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  #1  
Old 07-08-2020, 08:43 AM
Rich Pulman Rich Pulman is offline
 
Join Date: Oct 2018
Location: CYQA Canada
Posts: 44
Default Alternator advice please

I currently (no pun intended) have a B&C SD-8 alternator attached to the vacuum port of an O290-D2 in my RV3. It?s minimal output just isn?t up to the task anymore, so I?m looking for a replacement in the 20-30A range. I?m considering the B&C 410-H (plus external voltage regulator) and the Plane-Power FS1-14B (built-in voltage regulator). My battery is an Odyssey PC680 which I may also replace.

Does anyone have any experience with either of these alternators that they care to share? Does anyone have any alternative suggestions for alternator and/or battery combinations? I?m just trying to keep it light and keep it simple.

Many thanks for any suggestions.
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  #2  
Old 07-08-2020, 09:06 AM
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RONSIM RONSIM is offline
 
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Default I use the 410-H

as my backup on my -6A --- I often "test" the system by turning off my primary and motor along on the backup. My system usually pulls about 18-22 amps with everything on. The 410-H keeps up well. I have it set to put out about 13.8 volts.

Ron
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  #3  
Old 07-08-2020, 09:45 AM
wilddog wilddog is online now
 
Join Date: Feb 2008
Location: va.
Posts: 520
Default

I have a 410H and Sorial battery in my 8 but only 21 hrs, so far good. Lights are LED and the rest doesn?t pull many amps. No alternator running off the flywheel.
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  #4  
Old 07-08-2020, 11:20 AM
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F1Boss F1Boss is offline
 
Join Date: Aug 2006
Location: Taylor Texas
Posts: 811
Default B&C

I have been flying with the 410H for 10 years. No problems! 550 Continental has a better drive ratio - I can get useful power around 850RPM. The LYC system might need closer to 1000RPM to make useful power?
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  #5  
Old 07-08-2020, 11:52 AM
RotaVR RotaVR is offline
 
Join Date: Aug 2011
Location: LaCrosse, WI
Posts: 36
Default

I now have 70 hrs on a 410-H alternator on my RV-4 0-320. I have the regulator mounted on the cockpit side of firewall with a blast tube directed on the Alternator. My battery is a RG series Concorde. I've had no issues or problems. Takes about 1K RPM to extinguish the low voltage light. I have steam gauges except electric tach and electric CHT/EGT, transponder, single comm, backup electric fuel pump, and I-Fly 740b hard wired. I do not have ADSB out, only IN through the 740-b. Steve
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  #6  
Old 07-08-2020, 12:56 PM
JimWoo50 JimWoo50 is offline
 
Join Date: Oct 2005
Location: Chicago sw suburbs
Posts: 395
Default Autozone 14184

Externally regulated 35a was $20 at autuzone with lifetime warranty. First one lasted 8 years and 500+. hrs and they gave me another one for nothing. Regulator was from eBay for another $15 or so from a 60?s era Ford IIRC. Good luck with whatever you pick.
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  #7  
Old 07-08-2020, 02:55 PM
vic syracuse vic syracuse is offline
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Default

Both of them are good choices. The advantage to the B&C is that it has an external regulator that is adjustable. You can set the standby voltage just a little lower than your main alternator and then the standby alternator will come on automatically if/when the main alternator fails.

Vic
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  #8  
Old 07-17-2020, 08:36 PM
BlndRvtr BlndRvtr is offline
 
Join Date: Mar 2009
Location: NE Where
Posts: 337
Default

I'm about to install a B&C 410H alternator as my back-up. I'll be using the SB1B-14 external voltage regulator. The installation manual offers a choice of using a 40A CB or a current limiter for output protection.

Questions:1) What does ANL mean?
2) Why would I want a CB or a Current limiter? Pros/Cons of each? I know CBs are resettable vs the current limiter is like a fuse; one time overload. Other than that I don't know any more, but sure would like to.

George

Last edited by BlndRvtr : 07-21-2020 at 07:32 PM. Reason: comment
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