VansAirForceForums  
Home > VansAirForceForums

- POSTING RULES
- Donate yearly (please).
- Advertise in here!

- Today's Posts | Insert Pics


Go Back   VAF Forums > Main > RV Building Tips/Techniques
Register FAQ Members List Calendar Search Today's Posts Mark Forums Read

Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread Display Modes
  #11  
Old 08-12-2020, 11:44 AM
DanH's Avatar
DanH DanH is offline
 
Join Date: Oct 2005
Location: 08A
Posts: 9,476
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by jcarne View Post
Lol I hope that is sarcasm.
Not sarcasm.

If Tucker can't swell the shanks to fill the oversize holes, the assembly is structurally substandard, and prone to leakage and paint blisters. If he can, great, but it will require a longer rivet, and he is already having problem with the standard length.
__________________
Dan Horton
RV-8 SS
Barrett IO-390
Reply With Quote
  #12  
Old 08-12-2020, 06:54 PM
chaskuss chaskuss is offline
 
Join Date: Mar 2005
Location: SE Florida
Posts: 1,499
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by DanH View Post
Not sarcasm.

If Tucker can't swell the shanks to fill the oversize holes, the assembly is structurally substandard, and prone to leakage and paint blisters. If he can, great, but it will require a longer rivet, and he is already having problem with the standard length.
Been there, done that, got the Tee shirt. I found that best solution was to use the next size longer rivets. Swell them slightly, using a hand squeezer, before installing the rivets in the structure. In other words, swell the rivets while they are simply mounted on the squeezer, but not in the structure. That way, you simply throw away any rivets that don't swell properly. Swell as needed to get a snug fit in the oversized holes. Install the swelled rivets into the holes and set as normal. Without the excessive rivet to hole clearance, your results will be much better.
My issue was not on the tanks, but on the curved portion of the turtle-deck.

Charlie K

Last edited by chaskuss : 08-12-2020 at 06:55 PM. Reason: Added clarification
Reply With Quote
  #13  
Old 08-12-2020, 07:53 PM
I.am.Human.Factors I.am.Human.Factors is offline
 
Join Date: Aug 2018
Location: Belmont, CA
Posts: 9
Thumbs up Update:

Thanks for all the helpful hints, tips, and encouragement everyone! You all had some excellent ideas! While there was a little doom and gloom among this thread, I tried the simple act of wiping the excess proseal off before setting and that did the trick nicely. Some good rivets were resulting so I’m much happier now.

I’ll definitely be drilling a number of of rivets out that I had previously set, but I wasn’t overconfident and set all of the ribs before posting this message. I set a rib and a half and stopped to think about it. I learned the lesson to slow down long ago.

Thanks again everyone!
__________________
Tucker Lambert
San Carlos, CA
- Professional autopilot button pusher
- RV-7 tail kit in progress
VAF 2018 Dues Paid
Reply With Quote
  #14  
Old 08-12-2020, 10:36 PM
erikpmort's Avatar
erikpmort erikpmort is offline
 
Join Date: Oct 2012
Location: logan, utah
Posts: 405
Default

I found the answer ! For me.....

Use the regular yoke not the longeron yoke. Folding over be gone ! Didn’t even have to clean them anymore
__________________
Erik Mortenson
Rans S-20 low and slow

14 build working on wings
Reply With Quote
  #15  
Old 08-13-2020, 07:45 AM
DanH's Avatar
DanH DanH is offline
 
Join Date: Oct 2005
Location: 08A
Posts: 9,476
Default

Tucker, forget doom and gloom. There is risk in allowing emotional content into what should always be a dispassionate build decision. Dispassionate is the key. If you're rationally sure of what you've done, great. If you're not, replace it. Either way, don't let the decision be swayed by feelings, yours or others.

Exactly half the finished RV's are below average.

Long term, no one has ever regretted replacing a marginal part.
__________________
Dan Horton
RV-8 SS
Barrett IO-390
Reply With Quote
  #16  
Old 08-13-2020, 07:57 AM
Mckay Mckay is offline
 
Join Date: Dec 2019
Location: Prescott, Az
Posts: 27
Default

One of the issues is using B proseal to Fay seal ( also letting sealant cure before riveting). We never used B to do this, B is for filleting and A is the proper sealant for Fay sealing. We drove hundreds of thousands of wet rivets and never cleaned tooling or rivets until they became so gummed up it made more mess than progress. This is a non issue when using the proper sealant, I have no idea why Vans calls for B in this setting other than it is more forgiving in application than A.

I agree with the others, drill and/or replace parts, leaks suck. You’ll get there and be flying soon!
Reply With Quote
  #17  
Old 08-13-2020, 08:15 AM
jcarne's Avatar
jcarne jcarne is offline
 
Join Date: Jul 2016
Location: Worland, Wyoming
Posts: 1,360
Default

Glad you got the problem figured out. Those dies from Cleaveland have worked for many a builder, no reason it shouldn't work for you too.
__________________
Jereme Carne
PPL
RV-7A Emp. done
Wings done
Fuselage done
Finish kit almost done
Exempt but gladly paying!
Reply With Quote
  #18  
Old 08-13-2020, 01:52 PM
Bill Boyd's Avatar
Bill Boyd Bill Boyd is offline
 
Join Date: Sep 2006
Location: Landing field "12VA"
Posts: 1,529
Default Not giving advice here

... just reflecting aloud...

I can't see where those flanges, properly fay-sealed, would allow fuel to reach the dimpled and riveted areas, hence not seeing the leak concern. But I know fuel tanks, leaks and paint blisters are fickle and mysterious things and that meticulous technique is never a bad thing.

2. Once cured, I wonder how much the rivets contribute to the mechanical strength of a ProSeal-bonded joint. I really do. Especially after trying to get a fuel tank inspection cover off that was ProSealed on years before. From what I experienced that week, I am skeptical that a few rivets, whether clinched over or beautifully set, will enhance that bond strength by much. But I am not an engineer, I'm not DanH, and won't pretend to be.

Carry on.
__________________
Bill Boyd

Hop-Along Aerodrome (12VA)
RV-6A - N30YD - Built '98 / sold '20
RV-10 - N130YD reserved - under construction

donating monthly to the VAF - thanks, Doug
Reply With Quote
  #19  
Old 08-13-2020, 04:16 PM
DanH's Avatar
DanH DanH is offline
 
Join Date: Oct 2005
Location: 08A
Posts: 9,476
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Bill Boyd View Post
... just reflecting aloud...
Reasonable reflections Bill.

First, understand there are no standards for polysulfide sealant in avgas. All standards are written for jet fuel. The test fluid is actually called JRF, Jet Reference Fluid. It's important to remember, because we don't know how the physical properties of the cured sealant are affected by 100LL, a more volatile compound. For example, no one I know has yet offered an explanation for sealant reversion...sealant turning back into goo.

Second, cured sealant is not a solid. It is full of tiny air bubbles, like a sponge, and thus cannot act like a hydraulic fluid under load.

Third, it is not vapor proof. It emits toluene for a few weeks, and will pass fuel vapor after cure.

Ok, the test standard closest to what we might expect in our application is a sample soaked in JRF for 14 days at 140F. The minimum performance is 50 psi and 100% elongation at failure. The test article from one lab report on my hard drive scored 128 psi and 600%.

Consider those numbers. They are terrific in the context of a rubbery sealant between two parts. However, if we are expecting that sealant to fixate parts as an adhesive, we would be greatly mistaken. Although 128 psi feels like a lot when we're trying to remove a cover plate, it is Jello pudding in the context of structural requirements. For comparison, ordinary West 105/206 is 7320 psi tensile and 11,500 compressive. 2024-T3 is 50,000 tensile yield, 70,000 ultimate.

So, it's not very strong. It's also not very stiff, per the elongation number. At 128 psi, the sample stretched to six times its original length. Clearly that's not possible in a fay joint, as it would have long since sheared all the rivets. It's like pairing a steel cable with a rubber band to pick up a weight. The rubber band sees almost no strain, and contributes nothing useful. The cable takes all the load.

In our tanks, the sealant essentially contributes zip. Load transfer is all via the riveted joint.
__________________
Dan Horton
RV-8 SS
Barrett IO-390

Last edited by DanH : 08-13-2020 at 06:55 PM.
Reply With Quote
  #20  
Old 08-13-2020, 05:56 PM
ryankhallcpa@yahoo.com ryankhallcpa@yahoo.com is offline
 
Join Date: Jan 2018
Location: Taylor, AZ
Posts: 29
Default

"Exactly half the finished RV's are below average."

After I got off VAF and returned to my day job as a bean counter I realized....haha he's exactly right!
__________________
Taylor, AZ (KTYL); Builder #74649
RV7 - Emp done; SB Wings done; SB Fuse in progress
XIO-360-M1B with 9.0:1 pistons; built by JB Aircraft Engines
67 Cherokee 180C - Flying
USAFA - Son (class of 2022)
Donated 2020
My flight bag is a Dewalt tool bag!
Reply With Quote
Reply


Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

vB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Forum Jump


All times are GMT -6. The time now is 02:37 PM.


The VAFForums come to you courtesy Delta Romeo, LLC. By viewing and participating in them you agree to build your plane using standardized methods and practices and to fly it safely and in accordance with the laws governing the country you are located in.