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02-15-2020, 11:37 AM
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Join Date: Sep 2019
Location: Edmonds, WA
Posts: 105
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Why is that bracket used on PP and apparently not on B&C? I looked at the B&C install and it doesn't have it.
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02-15-2020, 12:12 PM
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Join Date: Jul 2013
Location: US
Posts: 2,251
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Without implying anything, can I ask why you had the alternator off last annual? This seems like one of those MIFs that Mike Busch talks about so much that we need to be extra-careful to avoid when doing MX?
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02-16-2020, 02:19 PM
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Join Date: Apr 2009
Location: Stockton, California
Posts: 296
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Isn't the solution for a castellated nut that won't "line up" a different washer stack?
Maybe even a custom thickness washer?
FWIW
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02-16-2020, 06:12 PM
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Join Date: Oct 2006
Location: Garden City, Tx
Posts: 5,145
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RV7A Flyer
Without implying anything, can I ask why you had the alternator off last annual? This seems like one of those MIFs that Mike Busch talks about so much that we need to be extra-careful to avoid when doing MX?
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If I remember correctly, I didn't actually pull it off - I loosened it to remove the belt to look for wear on the belt, and spin the pulley to listen to the bearings and make sure all was well.
It's entirely possible I didn't get enough torque on it when it went back together. Most of my major mistakes require a divorce attorney, this one just needed a new bracket.
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Greg Niehues - SEL, IFR, Repairman Cert.
Garden City, TX VAF 2020 dues paid 
N16GN flying 700 hrs and counting; IO360, SDS, WWRV200, Dynon HDX, 430W
Built an off-plan RV9A with too much fuel and too much HP. Should drop dead any minute now.
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02-17-2020, 03:08 PM
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Join Date: Jul 2013
Location: US
Posts: 2,251
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Quote:
Originally Posted by airguy
If I remember correctly, I didn't actually pull it off - I loosened it to remove the belt to look for wear on the belt, and spin the pulley to listen to the bearings and make sure all was well.
It's entirely possible I didn't get enough torque on it when it went back together. Most of my major mistakes require a divorce attorney, this one just needed a new bracket.
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That's not a bad idea (checking the belt and bearings, not the divorce  ), but I wonder if there's a way to do it without loosening the alternator bracket...from way way WAY back in my youth, I recall that when working on autos one could put a belt on or take it off by putting a screwdriver or some other pry bar underneath the belt and rotating the alternator or whatever, to "roll" the belt on or off...might something like that technique work here? Dunno, maybe a bad idea in an aircraft installation, but it worked on the buckets of bolts we had to keep running to get to classes in college  .
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02-17-2020, 03:29 PM
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Join Date: Apr 2011
Location: Cincinnati, OH
Posts: 2,791
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Walt
Do yourself a favor and get a B&C now.
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ditto.......
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Steve Melton
Cincinnati, OH
RV-9A, Tip-up, Superior O-320, roller lifters, 160HP, WW 200RV, dual impulse slick mags, oil pressure = 65 psi, EGT = 1300F, flight hours = 800+ for all
Simplicity is the art in design.
My Artwork is freely given and published and cannot be patented.
www.rvplasticparts.com
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02-21-2020, 07:51 AM
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Join Date: Jan 2020
Location: Vancouver, WA
Posts: 3
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Ditch Plane Power
and get a B&C.
I had something similar (wear issues) happen with my first Plane Power. So I replaced it with a new one.
I didn't blame Plane Power for incorrect torque.
But, the second one lasted only 200 hours and failed due to only charging at 1/2 capacity. I'm now flying on a Plane Power with internal parts from a 9 year old Plane Power (better quality then) and a case from a 200 hour Plane Power.
Condition inspection soon.. B&C for me!
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