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11-16-2019, 07:48 PM
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Join Date: Jul 2011
Location: Dallas, TX
Posts: 321
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DIY Braided fuel lines?
Did anyone buy the Aero Equip kit from Vans and make your own braided fuel/oil or brake lines? Seems like that would save a ton of money doing it yourself...
Thinking this is easier than the aluminium lines and the fittings are perfect.
__________________
Bob
RV-10 QB Here 8-25-19
RV-7
My brain shows a remarkable capacity to not willingly accept information that it considered useless.
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11-16-2019, 08:26 PM
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Join Date: Dec 2008
Location: League city, TX
Posts: 544
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Do yourself a big favor and call Tom at TS flightlines. I'm on my second plane using all of his lines after butchering a bunch of tubing. After the investment in the tools to make the bends and flare equiptment it's not that much more in cost. His customer service is impecable!
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Mark Malone, RV7
Wings complete, SB 14 complied with, canopy and cowling in progress, Up on the gear.
N442MM reserved
http://www.mykitlog.com/MikeMike
2020 Donation gladly paid..
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11-16-2019, 08:49 PM
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Join Date: Sep 2007
Location: BC
Posts: 1,674
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I second the suggestion to call Tom. You won?t regret it.
Bevan
Quote:
Originally Posted by Maxrate
Do yourself a big favor and call Tom at TS flightlines. I'm on my second plane using all of his lines after butchering a bunch of tubing. After the investment in the tools to make the bends and flare equiptment it's not that much more in cost. His customer service is impecable!
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__________________
RV7A Flying since 2015
O-360-A1F6 (parallel valve) 180HP
Dual P-mags
Precision F.I. with AP purge valve
Vinyl Wrapped Exterior
Grand Rapids EFIS
Located in western Canada
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11-16-2019, 09:01 PM
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Join Date: Aug 2007
Location: Ontario, Canada
Posts: 2,291
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Professionally-fabricated lines are great. Tom and Steve will do a wonderful job of them.
Keep in mind that standard Aeroquip lines (Aeroquip 303) have a fairly short service life - some say 5 years, some say 10 years. Go with conductive Teflon with stainless overbraid and you move away from those life limits.
Also, be aware that one can get that fancy conductive Teflon / braided stainless line from racing shops and can fabricate one's own hoses. It's pretty much tool-less, save for a cutoff wheel in a Dremel tool. I made my own brake lines using "Earls" branded fittings and hose - pretty inexpensive and yet produce a professional-looking hose. The assembly technique is nearly goof-proof as well.
This fancy hose is also available with a clear protective sheath over the outside as well, making it quite good for applications where the abrasive nature of the stainless over-braid might be a concern.
I wouldn't fabricate another Aeroquip 303 line if I had an alternative.
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11-16-2019, 09:31 PM
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Join Date: Dec 2007
Location: Brentwood, CA
Posts: 659
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To answer your question, the kit Van's sells is fine, but you can also buy excellent stuff from places like AN Plumbing and do it yourself - definitely in the spirit of building your own aircraft.
While I'm sure the folks advertised here do a fine job, I've made my own brake, fuel and oil lines for a couple airplanes now. It's pretty easy with the modern fittings and very doable in the garage with wrenches.
__________________
Ron Gawer
- RV10, Build in progress.
- RV12, N975G, "The Commuter"...many great hours and happy landings so far.
- Several others that are now just great memories for me.
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11-16-2019, 09:53 PM
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Join Date: Oct 2013
Location: Schaumburg, IL
Posts: 5,297
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I made all of my FF lines. I used the aeroquip racing hose, aeroquip fittings for teflon and Earls fittings for rubber. I used rubber for the fuel lines (-6 only) and teflon for the fuel sensor / return line and everything else. I could not source any carbon lined teflon, so used rubber on the fuel lines that pass volume. I used all steef fittings, except the sensor block, but all lines to it are secured by adle clamps near the alum fitting.
In addition to cost savings, you are able to make better fitting lines, especially in tight areas, by making your own. You can put one end on and lay it out exactly how you want it and then mark for the cut. Measuring for custom hoses is hard, because you can't always gauge how the hose will lay/bend, especially with teflon, as it is very rigid in rotation.
I used aluminum for everything behind the firewall, as well as brake lines. I just didn't see the benefit to braided hose for the brakes.
Larry
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N64LR - RV-6A / IO-320, Flying as of 8/2015
N11LR - RV-10, Flying as of 12/2019
Last edited by lr172 : 11-16-2019 at 10:44 PM.
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11-17-2019, 05:56 AM
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Join Date: Aug 2005
Location: Atlanta, GA
Posts: 4,219
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I made all the lines for my -6 using Earl's fittings and teflon lined stainless lines.
On the -10, I didn't feel like fooling with it and had Tom make the lines.
It all comes down to time vs money. Either way works.
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Kyle Boatright
Marietta, GA
2001 RV-6 N46KB
2019(?) RV-10
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11-17-2019, 06:15 AM
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Join Date: Jun 2005
Location: Cedar Park, TX
Posts: 3,156
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Don't forget that you'll also want to build a rig to do high (really high) pressure testing, safely, of your lines after fabrication.
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Scott Card
CQ Headset by Card Machine Works
CMW E-Lift
RV-9A N4822C flying 2200+hrs. / Cedar Park, TX
RV8 Building - fuselage / showplanes canopy (Done!)
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11-17-2019, 06:57 AM
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Join Date: Jul 2012
Location: n. wi
Posts: 778
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i did my own with no special tools and they all went together as advertised.. don't leak now. time will tell.
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Bob Noffs
n. wi.
dakota hawk/jab 3300 built and flying. sold 6/18.getting serious about the 12. in the hangar now as of 10/15/19
RV-12 kit as of 9/13
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11-17-2019, 07:00 AM
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been here awhile
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Join Date: Dec 2004
Location: North Alabama
Posts: 4,301
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I've rebuilt my 'homemade' hoses twice due to service time by using the same fittings. Only expense was new hose stock.
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