Fuel Float Sensors - Sealing Them to the Tank

[Capflyer]

I know this has been answered before but I cannot find the threads.

It's finally time to mount my wings as I have waited until the last minute to do so and glad I did. Made it much easier to work around and in the plane. I never put in my fuel float sensors so thats my job tomorrow.

On the fuel tanks the large plate that the senders attach to has a cork gasket. I do remember most saying to not use that which I concure with. The float sensors come with a rubber gasket and hence my question on those. Should I use the rubber gasket or not? I have plenty of proseal and happy to use it all up.

Thanks

[Mel]

I don't use any gaskets. Just proseal for all plates and fuel gauge senders.

[Larco]

Right on Mel.

[LettersFromFlyoverCountry]

I didn't use the rubber gasket because, it seemed to me, it didn't leave much room to get many threads engaged.

On the cork gasket thing, two experiences. When building the tanks originally, I ProSealed the cork gasket on one, I didn't ProSeal the gasket on the other.

When the SB came out, of course, I had to remove both. I removed the one with the cork first. On that one the cork was to be the "sacrificial lamb" according to the instructions if you ever had to remove it. I was, finally, able to get it off and I did not find it appreciably easier to do so. Further, cork remnant was left on the outboard rib which had to be removed with a dremel and brush. Thus, lots of little pieces of junk threatened to get in the tank on cleanup.

For the ProSeal only, because I was only breaking one bond, I guess, I found it easier to remove the unit. And the debris that was left to clean up was much less.

[Mel]

I've also found on RVs brought to me for annual condition inspections that the cork gaskets begin to seep after several years.

[Gsuit]

Ok. I sealed my fuel sender access covers with proseal - came out great. Then, I thought I was going to do the same for the fuel senders themselves...

Well, the little 25g proseal kit from Van's hardened all of a sudden, and I had one sender gooped up with what I thought was enough Proseal. However, it didn't cover all the way around nor squeeze out like a gasket when I screwed it down. So, now I need to get the fuel sender back out, but can't seem to budge the proseal! I tried getting a little thin screwdriver under there, a paint scraper... nothin'!

Any one have any suggestions how to get this off?

[Mel]

I've always used a sharp putty knife and had no problem.

[pecanflyboy]

Proseal ONLY! Van's Float Seal Bending Diagram specifically says to discard the rubber gasket supplied with the sender. I just replaced my 11 year old senders, and I was shocked to find the builder only used the rubber gasket. It was not leaking, but the gasket fell apart as I removed the sender. It was cracked throughout. Just a matter of time before I had big problems. The only good part is the senders came out easily and prep for the proseal was a piece of cake (no sealant to clean up!).

[JonJay]

Make sure you scuff up an area around one of the screws and install a ground lug. I mistakenly thought the screws thru the nut plates was adequate and it was, for a few years. Going back later and adding a ground is much harder than doing it now.

[KayS]

Would it be OK to cover the cork and rubber gasket with Permatex #2? Should seal the area and is easier to remove later...?