Lookin for inputs on Fairing lay up

[Sabre1]

I?m getting ready to do my fiberglass lay up of the fairing on the windscreen using Rutan 9 oz bi-directional Fiberglass cloth cut on the bias. My thought is that it should lay down better and be just as strong as uni-directional fiberglass. Additionally, I?m taking some of the techniques from the RV-14 process by starting the lay up with a 4? fiberglass layer impregnated with black dyed epoxy resin. All remaining fiberglass strips will then be applied as per plan but now using un-dyed resin.
Fiberglass work is not my strong suit so I?m looking for any comments, concerns or inputs on my plan. Thanks in advance for your time.

[Electrogunner]

I did the layup in halves instead of one long cloth. Seemed easier to get it to layout flat. You start out with the thin strips working out to the wide strips. Also you may want to dye all of the layups as the first couple are still translucent.

[wirejock]

On my 7A I took a different approach. Someday, the windshield may need to be replaced so I made the one piece trim removable. It's bonded with Sika. As such, the inside surface was primed with Sika primer. So it's black. No dye needed. I layed up 5 layers of 8 harness. Popped it off. Finished it. Painted it. Bonded it.
Here's how it looks.

[RV10Pilot]

I used the RV-14 technique for the fairing on my 10 and it worked well. I cut the fiberglass cloth per the RV-10 plans and just lay them starting with the largest. In hindsight I should have made a template of the first lay-up. It should have been wider than what I had cut. I made sure I got a nice clean line along the windshield side. Use the gauge throughout the process. The better you can get the curve formed during the layup process will pay many times over when you go to sanding.

Watch the RV-14 videos one last time to make sure you haven't forgotten anything. Cut up more cloth than you think you will need of varying widths. Much easier to cut when you are clean and dry than when wet and sticky.

With the sheets cut on the bias, make sure you can get a nice clean fit to the tape line on the windshield.

Watch the temperature in your workshop. Use slow hardener. If your signature is correct and you will be doing this work in AZ in June, you may want to start very early in the morning while it is cooler out. This way you will have more working time.

For me it turned out easier to do than I anticipated. The time consuming part is the sanding afterwords.

[DanH]

Larry, that looks great!

[Northernliving]

Originally Posted by wirejock

On my 7A I took a different approach. Someday, the windshield may need to be replaced so I made the one piece trim removable. It's bonded with Sika. As such, the inside surface was primed with Sika primer. So it's black. No dye needed. I layed up 5 layers of 8 harness. Popped it off. Finished it. Painted it. Bonded it.
Here's how it looks.

The way Larry did his layup with a removable fairing is spectacular.

[wirejock]

Originally Posted by DanH

Larry, that looks great!

Wow! Coming from you, that means so much. Thank you.
I studied all your postings. It made thigs so much easier.

[wirejock]

Originally Posted by Northernliving

The way Larry did his layup with a removable fairing is spectacular.

Thank you. A fellow builder came by the other day. He tapped it with a fingernail and asked if it was plastic. I said no. Fiberglass and paint. He said, you can lay down paint like that?
I said, oh no. I can Cut&Buff thanks to Dan's postings!
Here's the side and rear view.

[Sabre1]

Thanks for the reply?s. Larry that looks amazing. Being an options guy I really appreciate your thought process.

Glad to see someone else has used the RV14 process. Yes I do live in AZ and plan to start early. I?ve already experienced pot life being decreased by over 1/2 due to the temps.