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07-28-2020, 09:29 AM
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Join Date: Jul 2020
Location: Edmonton, AB
Posts: 2
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Beginner riveting question
Hi everyone,
After a few months setting up my workshop and getting my tools together, I think I'm almost ready to start on my RV-14A empennage.
Before destroying any pieces of the actual kit, I wanted to build the control surface practice kit from Vans. Everything seems straight forward, but when I rivet the ribs to the spar, the rivet expands between the materials (I've attached a photo). This happened to me on both sides.
Can anyone point me in the right direction as to what I'm doing wrong? Is it too much pressure on the bucking bar? My other rivets all turned out okay.
Thanks very much. Looking forward to being part of this community for years to come.
Ed
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07-28-2020, 09:52 AM
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Join Date: Jan 2016
Location: Sugar Land, TX
Posts: 406
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Ed,
Did you have clecos installed in the adjacent holes to hold the pieces tightly together while riveting? If the pieces are not laying tightly flat against each other before you start to rivet you can get this effect.
Also, do you have a squeezer as well as a rivet gun? For rivets close to an edge like these appear to be, a squeezer is usually a better tool to use. But you still need to cleco the parts together before riveting.
Suggest you see if you can find another builder in the Edmonton area who will spend a little time with you to help you get started. Having someone to act as a mentor can make your initial learning much easier and quicker. You might want to make contact with your local EAA Chapter ( https://chapters.eaa.org/eaa30/about-us) as I bet they would have other builders who would be happy to help you out.
Best of luck with your new build.
__________________
Dave Macdonald
RV-10 First Flight April 1, 2020.  Currently in Phase 1
2020 VAF Dues Paid
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07-28-2020, 10:04 AM
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Join Date: Nov 2019
Location: Boulder, CO
Posts: 134
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The above advice is right - put a cleco in each open hole to clamp pieces together. On top of that, I sometimes find that using clamps to hold pieces together is necessary, too. If the pieces have a curve to them, and airplanes have lots of curves, then using a clamp near the rivet hole can help ensure a tight fit when a cleco isn't close enough to do the job. I have a variety of plastic clamps with rubber tips that I bought from the local hardware store in a number of sizes.
__________________
RV-10 build blog -- https://eaabuilderslog.org/?blproject&proj=7ZSwfzr2g
Tail finished March 2020
Wings finished July 2020
Fuselage joined to tailcone on July 19, 2020
N1814T reserved with FAA
Donated through 12/31/2020, EAA and AOPA member
When it absolutely, positively doesn't matter when or if it ever gets there, ship with Old Dominion.
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07-28-2020, 10:18 AM
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Join Date: Dec 2009
Location: Boulder, CO
Posts: 4,428
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One tip - find some small ID fuel line and cut off a section that's as long as the stem of the unset rivet that protrudes from the parts before setting. Then set the rivet normally. The hose forces the parts to remain in contact. It will look misshapen after this but is still reusable for five or six rivets.
This is more necessary for -4 rivets than the smaller -3 ones.
Dave
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07-28-2020, 10:25 AM
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Senior Curmudgeon
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Join Date: Sep 2005
Location: Dayton Airpark, NV A34
Posts: 15,408
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Welcome to VAF
Ed, welcome aboard the good ship VAF 
__________________
Mike Starkey
VAF 909
Rv-10, N210LM.
Flying as of 12/4/2010
Phase 1 done, 2/4/2011 
Sold after 240+ wonderful hours of flight.
"Flying the airplane is more important than radioing your plight to a person on the ground incapable of understanding or doing anything about it."
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07-28-2020, 10:30 AM
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Join Date: Jan 2012
Location: Northeast Ohio
Posts: 682
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Ed-
As previously mentioned, having clecos in adjacent holes can really help keep the parts together. There are also Cleco clamps which you should consider adding to your tool arsenal ... they truly come in handy. They are commonly found in two jaw sizes ... having 3 or 4 short and long come in handy. Below is a photo of a Cleco clamp with a short jaw in use.
https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-9yFZN-tWo...0/DSC03279.JPG
Another common work practice that should be used whenever possible is to place the factory head of the rivet on the thinnest piece being riveted and let the shop head form on the thickest piece.
If using a rivet squeezer, here is a tip that is very useful when riveting thinner parts together .... cut a piece of vinyl tubing just slightly longer than the portion of the rivet that protrudes through the rivet hole. Slip the vinyl over the shaft of the rivet. When the rivet sets on the squeezer begin to compress together, the vinyl tubing will compress first keeping the two pieces in close contact prior to the rivet beginning to set .... creates a tight joint every time. Below are three photos showing the process.
http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-wiweN7iatd...0/DSC03370.JPG
http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-haqECLH413...0/DSC03371.JPG
http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-50CHiGAp2H...0/DSC03375.JPG
Hope you have many hours of enjoyment assembling your RV-14A.
Happy building,
__________________
John
www.dogaviation.com
RV-12 Wings, Empennage, Fuselage, Finishing, Avionics and Powerplant kits all completed
Now Flying!!
Donation paid until September 2021
Last edited by John-G : 07-28-2020 at 10:33 AM.
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07-28-2020, 10:56 AM
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Join Date: Jul 2011
Location: Cypress, TX
Posts: 409
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You can also use flat faucet washers. Buy a pack...one will last the life of the project but you will mysteriously lose many over the course of the build.
__________________
RV14A #140083
Flying! 8/12/19
2019 Donation
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07-28-2020, 10:34 PM
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Join Date: Jul 2020
Location: Edmonton, AB
Posts: 2
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Wow, thanks everyone for the guidance! I did have a cleco in the other hole that joins the two pieces together, but I’ll try again with a clamp as well.
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07-29-2020, 05:15 AM
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Join Date: Apr 2015
Location: Ponte Vedra, FL
Posts: 1,470
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I can't overemphasize two points here (besides using clecos in adjacent holes):
1. a piece of tubing over the rivet shaft to compress pieces together while riveting (I use aquarium style tubing because it's so easy to cut more pieces when I lose them which is constantly).
2. stabilizing the work piece. I have become an expert at clamping stuff to the bench or using vise (with padding usually) to hold my work.
Another trick I like is to use the squeezer yoke (longeron yoke is my go-to if it will fit) with the fixed side away from me and "pull" the parts together before squeezing. Many times I can use this technique and avoid the need for tubing. Only possible when work piece is stabilized.
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07-29-2020, 06:17 AM
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Join Date: Oct 2018
Location: tx
Posts: 32
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One Luther thing not mentioned. Inshure both pieces nest together. Ie.. lay flat against each other the intire surface. Meny parts will need tweaking to insure proper fit.
Hope this helps
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