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  #21  
Old 12-06-2019, 04:31 AM
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Nedimbek Nedimbek is offline
 
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Location: Calgary, Alberta
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Default Proper use of wheel

Can one of you, the ?experienced? guys, post a couple of pictures of properly deburred parts using 6? the 3M 7A wheel?
Thank you in advance.
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  #22  
Old 12-06-2019, 07:22 AM
Outrider Outrider is offline
 
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Location: Texas
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Also, if anybody has links to deburring wheels they mounted in their drill press or die grinder, that would be VERY helpful.
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  #23  
Old 12-06-2019, 08:06 AM
leok leok is offline
 
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Location: Clarkston, MI
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Here is a link for the 2" wheel.

http://www.cleavelandtool.com/3M-Cut.../#.Xeptjm5Fw6Y

You will need to order a mandrill as well. I have both the screw on and bolt on types. Both work well. I don't recall exactly where I got mine, but believe HF has them for a few bucks.
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Last edited by leok : 12-06-2019 at 08:15 AM.
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  #24  
Old 12-06-2019, 12:05 PM
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Default Cratex?

Do any of you guys use Cratex products for deburring? When I was a machinist (in another life) we used them all the time. https://www.cratex.com/
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  #25  
Old 12-06-2019, 12:52 PM
lr172 lr172 is offline
 
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I use files. Can use fine for many jobs, course for some of the rough stuff from the factory punches/lasers. I use drill bits for holes use round files of varying sized for inernal curves, crannies, etc.

I shoot for smoth, not necessarilly super smooth, unless the edge will be visible or touched.

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  #26  
Old 12-06-2019, 02:03 PM
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JonJay JonJay is offline
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by snopercod View Post
Do any of you guys use Cratex products for deburring? When I was a machinist (in another life) we used them all the time. https://www.cratex.com/
What?s the substrate? With aluminum, it?s as much about the carrier or substrate as it is the abrasive. Aluminum ?loads? up readily, that is why Scotchbrite products works so well, they carry the abrasive in loose, open webbed, substrate that allows the material to ?exit?.
This product looks like it might load up easily but I have never used it.
Like a grinding wheel, which works great on steel, It does not work on aluminum.
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  #27  
Old 12-06-2019, 04:13 PM
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snopercod snopercod is offline
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JonJay View Post
What?s the substrate?
It's some kind of rubber. It doesn't load up. I really don't know how well it performs on aluminum, but I thought I would bring it up.
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  #28  
Old 12-06-2019, 04:38 PM
Girraf Girraf is offline
 
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I'm probably in the "deburr more than I need to" category. I too wonder if I'm spending too much time doing it but on the other hand I hear from experienced builders that a big chunk of the build hours winds up being some type of deburring task.

For thin skin edges I run a file over them until the shear marks are mostly gone, then sand smooth with 320 emory cloth and finish with a wipe of scotch brite hand pad. For the substructures, I'll use some form of 3m wheel (6" on the bench, 2" or 1" in a die grinder). Intricate areas like the LE/tank ribs get a flossing with emory cloth and man that took forever. Lightening holes get the small 3m wheel. Everything usually gets a final touch up with a hand pad.

I always struggle to decide if I've deburred a rivet hole enough with my speed deburr tool. light pressure, 1-2 turns is all I do and I seem to always get just the smallest ring of shiny around each hole
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  #29  
Old 12-06-2019, 05:20 PM
DaveLS DaveLS is offline
 
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I wonder what Cessna does. Will have to look into a wing at the ribs.
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  #30  
Old 12-06-2019, 09:27 PM
Thierry A Thierry A is offline
 
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I use a 90 deg die grinder with 3M roloc type surface conditioning disk (scotchbrite) almost exclusively. typically one pass along the the edge will do the job. I have one of the 3M 7 inch de-burring wheels that I've only used a couple of times. Files and emery cloth are also beneficial in some instances.
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