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  #1  
Old 11-28-2019, 11:39 AM
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dave4754 dave4754 is offline
 
Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: Edson, Alberta, Canada
Posts: 483
Default Painted finally, but not happy

Well after 9 years of building i finally starting to paint then will move parts to airport in Dec.

I am using a two part polyurethane paint over an AksoNobel primer. I am using a Devilbiss gun moderate price range(400 Cdn.) and a 60 Gallon 3 HP compressor. I also thinned about 15 %, the Paint is made by Besa very much like Imron or Endura.

The disappointing part is the paint went to a matte finish and not the glossy one I wanted, no runs.... but no gloss.

Any ideas on what i did wrong?

Dave
p.s. i searched the forum but if there are conversations on this please point me to them.
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  #2  
Old 11-28-2019, 11:48 AM
Kyle Boatright Kyle Boatright is offline
 
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Location: Atlanta, GA
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That can happen if the paint cures at a relatively low temperature. How warm or cold was it in the 8 (?) hours following paint application?

Alternately, this can happen (to some extent) if you don't apply enough paint for it to flow a little after application.

I assume this was a single stage paint (which doesn't require clearcoat)?
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  #3  
Old 11-28-2019, 12:03 PM
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9GT 9GT is offline
 
Join Date: Jan 2010
Location: Southern Michigan
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Kyle Boatright View Post
That can happen if the paint cures at a relatively low temperature. How warm or cold was it in the 8 (?) hours following paint application?

Alternately, this can happen (to some extent) if you don't apply enough paint for it to flow a little after application.

I assume this was a single stage paint (which doesn't require clearcoat)?
What Kyle said. Put it on too heavy and you will get runs. Doing it just right, the paint coat will appear matte like and then after a few seconds appear to "melt" together in a gloss finish. It won't do that if the temperature of the shop is too cool.
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  #4  
Old 11-28-2019, 01:25 PM
lr172 lr172 is offline
 
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Location: Schaumburg, IL
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Yuo say it “went” to a matte finish. Did it lay down glossy then turn Matte? Sure it wasn’t dry spray? Hat would be my first guess for an amatuer. No runs on a first paint job would make that more likely. Dry spray looks matte, but is really a very rough surface texture. Cut and buff may not work if coats are really thin.

Either way, try wet sanding with 1500 then buff. It should then be glossy unless there was an issue with the curing. Is the paint hard or soft. As others said, most paint most be sprayed at 60-65* and maintain that for a couple of hours afterward
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Last edited by lr172 : 11-28-2019 at 01:30 PM.
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  #5  
Old 11-28-2019, 08:16 PM
Maxrate Maxrate is offline
 
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Location: League city, TX
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Dave, I see your in Canada. If it was below the 70s and high humidity it may have blushed on you. I assume single stage paint. You said it?s like Imron. I have had good luck with letting polyurethane enamel cure for a week and wet sand with 1200G then cut and buff. Dan Horton has a good step by step tutorial here on the VAF on buffing paint. Don?t listen to the naysayers about cutting and buffing urethane. It can be done just fine but has to cure at least a good week. It will come out to a mirror shine!
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  #6  
Old 11-28-2019, 08:34 PM
Kyle Boatright Kyle Boatright is offline
 
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Location: Atlanta, GA
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Maxrate View Post
Dave, I see your in Canada. If it was below the 70s and high humidity it may have blushed on you. I assume single stage paint. You said it’s like Imron. I have had good luck with letting polyurethane enamel cure for a week and wet sand with 1200G then cut and buff. Dan Horton has a good step by step tutorial here on the VAF on buffing paint. Don’t listen to the naysayers about cutting and buffing urethane. It can be done just fine but has to cure at least a good week. It will come out to a mirror shine!
This is good advice if the paint blushed. I would suggest starting with 1200 and finishing with 2000 grit before buffing. In this case (blush) you don't need to remove much material.
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  #7  
Old 11-28-2019, 11:19 PM
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PaulvS PaulvS is offline
 
Join Date: Aug 2019
Location: Western Australia
Posts: 333
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I find it helpful to have some oblique lighting that reflects off of the surface being painted. When there is (just) enough fresh paint sprayed it looks shiny when viewing the reflection of the light at an angle. Otherwise, it can be difficult to tell if there is enough paint on by looking directly at the surface. Too much paint however and it runs of course.
I'm not sure what prior experience you've had painting but it may be worth practicing on an old car fender, hood etc. Even using some low cost acrylic or enamel would be good for practice.
p.s. I hope you are using hobbyair fresh air respirator or similar to protect your lungs and skin!
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  #8  
Old 11-29-2019, 05:20 AM
bobnoffs bobnoffs is offline
 
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i don't have experience with anything but poly fiber on cloth but i have to ask why you don't just add another coat after the proper wait time if the dull finish is smooth?seems much quicker and easier?
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  #9  
Old 11-29-2019, 05:44 AM
Kyle Boatright Kyle Boatright is offline
 
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Location: Atlanta, GA
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bobnoffs View Post
i don't have experience with anything but poly fiber on cloth but i have to ask why you don't just add another coat after the proper wait time if the dull finish is smooth?seems much quicker and easier?
It would be helpful if the OP would supply a bit of feedback on the temperatures his parts were subject to while curing. More paint will just blush again if that was the problem and it remains cold in his shop.
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  #10  
Old 11-29-2019, 06:19 AM
bobnoffs bobnoffs is offline
 
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kyle,
i would expect it would but i am questioning buffing out the present paint vs. repainting.
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