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  #1  
Old 03-26-2020, 08:53 PM
MElstien MElstien is offline
 
Join Date: Jan 2013
Location: Kinnelon NJ
Posts: 164
Default Running of the Power Wires - wisdom of the crowd

Hello, tonight I was running my #2 AWG red power wire as per VANs diagram OP37-11. The problem is that in the location where it slips under the step, it may rub against the step bolt, abrade the jacket and short. This would ruin my day

I could wrap a flange around the step tube and route the wire outside the flange.

I could fasten a clamp to the bottom skin or at the bottom of the baggage floor rib and secure it that way away from the bolt.
I could 3D print a part that fits over the bolt, and following the curve of the step weldment and extends enough to provide clearance for the bolt and secure it to the weldment with cable ties. I like this the best. Maybe because I get to play with 3D printing.

I am done for the night but maybe the wisdom of the crowd has a better answer for me tomorrow. My goal is to keep this leg of the run, from the rear seat pan to the rear of the baggage compartment "pullable", meaning if I need to fish a new line or pull extra cable I still can. Currently I have fastened using a cushioned cable clamp at the rear baggage bulkhead per plans.

To add to that complication, this is also where I plan to mount 2 delta pop com antennas (36 inches apart). I have an access cover for the step bolt on each side and thought it would be a good place for 2 antennas.


2 pictures and the Vans diagram are located here: http://elstien.us/wordpress/?attachment_id=1176

I want to button up the baggage floor and rear seat pans and move on to the baggage bulkhead, baggage door and canopy.

Thank you in advance for any ideas.
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Builders Blog http://elstien.us/wordpress/
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Tail Kit delivered 6-2013
Finished QB wings on September 2018
Moved to Port Orange Florida November 2018
Tailcone mounted to Fuselage on 3-1-2020
Finished Fuselage April / May 2020
Working working working on Doors
Engine Ordered (BPA/Fly-EFII 8/1/2020
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Last edited by MElstien : 03-26-2020 at 09:35 PM.
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  #2  
Old 03-26-2020, 09:48 PM
Richard Connell Richard Connell is offline
 
Join Date: Aug 2006
Location: Sydney Australia
Posts: 220
Default

I fastened a clamp to the rib. Holds the wire low enough to clear the bolt and step
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  #3  
Old 03-26-2020, 11:51 PM
BobTurner BobTurner is offline
 
Join Date: Dec 2011
Location: Livermore, CA
Posts: 6,767
Default

+1 on tying/ clamping. That?s a pretty heavy wire to be flopping around.
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  #4  
Old 03-27-2020, 05:07 AM
leok leok is offline
 
Join Date: Apr 2013
Location: Clarkston, MI
Posts: 371
Default Add a little slack

Add a little slack in the wire and bend it out and around the area of the bolt. The wire will hold it's shape just fine so long as there is no load pulling it back into a line. If you are still concerned add enough slack to zip tie the wire to your wire conduit. That will really get it away from the bolt at the minimal expense of a few jnches of wire.

Another helpful hint; Pull a string through each of your wire conduits and just leave it there. You can use it to pull wires through in the future. Tie a small tissue on the end of the string and pull it through with a shop vac. I left a double length of string with a loop in the middle to fasten wires so I could pull a wire through and still have the string in place to pull the next wire through. I tied a small loop of conduit on each end of the string to keep from loosing it.
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Last edited by leok : 03-27-2020 at 05:18 AM.
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  #5  
Old 03-27-2020, 05:40 AM
Simon Hitchen Simon Hitchen is offline
 
Join Date: Apr 2006
Posts: 290
Default Longer bolt

How about using the next bolt size up to hold the step and use an adel (cushion) clamp under the nut to secure the cable. Don?t leave it loose.
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  #6  
Old 03-27-2020, 08:59 AM
MElstien MElstien is offline
 
Join Date: Jan 2013
Location: Kinnelon NJ
Posts: 164
Default Power wire support solved Thank you

Good Morning,

Sometimes you just need to step away. In my case, it was get some sleep. I came in this AM and instead of cursing the bolt, I embraced it.

Like Leok and Simin suggested, use the bolt as a fastening device. I drilled a hole for the AN3 bolt in my right angle cable guides that I made, inserted a snap bushing in the larger hole and slipped it over the bolt.

Washer, right angle guide and then nylock nut. I used a thin washer. I just need to torque and apply torque proof.

This solution will keep it away from the bolt and allow for a "pullable" wire. How pullable a #2 is will be debatable, but if I need some slack from service loop, it will be pullable.

I will put pull cords in each conduit. Thank you for the reminder.

Thanks to the access panel I installed on the baggage floor over the step tube, I can access service this bolt from the top.

Picture link below.

http://elstien.us/wordpress/?attachment_id=1185

http://elstien.us/wordpress/?attachment_id=1190

http://elstien.us/wordpress/?attachment_id=1192


Thank you everyone,
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Michael
Builders Blog http://elstien.us/wordpress/
RV-10 Builder
Tail Kit delivered 6-2013
Finished QB wings on September 2018
Moved to Port Orange Florida November 2018
Tailcone mounted to Fuselage on 3-1-2020
Finished Fuselage April / May 2020
Working working working on Doors
Engine Ordered (BPA/Fly-EFII 8/1/2020
Dues Paid through 2020
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  #7  
Old 03-27-2020, 09:16 AM
AdamB AdamB is offline
 
Join Date: Dec 2008
Location: NH
Posts: 221
Default

Perfect!!!
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  #8  
Old 03-27-2020, 01:57 PM
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MCA MCA is offline
 
Join Date: Jun 2005
Posts: 693
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Looks clean!

I'm glad you used a snap bushing instead of a rubber grommet.
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