Brakes dragging

[Taltruda]

I'm going to speculate warped rotors... doesn't take much for that to cause a drag. .

[cderk]

Originally Posted by Walt

Make sure the pedals are fully retracted, sticky pedals that don't fully retract when released will cause the brakes to drag.

Walt - what is the cause of sticky pedals? My -10 has been difficult to push back into the hangar since day 1. I have to use my hands to pull back on the pedals and there is the tiniest of pay in there that must be doing it.

[jwilbur]

Just solved this in my 10. The way I secured the lines to the master cylinder was preventing the brake from easily retracting fully in some rudder pedal positions.

[Flying Canuck]

I'm not an RV-10 (9A) but this thread hits on something I ran into today. I just changed out most of my brakes - new high energy discs, new high temp o-rings, new pads. Made sure the piston was fully retracted. Recharged the brake lines and bled the left brake - no air in the right one. I pulled out to do my conditioning snubs and immediately found the right side to be dragging a fair amount. I didn't proceed with the conditioning, but that was because I had a weak battery and could not start the engine. Reading through this thread, I think my problem is my caliper pins are not moving freely, I know that this is happening at least a little. I guess I'll look at that tomorrow. Is this something that could/should be lubricated? If not, just a really good clean and make sure the movement is square?

And while I'm talking brakes, I've seen many mentions of safety wiring the brake pads, presumably to prevent the caliper pins from travelling out. What do you wire? I couldn't see anything obvious.

[BobTurner]

Originally Posted by Flying Canuck

And while I'm talking brakes, I've seen many mentions of safety wiring the brake pads, presumably to prevent the caliper pins from travelling out. What do you wire? I couldn't see anything obvious.

Not the pads, but the two bolts that hold the calipers together. In the past I had brakes where those two bolts had drilled heads (safety wire to each other). But the current Cleveland brakes that came from Vans with my -10 do not have drilled bolt heads.

[gasman]

Originally Posted by BobTurner

Not the pads, but the two bolts that hold the calipers together. In the past I had brakes where those two bolts had drilled heads (safety wire to each other). But the current Cleveland brakes that came from Vans with my -10 do not have drilled bolt heads.

In That case, you need to use new star washers each time the bolt is removed.

[FLY6]

Was just watching EAA Hints for Homebuilders, they state newer brakes aren?t necessarily drilled. If they are you safety wire, if they are not, you don?t need to safety wire.

[Taltruda]

The OP solved the problem with shims. .then probably the problem is warped rotors. They don't warp like cars do that cause a pulsation, they warp in like a cupping direction. I have seen this before on planes that primarily use differential braking for steering. Perhaps trying to taxi by consciously minimizing brake use and use more prop blast over the rudder may prolong rotor life. The shim trick will probably be fine for another year or so anyway!

[rdrcrmatt]

We had a brake dragging issue that was caused by the pedal hinge bolts being too tight. When the brakes warmed the issue got worse.

In the process I added single through bolts for the hinges, as well as return springs on the calipers.

[elev666]

Default
We had a brake dragging issue that was caused by the pedal hinge bolts being too tight. When the brakes warmed the issue got worse.

In the process I added single through bolts for the hinges, as well as return springs on the calipers.

+ 1 The single bolt is a AN 3-56 if my memory is still in tact,