Confused about Countersink Names

[msmst25]

I just received my first shipment from Cleaveland for my RV-10 (picking up the empennage kit tomorrow).
I'm having a little trouble figuring out if some of the parts are interchangeable or if they have different names. In particular the countersink cutters don't seem to correspond with my order.
I was supposed to receive the following sizes:
3/32" Rivet
1/8" Rivet
#12 pilot
#8 Screw
#6 Screw

I received
CC 40-#40 Pilot
CC 30-#30 Pilot
CC 6-#28 Pilot
CC 8-#19
CC 12-#12 Screw

I don't want to make an assumption and use the wrong size countersink, so I'd appreciate any help figuring out which is which.

[airtractor8]

You have what you ordered. Here is the break down:

3/32" Rivet = CC40-#40
1/8"Rivet = CC30-#30
#12 Pilot = CC12-#12
#8 Screw = CC8-#19
#6 Screw = CC6-#28

The # size refers to the number drill size for the countersink pilot. For example CC40-#40 refers to a Countersink Cutter (CC) with a #40 drill size pilot bit used for 3/32 rivets.

Good luck with your new project

[msmst25]

Thanks for the clarification.

[HFS]

Be careful (when learning to use them) not to break off the stem (especially the #40) when you start using them.

The small one can be pretty fragile - ask me how I know.

YMMV

[PaulvS]

Originally Posted by HFS

Be careful (when learning to use them) not to break off the stem (especially the #40) when you start using them.

The small one can be pretty fragile - ask me how I know.

YMMV

Yup, me too, and even after many holes. And if you don't have a spare (same goes for dimple dies) then it's forced down time till a replacement arrives. Now I keep a spare for the most critical tools... including also cleco pliers.

[flion]

I'd also recommend buying at least three cages, if not one for every cutter. I got through my RV-6A build without but it was very tiresome changing the cutters all the time. It's very handy having at least the #30 and #40 cutters in their own cage and you can use colored paint to mark the cages to tell them apart.

[PilotjohnS]

Originally Posted by flion

I'd also recommend buying at least three cages, if not one for every cutter. I got through my RV-6A build without but it was very tiresome changing the cutters all the time. It's very handy having at least the #30 and #40 cutters in their own cage and you can use colored paint to mark the cages to tell them apart.

If I was to do it again, I would have 4 cages, 2 for the #30 and 2 for the #40. With one set up for flush rivets and one set up for 0.007" deeper for the bottom piece. I spent sooooo much time resetting cages. And if you get it wrong and go too deep, it is wrong forever.

And buy a 3/32" and 1/8" pilot counter sinks. A few times, I wanted to countersink before getting to final size. The 3/32" and 1/8" are the pilot hole sizes for the -3 and - 4 rivets.

[wirejock]

Originally Posted by flion

I'd also recommend buying at least three cages, if not one for every cutter. I got through my RV-6A build without but it was very tiresome changing the cutters all the time. It's very handy having at least the #30 and #40 cutters in their own cage and you can use colored paint to mark the cages to tell them apart.

+1. I have three. Works pretty well. I still check depth every time before use so an adjustment is a minor inconvenience. Get two pieces of scrap at least 1/8" thick. Drill a pattern of #40 holes in one and #30 in the other. Thick scrap will allow you to test on both sides. Also, get pieces of every thickness on the plane. .015, .025, .032 and .040. Make a set of dimple tokens. Each dimple die size for each thickness. They are handy for getting parts to nest perfectly.
https://drive.google.com/open?id=0B7...ERULWRDekZYTTA