Dimpling with Numatx Squeezer - Help

[jnicko93]

Hi All,

First time poster - please take it easy on me.
I recently purchased a Numatx squeezer, so far I've been really impressed with how easy it makes setting rivets however I'm having some issues when it comes to dimpling.

When using the 1.75” compression pin the dies don’t fully come together and lead to under dimpling. (This picture is actuated)



However when I use the 2” compression pin there isn’t enough of a gap to fit the material between the dies prior to actuation. (This picture is prior to actuation)



I have tried using dies from both cleaveland and ATS and have used both the 3” C Yoke and the longeron yoke. The flush rivet sets seem to work OK with the 2” compression pin as they don’t have the dimple pilot, however I do have to remove the yoke to swap out sets – is this normal?

I have scratched my head for a while now and I am sure it is probably operator error – however I can’t seem to figure out were I have gone wrong. Can anyone shed any light?

Many thanks,
Jake

[mike newall]

Jack the dies out with #10 washers like you would in a normal squeezer.

[MS19087]

Originally Posted by mike newall

Jack the dies out with #10 washers like you would in a normal squeezer.

Very simple and acceptable.

[jnicko93]

Thanks guys, thought that might be the case but I hadn't seen it done on the numatx

[BobbyLucas]

Related question: Is the Numatx strong enough to sufficiently dimple nutplates? (I secretly hope the answer is no so I'm not tempted to spend more money )

[Becssc]

I used Cleaveland dies and had no issues. As far as nutplates, no issues. Just bent them slightly and had to straighten.

[Stockmanreef]

I used the Numatx to dimple nutplates, but I stopped dimpling nut plates when I was told an easier way to put in nut plates. But with that said, I have the old Numatx (2013). Mine has the adjustable piston that screws in and out.

Cheater Rivet Method:

Use cheater rivets with small heads. Then use a deburring tool to counter sink the rivets. NAS1097AD3-3 or 3-4 from Wicks Aircraft Supply. The counter sink is very shallow. These rivets are enough to hold the nut plates in place securely. I very rarely dimple nut plates any more. I typically undimple nut plates and then put them in, when I can't find the non-dimple version.

I wish I had know this method when I did the wings (the first thing I put together on the 14).

[tfoster100]

Stockmanreef. I had not heard of that method for nutplates. That sounds like a game changer. What a time saving. Thanks

[penguin]

Just be careful that you don't load up the cheater rivets - its possible to pull the head off if too much torque is applied to the nut plate. Other than that its a great time saver - about 10 turns of a cranked deburrer.

[Larco]

From post #7 by Ken. Use cheater rivets with small heads. Then use a deburring tool to counter sink the rivets. NAS1097AD3-3 or 3-4 from Wicks Aircraft Supply. The counter sink is very shallow. These rivets are enough to hold the nut plates in place securely. I very rarely dimple nut plates any more. I typically undimple nut plates and then put them in, when I can't find the non-dimple version.

Yup, These rivets will make your day in many cases! You might also want to have a few of the NAS1097AD4-6 to trim to length in case you screwup a #40 hole. 3/32 head with 1/8th stem. Some call them OOPS rivets. ��