SteinAir Wiring Harness/Cutting AOA Mast opening

Blizzard · #1 04-12-2020, 11:06 AM

Just received my Garmin roll servo and assembled wiring harness for it from SteinAir. D-sub on each end. No way that's going thru the grommets..not even sure the wiring bundle without the D-subs on the end would go thru. Fairly heavy sheathing around bundle. Is it ok to route through the lightening holes and what would you use to secure the wire bundle thru the lightening holes. Conduit would be too small.

When prewiring for Zip Tips...what type wire do you use?

Can't find anything on techniques for cutting the opening of the bottom skin for the pitot/aoa mast. Gretz mount. Good instructions on mounting the bracket but nothing when it comes to actually cutting into the skin. Get one shot at it!!!

Thanks

Electrogunner · #2 04-12-2020, 11:12 AM

I would disassemble the d sub to run the cables, then re pin the connector. It?s only a couple wires going to the servo and it will be good practice. You can get the pin extractor from stein.

PilotjohnS · #3 04-12-2020, 11:30 AM

So where does the 9 pin sub D connector go? I had Stein make up the same harness for me. It seems like the wires in this harness goes to many places.

jliltd · #4 04-12-2020, 12:24 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by PilotjohnS

So where does the 9 pin sub D connector go? I had Stein make up the same harness for me. It seems like the wires in this harness goes to many places.

Your question isn't very clear without knowing more. What you have. What you are trying to do. Etc... Context.

So, taking the time to look at your blog, I think the only LRU or panel mount item on your list that uses a standard density 9-pin connector is your G5 backup EFIS. As to your other question a harness is designed to go as many places as you have components, hence the obsevation of "many wires going to many places".

As long as the wires are pinned it isn't hard to populate the connectors and install the backshell. Look up SteinAir videos on YouTube. A magnifying glass and both a standard density and high density inserter/extractor are handy in case a contact is inserted into the wrong position on the Dsub.

Blizzard · #5 04-12-2020, 02:09 PM

I have a "blog" ??? And a "List" ??? News to me!! LOL

PilotjohnS · #6 04-12-2020, 02:16 PM

Sorry, I hijacked your thread. I think he was talking to me about my comment on the 9 pinned from Steinair. I looked at my harness in the wing and I have decided i will cut the 9 pinner off and use another connector. I know more now than I knew then, so I should have just bought the servo connector and wired it up myself. Stein made a generic connector, but now I have a more custom harness.
But the harness he made is a work of art. I might even hang it on the wall!

Jpm757 · #7 04-12-2020, 02:22 PM

Regarding the Gretz mount, trace the opening on the bottom of the wing, enlarge the hole as much as you can with a Unibit then use a nibbler and files to finish the job.

BillL · #8 04-12-2020, 04:51 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Electrogunner

I would disassemble the d sub to run the cables, then re pin the connector. It?s only a couple wires going to the servo and it will be good practice. You can get the pin extractor from stein.

Best Answer: Definitely don't hesitate to de-pin or (as a last resort) cut off the sub and re- terminate at the end point.

rockwoodrv9 · #9 04-12-2020, 05:40 PM

If I understand your question, do as Bill said - disassemble the connection and take the pins out, run the wires and then reassemble. It is MUCH easier if you make a diagram and photo to remember it by. The wires for my wing servos were longer than I needed so I ended up cutting about 8" off to make it fit better.

I was worried about taking it apart because it was my first experience with d-sub pins. It was easier than I thought and took less time than I had spent worrying about it.

GeoffP · #10 04-12-2020, 09:34 PM

I had a dynon mount not a gretz, but I believe the mast shape is still the same. Perhaps there is a cut-out template available somewhere for your mount? With the Dynon one I photocopied the template, laid it on the skin using a line through the spar flange rivet holes as a reference, marked the forward & rearward hole centres and drilled them, then used a dremel to cut out the rest of the shape. Files and scotchbrite & a sanding wheel on the dremel finished it off. I was just as reluctant when I cut the skin, but it turned out really well.

As for the harness, though this doesn't help considering your situation, I'm kinda doing what you'll end up doing in reverse. I made my own harness up, so I cut all my wires and have terminated with D-Sub pins. These will get pulled through a conduit (1/2" or so), then when everything is in place, I'll put on the D-Sub housing, connect to the roll servo, and secure everything with brackets.