Struggling with tank skins

[David Paule]

On my RV-3B, I used Howe Fittings, the wooden gadgets, to help with the shape.



These changed the angle of the tiedowns and gave a better shape.

If the leading edge portion of the rib starts to crush down, you can use supports like these. These were on the outboard part of the wing, but the same would work for the tanks.



The threaded rod kept the ribs in position.

Dave

[sblack]

Originally Posted by MS1095

Are you using the proper size spacers behind the tank baffle? I cut several blocks out of MDF and had to experiment with different sizes to get the skin just right.

Yes I had to experiment with that.

[sblack]

Dave thanks for the pictures that?s awesome. Holds the ribs in perfect alignment to.

[sblack]

Originally Posted by RussellT

This pic shows the amount of leading edge pre bend from the factory with my RV 3B wing kit. It played quite nicely without undue force. If (as you say) you are starting with flat stock then a substantial pre form of the leading edge will make it whole lot easier. Hopefully your predrilled top holes with still line up.

Russell

Thanks Russell. My skins are only at 90 deg. That?s the big difference. I wrestled with them some more and I think I have it now. Thanks and thanks to all who responded especially with pictures. Makes a huge difference.

[Gusmax]

Look up (vacuum forming leading edge skins) on YouTube. There are all sorts of videos on doing it with a shop vac.

[FinnFlyer]

I did the leading edge skin first.

With the W-423 strip in place, you have a reference for the tank skin. Not sure how it would work the other way.

Finn

[Little Al]

Worse case scenario I have a set of RV4 tank skins and rear tank bulkheads I would part with if things dont work out.