Which torque wrench?

[wirejock]

I have two CDI torque wrenches.
One 1/4 and one 3/8. Covers everything.
I understand CDI makes Snap On torque wrenches.
Either way they are very nice.

[Thermos]

I bought one of these CDI wrenches from Avery Tools years ago when I started my project. Cleaveland sells them now -

https://www.cleavelandtool.com/produ...18378249044030

It's not the cheapest torque wrench you'll find, but it's an excellent US-made tool.

HTH, YMMV...

Dave

[rjcthree]

You take them both to work and cal them both! Seriously, you do the mass- distance cal or send them out. Yes, it’s happened. It’s still better to know something might be whacked, right? Admittedly, I only do this after long periods of not using them

[N941WR]

Originally Posted by RV7A Flyer

And if they're different? Which one is wrong?

I take all of mine to a local shop every few years that can certify them back to the NIST standards. Maybe it's overkill for our planes, but IMO, there's a right way to do things...

There are a number of videos on YouTube that show how to test and calibrate torque wrenches, here is just one: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lZUDH13yln0

[Dave12]

Originally Posted by cderk

I would be interested in knowing how accurate that thing is. have you compared it or calibrated it to a known good torque wrench?

I have a bunch of torque wrenches. HF and SnapOn. One is no more accurate than the other. Calibration has been checked.

[gasman]

Originally Posted by N941WR

I have a large beam style torque wrench. They don't go out of calibration, unless you drop them, which is no different than any other toque wrench.

The one I have is a Vintage Craftsman from about 1983.

They even survive a drop. Just read the scale before use and make any adjustments needed to "O". The pointer does not move during use. And the main beam can only be changed with a great amount of heat.

The main advantage is the head is a lot smaller than a click wrench that it can fit where the click won't. And they never need calibration.

[N941WR]

Originally Posted by gasman

They even survive a drop. Just read the scale before use and make any adjustments needed to "O". The pointer does not move during use. And the main beam can only be changed with a great amount of heat.

The main advantage is the head is a lot smaller than a click wrench that it can fit where the click won't. And they never need calibration.

No, I read an article that says if the main beam is "work hardened" by dropping it, the beam flexes at a different rate, throwing off the reading, regardless of zeroing the pointer bar. Sorry, I couldn't find that article.

I had no idea that was even possible. Just shows you learn something new every day.

(I wish I could buy a split beam torque wrench with a ratchet head! I've never seen such a thing.)

[gasman]

This ..... https://www.harborfreight.com/12-in-...ter-63917.html is very accurate and consistent that I use it to check all of my torque wrenches.

[swordtail]

That's the one to own! Electronic wrenches are accurate and repeatable. Your beam type wrenches accuracy is 10-20%, HF is 1-2%. So which one would you use?

[FinnFlyer]

Originally Posted by swordtail

That's the one to own! Electronic wrenches are accurate and repeatable. Your beam type wrenches accuracy is 10-20%, HF is 1-2%. So which one would you use?

Worked fine at first, but now my HF eats batteries like there's no tomorrow.

I guess for occasional use one could hook up an external battery.

Finn