Rusting powdercoat

[PaulvS]

My RV-6A finishing kit from 2000 has been stored inside my shop during a very slow build. Most parts are still OK however the canopy frame and roll bar were not covered over and there is filliform type corrosion on the surfaces where dust settled. My bad, I guess, for not keeping covered, as I thought powdercoat was impervious. As an aside, I was never really happy with the factory powdercoating on the frame because there was marker pen lettering showing through and baked into the coating.
Now I think I need to take it all back to bare metal and refinish, in either new powdercoat or epoxy.
I've tried sanding the coating and it comes off gradually. Is there an easier or better way to get it off?

https://drive.google.com/file/d/1Ljk...w?usp=drivesdk

https://drive.google.com/file/d/1Ll5...w?usp=drivesdk

[Taltruda]

I too have an early kit. Some of my HS hinges were like that. I media blasted them bare, then did AKZO. For the VS, I just used maroon scotch Brite pads, as I plan on painting the entire area when the time comes. I noticed some powder coat chipped off when the rivet expanded, so I touched the bare metal with epoxy primer on a brush. .The media I used was some plastic media that wasn't really aggressive. .probably would have been better (and quicker) with glass beads or sand blasting, as it would leave a prepared surface for the primer to bite into.

[Ed_Wischmeyer]

The steps on my RV-9A were powdercoated but now show erosion and rust on the front sides...

[decathlon737]

Parts are soaked in hydrochloric acid to remove powder coat, works in minutes, neutralize in water, paint or re powder coat, like new.

[RV7A Flyer]

I believe any shop that does powdercoat can remove the old coating prior to refinishing, at a cost, of course.

[AlexPeterson]

Originally Posted by decathlon737

Parts are soaked in hydrochloric acid to remove powder coat, works in minutes, neutralize in water, paint or re powder coat, like new.

"Honey, really, it won't hurt the bathtub to fill it full of acid, just don't step in"...

[Saville]

At the risk of starting another Prime War:

I intend to remove the powder coat from the top of my new stick so that the Infinity Grip fits. I may even have to reduce the diameter of the stick a little.

I'd like to just prime the bare steel. I don't expect to do a lot of steel priming so I'm wondering what would be a simple, effective way to do this.

Rattle can zinc chromate?

Thanks!

[Marc Bourget]

My impression is that the original prep for the powder coat was insufficient.

Had a shop two doors down from a Powder Coating business.

Jerry was a great guy. Every stage of his "personal tour" witnessed him stressing maintaining cleanliness of the part to be coated.

FWIW

[JonJay]

You can remove powder coating like any other paint. Mechanically, or with paint stripper.
For priming, you can use whatever primer of your choice. I wanted a different color for my roll bar and canopy frame and just scuffed it up and primed with P60G because that?s what I had hanging around. Most consider P60G for aluminum but it works great on steel although I prefer epoxy on bare metal.

For the stick, just mask off and use a commercial paint stripper. It comes off easily.

[decathlon737]

Originally Posted by AlexPeterson

"Honey, really, it won't hurt the bathtub to fill it full of acid, just don't step in"...

Very good friend has a powder coat shop, he placed my 2005 era unused grey engine mount in his vat, 15 minutes later it was shiny bare metal, 30 minutes later it was the new vans white, I was there less than an hour for the whole process, he said for bigger items that won't fit in the vat he sprayed them while hanging with the acid and kept them wet for several minutes till the coat started falling off.