks everyone!
Any comments on being up on the roof?
Will it hold a 250 lb guy?
Any tips? Board cut to sit in the valley? Carpet piece to slide around under your knees? Etc
__________________
Donation for 2019 complete! Thanks VAF and DR! (Worth every penny!)
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09-29-2020, 08:23 AM
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Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: Victoria, BC, Canada
Posts: 3,932
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mantry
Will it hold a 250 lb guy?
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It likely was designed to hold a snow load, which will be greater than a 250lb guy. Walk on the rafters (where the screws are) and you should be fine.
Quote:
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Carpet piece to slide around under your knees? Etc
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The last thing you want, ever, is to be sliding on a sloped roof.
__________________
Rob Prior
1996 RV-6 "Tweety" C-FRBP (formerly N196RV)
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